Jump to content

Leveling My 08swb Chevy

slammed08swb

Recommended Posts

slammed08swb Enthusiast

slammed08swb

Posted
Posted

Whats up guys my first post here, I just bought me a new silverado this past weekend. (08 granite blue swb 5.3/ 3.73's) Love the truck but it sits kinda goofy so I ordered some belltech drop shackles for the rear. They are only 2" and I dont think they are going to bring it in completely level. I was reading the other day about something I could remove to give me an extra inch? Does anybody know what this might be? I think they said something about changing the U bolts if this was done though? I also noticed that the factory shackle bolts look like they are going to be a pain to remove so I just thought about cuttin those babys out and replacing them with shorter bolts and on reinstallation just flippin the bolts the other way so it will be easier to work on next time. I really dont see how this could hurt anything, but if anybody thinks otherwise please let me know what you think. Sorry to ramble guys any input from ya would be great.

 

Preston

Zembonez Senior Enthusiast

Zembonez

Posted
Posted

A bunch has been written about these items if you search.

 

For quickie reference... You'll need to remove the bed bolts and prop up the rear of the bed to pull the shackles. Leave the front two tight so that the bed alignment stays put. Much easier that way. You can also remove the factory 1 inch block under the leafs springs. Not sure if this requires new U bolts or not.

 

Welcome to the site.

y2kz71 Enthusiast

y2kz71

Posted
Posted

I never have had to jack-up the bed but you can do it that way. I allways just remove the lower bolt, then jack up the springs till the top bolt clears the frame then slide it out....simple. Also if you have a trailer hitch, dont remove it completely. Just remove the frame bolts, then loosen the bumper bolts till it pivots down enough to give clearance to remove lower shackle bolts...if you go that route. There is a bed seam that hangs down about 1" that you will have to bend/cut so your new longer shackles have the clearance. If you look under the truck directly above the shackle you will see it.

 

If you look in this picture, you will see a block under the leaf springs. This is the other item that you can remove. It measures approx 1.25". The u-bolts have just enough threads to do this, or you can but shorter u-bolts or some from a 2006 Silverado.

 

000_0009.jpg

 

Heres some pics of my truck when I had the shackles and block removed.

 

truck5.jpg

 

truck4.jpg

Bostonsfavson Senior Enthusiast

Bostonsfavson

Posted
Posted

Welcome to the site Preston; good looking truck! If you look in the Tech Wiki Mike just posted a "how to" guide on installing drop shackles. The only thing is that his is a GMT800 truck, as opposed to your GMT900, so I'm not sure if his guide will apply. Good luck!

chitownpete Enthusiast

chitownpete

Posted
Posted

Is there any possible downside to removing the blocks? Is it bad to let the springs just sit on the perch formerly occupied by the spacer? 1" would be perfect especially since I use my truck like a car 98% of the time.

y2kz71 Enthusiast

y2kz71

Posted
Posted
Is there any possible downside to removing the blocks? Is it bad to let the springs just sit on the perch formerly occupied by the spacer? 1" would be perfect especially since I use my truck like a car 98% of the time.

 

No problem without the blocks at all. In fact none of the 2wd trucks came with blocks until this new 2007 GMT900. I dont know why they put those on our trucks anyway. The leaf spring has a centerpin that fits down in a hole in the spring perch thats welded on the diff so it sits in place in the correct spot.

Zembonez Senior Enthusiast

Zembonez

Posted
Posted
I never have had to jack-up the bed but you can do it that way. I allways just remove the lower bolt, then jack up the springs till the top bolt clears the frame then slide it out....simple. Also if you have a trailer hitch, dont remove it completely. Just remove the frame bolts, then loosen the bumper bolts till it pivots down enough to give clearance to remove lower shackle bolts...if you go that route. There is a bed seam that hangs down about 1" that you will have to bend/cut so your new longer shackles have the clearance. If you look under the truck directly above the shackle you will see it.

If you lift the bed to remove the upper bolt, no modification to the bed seam is necessary. If you bend the bed seam, the bolt will come out without unbolting the bed. Either method will certainly work. I just didn't want to modify the bed. The new shackles clear it by at least 1/2 inch.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Gas Prices

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Chuck FB
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • Atlas
      Gas Prices

      By Atlas · Posted

      $5.19 for regular...
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • BlueV8
      AFM Disabler Question

      By BlueV8 · Posted

      A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...