Amp?

[Dragon Slayer]

I have a two sets of Polk Audio DB6500 componet speakerd for front and rear door.. I had asked before about a amp for them and got a reply but I will be darn if I can find it.. So the question is.

 

Will this amp work fine????

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=16956

 

It is more in my price range than the other two that was posted for me to check out... I have found it for $175 on other places..

[Sierrawolf]

that amp will work for your audio set up. just make sure you run new wires to the speakers in the doors to get the right power. Are you putting a cap on your system ? To keep your lights from dimming ?

[Dragon Slayer]

that amp will work for your audio set up. just make sure you run new wires to the speakers in the doors to get the right power. Are you putting a cap on your system ? To keep your lights from dimming ?

 

 

 

Cap??????? WTF does that mean? I am not installing it so I have NO Idea... What Guage wire should I run to the speakers????

 

EDIT: Oh you mean one of these...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGATE-CAR-R...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

I was told with one amp I should be OK but IF or When I add a sub and another amp then I will have to have one..

[Wilsonmetro]

Hi Dragon Slayer, those are some ROCKIN speakers you bought!! Yes, that amp will definitely work (as will many amps).

 

Since those are component speakers, the tweeter and the woofer are powered by separate wires coming off the crossover. The stock speakers have only one pair of wires per door. If you're not putting your crossovers in your doors, that means you'll be one pair short since you'll need two pairs per door.

 

The solution is to either run another pair of wires to each, OR to find a way to place the crossovers inside the doors. That can be tricky, because doors are wet, slamming environments that can be hard on crossovers. But it can be done, which saves you a lot of hassle re-wiring. Factory wires to the doors are good for 100 watts RMS, although expensive speaker wire manufacturers will try to convince you otherwise. The only people who need to run thick-azz wires to their doors are the people building pods to hold 8" subwoofers, or multiple 6 /12" clusters.

 

Adding a "cap" means adding a capacitor. People running very high power typically need more current than a factory alternator can supply during the bass hits, so they have to place a large reinforcing capacitor next to their amplifier to keep the lights from dimming to the beat. That's in extreme situations, and usually in cars with weaker alternators. Trucks usually have stronger alternators, and most people don't use that much power. I wouldn't worry about caps unless you actually see your headlights dimming like disco lights.

[Dragon Slayer]

Hi Dragon Slayer, those are some ROCKIN speakers you bought!! Yes, that amp will definitely work (as will many amps).

 

Since those are component speakers, the tweeter and the woofer are powered by separate wires coming off the crossover. The stock speakers have only one pair of wires per door. If you're not putting your crossovers in your doors, that means you'll be one pair short since you'll need two pairs per door.

 

The solution is to either run another pair of wires to each, OR to find a way to place the crossovers inside the doors. That can be tricky, because doors are wet, slamming environments that can be hard on crossovers. But it can be done, which saves you a lot of hassle re-wiring. Factory wires to the doors are good for 100 watts RMS, although expensive speaker wire manufacturers will try to convince you otherwise. The only people who need to run thick-azz wires to their doors are the people building pods to hold 8" subwoofers, or multiple 6 /12" clusters.

 

Adding a "cap" means adding a capacitor. People running very high power typically need more current than a factory alternator can supply during the bass hits, so they have to place a large reinforcing capacitor next to their amplifier to keep the lights from dimming to the beat. That's in extreme situations, and usually in cars with weaker alternators. Trucks usually have stronger alternators, and most people don't use that much power. I wouldn't worry about caps unless you actually see your headlights dimming like disco lights.

 

Thanks for the info.. That is good news that I don't have to run new wire... The speakers are only 90rms and the amp is 70 so I should be good there...

That same Alpine amp at best buy is $309.... WIll it be a good amp for clarity???? (no distortion)

[Wilsonmetro]

The THD (distortion) is rated at 1% at full RMS power, which I would say is decent but not great. In comparison, cheapo off-brands have 14% distortion or more at full power, while more expensive amps tend to have distortion below 0.5%.

 

What's important to know is that companies are playing a shell game. The harder you push an amp near its limits, the more distortion you get. That amp will probably put out 50W RMS at 0.05% distortion, and 10 years ago they would have called it a 50W amp. But these days, to stay competitive, most companies are listing their power ratings in the distortion stage in order to compete with everyone else who's doing the same. Who wants a 50W amp for $300 when you can get a 70W amp for the same price?

 

I'd buy that Alpine, but not if I thought I'd be driving it at 70W. It's probably a great 50W amp. Your speakers are very efficient (92dB), so you won't need that much power. I'd say the amp is a good match. If you had inefficient speakers (88db), you'd need double the power just to play them at the same volume as the ones you chose.

[logsome]

Hey guys,

 

I'm thinking about going with a similar setup as Dragon Layer. I have a 2007 Sierra Crew Cab and wondering the best way to add the component speakers to these. Are you actually removing the factory tweeters up above the dash and putting the new tweeters there? Or doing something different?

