Jump to content

Need Help With Tire Size And Selection


Recommended Posts

Posted

SO anyway I just put the 2" leveling kit on the rig and I love it, there is still a little bit of rake, about 1" front to back but its miles better than stock. Anyway the extra clearance in the front along with my sort of dislike for the stock duelers that came on my z71 has left me thinking about the possibility of some new rubber. I can't remember what the stock tire size is, but I know I'm rolling on 18" wheels, I'm thinking I want to be some 17"s in the future but for now I'm thinking some new rubber on the stock wheels would be a good idea. Anyway I'm not super sure what will fit so I'm wondering which of you guys have upgraded and what too, so I know what will fit under my truck, I'm going with the bf goodrich all-terrain T/A KO, lovely tires, had them on a few other trucks and can't say enough good about em. Thanks for any help guys.

Posted
SO anyway I just put the 2" leveling kit on the rig and I love it, there is still a little bit of rake, about 1" front to back but its miles better than stock. Anyway the extra clearance in the front along with my sort of dislike for the stock duelers that came on my z71 has left me thinking about the possibility of some new rubber. I can't remember what the stock tire size is, but I know I'm rolling on 18" wheels, I'm thinking I want to be some 17"s in the future but for now I'm thinking some new rubber on the stock wheels would be a good idea. Anyway I'm not super sure what will fit so I'm wondering which of you guys have upgraded and what too, so I know what will fit under my truck, I'm going with the bf goodrich all-terrain T/A KO, lovely tires, had them on a few other trucks and can't say enough good about em. Thanks for any help guys.

 

I just installed a 2" leveling kit also which is said to clear 285/70/17 =32.71. Well according to my calculations you should be good for 285/65/18 which is made by BFG. Dont hold to size fitting I havent installed bigger tires yet.

Posted

Your tires are 265/65/18 which are allready 31.5 tall. You could easily fit 285/65/18 (32.5"), probably could have fit those without the leveling kit. If It were me...I would go with the 305/65/18 which are 2" taller than your stock tires at 33.6" tall.

Posted

Wow 33's huh I had no idea those would fit it looks like theres so little room. I'm gonna have to ask the tire guy and see what kind of a deal I can get. Any of you guys with nbs trucks runnin 33's without a lift just a leveling kit?

Posted

I did the same thing with the leveling kit. Im going to stuff some 33x12.5s in there. Depends on how wide of a rim you go. If its the stock 18's you should be alright but something like a 10" wide rim would do some destruction to that front valence. I know on the older trucks like mine there might be a little more room for tire clearence becauase on the 07 and 08's that large front bumper may make for alittle less room just like on the older avalanches. The low front bumper (which you arent going to want to trim) might squeeze the amount of space you got. My $.02

Posted
SO anyway I just put the 2" leveling kit on the rig and I love it, there is still a little bit of rake, about 1" front to back but its miles better than stock. Anyway the extra clearance in the front along with my sort of dislike for the stock duelers that came on my z71 has left me thinking about the possibility of some new rubber. I can't remember what the stock tire size is, but I know I'm rolling on 18" wheels, I'm thinking I want to be some 17"s in the future but for now I'm thinking some new rubber on the stock wheels would be a good idea. Anyway I'm not super sure what will fit so I'm wondering which of you guys have upgraded and what too, so I know what will fit under my truck, I'm going with the bf goodrich all-terrain T/A KO, lovely tires, had them on a few other trucks and can't say enough good about em. Thanks for any help guys.

 

I just installed a 2" leveling kit also which is said to clear 285/70/17 =32.71. Well according to my calculations you should be good for 285/65/18 which is made by BFG. Dont hold to size fitting I havent installed bigger tires yet.

 

 

I've got 285/60/18's on my stock 2wd with no rubbing.

Posted

Which leveling kits did you guys use? I looked at strut spacers, but opted not to go that way. I'm thinking about the Rancho quick lift kit. Any thoughts?

Posted
These are 30" with the leveling kit. You could go maybe 31" with out rubbin.

2663605_10_full.jpg

 

I think you mean that your tires are already 33's (285's)? And he might be able to go to 35's?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...