Jump to content

Noisy Roof!

04z71steve

Recommended Posts

04z71steve Enthusiast

04z71steve

Posted
Posted

Well its just like the title says... i've been doing allot of highway driving agian.. back to school :rolleyes:, and its been windy up here in chicago.. go figure, but when i'm on the highway doin 75-80 even when i'm goin slower my roof like POPS... and it aggrivates me to no end... why is the roof on this truck not like a ridgid roof? one that wont flex cuz of the wind... is there anything i can do to get it to stop popping???

 

thanks in advance :crackup:

 

steve :rollin:

04z71steve Enthusiast

04z71steve

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Do you have a bug deflector mounted on your hood?

 

no... its done it since the day i bought it.. when the winds bad... my roof pops like its flexing like crazy, and it can't be good for the paint... i can't wait for little spider cracks to start forming..

GMTRUCKTECH Enthusiast

GMTRUCKTECH

Posted
Posted

HERE YOU GO!

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Subject: Tiny Rattle Noise From Roof At Highway Speeds - keywords body bow canning headliner metal sheet speed tin wind #PIT3067C - (11/08/2006)

 

 

 

Models: 2003-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic

 

2003-2007 GMC Sierra Classic

 

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

This PI is being updated to add 2007 models. Please discard PIT3067B.

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

 

Condition/Concern:

Owners may comment on a tinny rattle type noise from the roof at highway speeds. This noise normally occurs if the vehicle is equipped with a "Topper/Cap/Camper Shell" that is higher than the roof line of the truck or when towing a trailer.

 

Recommendation/Instructions:

To correct this concern, use an expandable (minimal expansion, such as, 3M 04320, Kent P10630 or equivalent) foam between the roof cross bow and roof sheet metal. Then install four 10" x 10" sound dampener pads to the under side of the roof sheet metal.

 

One supplier of sound dampener pads is Kent Automotive at 1-888-YES-KENT. Kent part number for 10" x 10" pads is P32947 or equivalent, quantity 10.

 

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...