 

Are there any tricks in getting the factory speakers out?

 

Also where are you guys mounting the amp? I'm planning to add the amp to the factory deck to keep steer wheel controls and XM.

 

You guys using the factory deck as well?

 

Thanks

 

 

The THD (distortion) is rated at 1% at full RMS power, which I would say is decent but not great. In comparison, cheapo off-brands have 14% distortion or more at full power, while more expensive amps tend to have distortion below 0.5%.

 

What's important to know is that companies are playing a shell game. The harder you push an amp near its limits, the more distortion you get. That amp will probably put out 50W RMS at 0.05% distortion, and 10 years ago they would have called it a 50W amp. But these days, to stay competitive, most companies are listing their power ratings in the distortion stage in order to compete with everyone else who's doing the same. Who wants a 50W amp for $300 when you can get a 70W amp for the same price?

 

I'd buy that Alpine, but not if I thought I'd be driving it at 70W. It's probably a great 50W amp. Your speakers are very efficient (92dB), so you won't need that much power. I'd say the amp is a good match. If you had inefficient speakers (88db), you'd need double the power just to play them at the same volume as the ones you chose.

[Dragon Slayer]

I am changing my deck out to a aftermarket. I still have to get mine installed. I have everything to do it just the guy that is going to install it for me does not have the time just yet.. SO it will ba about another week or so before I get it put in.......

 

 

 

 

Hey guys,

 

I'm thinking about going with a similar setup as Dragon Layer. I have a 2007 Sierra Crew Cab and wondering the best way to add the component speakers to these. Are you actually removing the factory tweeters up above the dash and putting the new tweeters there? Or doing something different?

 

Are there any tricks in getting the factory speakers out?

 

Also where are you guys mounting the amp? I'm planning to add the amp to the factory deck to keep steer wheel controls and XM.

 

You guys using the factory deck as well?

 

Thanks

 

 

The THD (distortion) is rated at 1% at full RMS power, which I would say is decent but not great. In comparison, cheapo off-brands have 14% distortion or more at full power, while more expensive amps tend to have distortion below 0.5%.

 

What's important to know is that companies are playing a shell game. The harder you push an amp near its limits, the more distortion you get. That amp will probably put out 50W RMS at 0.05% distortion, and 10 years ago they would have called it a 50W amp. But these days, to stay competitive, most companies are listing their power ratings in the distortion stage in order to compete with everyone else who's doing the same. Who wants a 50W amp for $300 when you can get a 70W amp for the same price?

 

I'd buy that Alpine, but not if I thought I'd be driving it at 70W. It's probably a great 50W amp. Your speakers are very efficient (92dB), so you won't need that much power. I'd say the amp is a good match. If you had inefficient speakers (88db), you'd need double the power just to play them at the same volume as the ones you chose.

 

[Dyabolical]

I am gonna repost what i put in another thread....eventually i am gonna do a write up on car audio misconceptions and maybe get it stickied to this sub forum. So here we go:

 

As far as amping your reference speakers, i would recommend Diamond, Alpine, Kicker, JBL, Arc, Precision Power (PPI) Elemental Designs, Rockford Fosgate, Profile (budget amps, but still good)....possibly a Pheonix Gold Xenon series if you can find one. As far as powering it all, just go straight for the kill and pick up a kicker 1/0 hyperflex kit. Comes with 1/0, 4awg, distrobution blocks, and fuseblocks with fuse. Ebay is where you should get it.

 

Zapco amps are insane on sound quality, however they are ultra high end and will cost a small fortune.

 

Edit:

Forgot to add this. Capacitors are absolutely worthless. Caps do nothing to stop headlight dimming. The easiest and best way to fix dimming is what is called the "Big 3 Upgrade." It is simply upgrading the very small stock grounding system to something that is a little better suited. Basically the big 3 is:

 

1. Engine block to chassis ground

2. chassis to battery (neg) ground

3. alternator to battery (pos) hot, this needs to be fused.

 

Think of it this way. Your vehicle's ground system was designed to hold voltage and amperage on just stock items with no aftermarket equipment. In order to cut production costs, the manufacturer will use the smallest possible ground they can safely get away with. By adding aftermarket equipment, your stock ground is no longer sufficient to carry current to supply all electrical items. So by upgrading the grounds to a more reasonable size, you provide a more suitable circuit for the current to pass through. I recommend a MINIMUM of 4 guage, with 1/0 being best. The big 3 is a good upgrade for any vehicle however, stereo or not. And it should be a MUST for anyone using any type of power assisted trailer braking or winching. The lower the resistance, the less stress on your electrical components.

 

If you have any questions on it, be sure to PM me. I have been into car audio for many a year now, and have been an IASCA/MECA/USACI competitor for a few seasons.

