Jump to content

G80 Rear End 1996 K1500


hibrad2005

Recommended Posts

Posted

OK, here goes, this is kinda a long and complex issue. OK, so I have a 1996 K1500 With a 350 V8, auto trans, and a G80 rear Differential, 3.73 Ratio, about 165K miles. My problem is that when I put the truck in reverse, It kicks really hard, so hard the bed jiggles, and on rare occasions (5 times in the month I have owned it) it makes a horiffic grinding noise, like someone that doesnt know how to shift a manual. Now, It doesnt kick first thing after sitting for 8+ hours (cold fluid) But it does any other time, Also, it has absolutely NO problems at all in Forward gears. I know its in the rear-end, because when it pulls its grinding stunt, the driveline is spinning (verified by someone outside the vehicle while it was doing and they were looking underneath) Secondly, the RPM and speedo go up rapidly when its doing this grinding. (at which point I have to put it in neutral, wait for the RPM to go to idle and the speedo to go to 0, then put it in reverse, and it will just kick hard, like "normal")

 

A mechanic told me that he thought the spider gears had missing teeth, but I asked, why would reverse, when warm be the only time this happens. They recommended a rearend rebuild for $1000, not only am I poor, but that sucks for a vehicle I havent had for more than a month, and since theres no lemon law here Im stuck with it. I havent opened the diff yet to inspect it, its been too cold and I dont have a lift, and id rather not do it while its on the ground, kinda cramped. I have a mechanic friend who can take a look after the 3rd of January, and Im sure ill be ok till then, but Im at a loss, no-one seems to know what this gremlin is. Reverse only hell! AHHH! OH and as a side note, the U-joints have no noticeable play. So they check out. Im afraid something is going to break though and Ill be stuck, so Ideas? Please?!? :thumbs:

Posted

Sounds like you really need to open the diff and take a look. When you put it in reverse, is the driveshaft spinning, but the truck doesnt' move? If that's the case then you definitely need something in there replaced. $1000 is insane though. Just get an axle from a junkyard and swap 'em out. That's a very common axle, so it shouldn't be hard to find a replacement.

Posted

Axle, I called all my local Junk Yards, and they have 1, from a 98, and they want $500 for it, with an exchange, my problem is, I dont have the tools or the know how to get it swapped and the mechanics I talked to want $450 to do a swap, so that puts me d**n near close to the rebuild. I think I'm being screwed here.... thoughts?

Posted

I would stop by your local Napa and pick up a new differential gasket and 3 quarts of gear oil. Pull the cover and check everything out.

 

Is the noise coming from the rear end or from right under the truck?

Posted

I agree you need to get eyes on the problem to confirm what's going on first. Is the junkyard axle a rebuilt unit? Why do they need your old one?

As for the actual swap, the hardest part is just getting the U-bolts off. If you have a basic set of tools, a decent jack and an impact wrench you should be able to do the swap. Throw in a buddy and a six-pack and you'll be done in a few hours tops.

After you get the cover off and confirm any carnage, measure the distance between the spring mounts and the full width of the axle (flange to flange). Make sure the new one is the same size there.

Do you have a frame and axle shop anywhere nearby? For $1000 you should be able to get a good shop to install a decent locker and new gears. I certainly wouldn't pay that kind of money for a junkyard one!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...