[Wingnut]

I am gonna repost what i put in another thread....eventually i am gonna do a write up on car audio misconceptions and maybe get it stickied to this sub forum. So here we go:

 

As far as amping your reference speakers, i would recommend Diamond, Alpine, Kicker, JBL, Arc, Precision Power (PPI) Elemental Designs, Rockford Fosgate, Profile (budget amps, but still good)....possibly a Pheonix Gold Xenon series if you can find one. As far as powering it all, just go straight for the kill and pick up a kicker 1/0 hyperflex kit. Comes with 1/0, 4awg, distrobution blocks, and fuseblocks with fuse. Ebay is where you should get it.

 

Zapco amps are insane on sound quality, however they are ultra high end and will cost a small fortune.

 

Edit:

Forgot to add this. Capacitors are absolutely worthless. Caps do nothing to stop headlight dimming. The easiest and best way to fix dimming is what is called the "Big 3 Upgrade." It is simply upgrading the very small stock grounding system to something that is a little better suited. Basically the big 3 is:

 

1. Engine block to chassis ground

2. chassis to battery (neg) ground

3. alternator to battery (pos) hot, this needs to be fused.

 

Think of it this way. Your vehicle's ground system was designed to hold voltage and amperage on just stock items with no aftermarket equipment. In order to cut production costs, the manufacturer will use the smallest possible ground they can safely get away with. By adding aftermarket equipment, your stock ground is no longer sufficient to carry current to supply all electrical items. So by upgrading the grounds to a more reasonable size, you provide a more suitable circuit for the current to pass through. I recommend a MINIMUM of 4 guage, with 1/0 being best. The big 3 is a good upgrade for any vehicle however, stereo or not. And it should be a MUST for anyone using any type of power assisted trailer braking or winching. The lower the resistance, the less stress on your electrical components.

 

If you have any questions on it, be sure to PM me. I have been into car audio for many a year now, and have been an IASCA/MECA/USACI competitor for a few seasons.

 

Yer damn skippy upgrade the "big 3"...That helps the whole truck, not just the audio system.

 

And I've got a new fave as far as amps go that's not on your list there....Audison. Bad.freakin.a$$. Small, efficient, COOL...But on the pricey side.

[Dyabolical]

I am gonna repost what i put in another thread....eventually i am gonna do a write up on car audio misconceptions and maybe get it stickied to this sub forum. So here we go:

 

As far as amping your reference speakers, i would recommend Diamond, Alpine, Kicker, JBL, Arc, Precision Power (PPI) Elemental Designs, Rockford Fosgate, Profile (budget amps, but still good)....possibly a Pheonix Gold Xenon series if you can find one. As far as powering it all, just go straight for the kill and pick up a kicker 1/0 hyperflex kit. Comes with 1/0, 4awg, distrobution blocks, and fuseblocks with fuse. Ebay is where you should get it.

 

Zapco amps are insane on sound quality, however they are ultra high end and will cost a small fortune.

 

Edit:

Forgot to add this. Capacitors are absolutely worthless. Caps do nothing to stop headlight dimming. The easiest and best way to fix dimming is what is called the "Big 3 Upgrade." It is simply upgrading the very small stock grounding system to something that is a little better suited. Basically the big 3 is:

 

1. Engine block to chassis ground

2. chassis to battery (neg) ground

3. alternator to battery (pos) hot, this needs to be fused.

 

Think of it this way. Your vehicle's ground system was designed to hold voltage and amperage on just stock items with no aftermarket equipment. In order to cut production costs, the manufacturer will use the smallest possible ground they can safely get away with. By adding aftermarket equipment, your stock ground is no longer sufficient to carry current to supply all electrical items. So by upgrading the grounds to a more reasonable size, you provide a more suitable circuit for the current to pass through. I recommend a MINIMUM of 4 guage, with 1/0 being best. The big 3 is a good upgrade for any vehicle however, stereo or not. And it should be a MUST for anyone using any type of power assisted trailer braking or winching. The lower the resistance, the less stress on your electrical components.

 

If you have any questions on it, be sure to PM me. I have been into car audio for many a year now, and have been an IASCA/MECA/USACI competitor for a few seasons.

 

Yer d**n skippy upgrade the "big 3"...That helps the whole truck, not just the audio system.

 

And I've got a new fave as far as amps go that's not on your list there....Audison. Bad.freakin.a$$. Small, efficient, COOL...But on the pricey side.

 

 

Audison is very good. There are many many many great amp brands out there. But there are also alot of rip off brands.

 

Just take a look at Ebay...brands like Pyle and Lanzar and such....4000 watt amp for $150? Suuuuure. Your gonna be lucky if that amp puts out 400 watts.

 

Vast majority of those bargain bin flee market brands are made by the same company in the same build house. All are crap.