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Posted

I just noticed that my truck has rust spots at the bottom of my driver doors from salt on the roads here. The truck is brand new, shouldn't it take longer than this for rust spots to appear on the paint from salt???

 

It's around 0 Fahrenheit here right now, but I'm going to go to a car wash and blast the salt off my truck today... :D

Posted
I just noticed that my truck has rust spots at the bottom of my driver doors from salt on the roads here. The truck is brand new, shouldn't it take longer than this for rust spots to appear on the paint from salt???

 

It's around 0 Fahrenheit here right now, but I'm going to go to a car wash and blast the salt off my truck today... :D

 

 

Take some pictures. I'd be pissed too. I'd take it in to the dealer.

Posted
I just noticed that my truck has rust spots at the bottom of my driver doors from salt on the roads here. The truck is brand new, shouldn't it take longer than this for rust spots to appear on the paint from salt???

 

It's around 0 Fahrenheit here right now, but I'm going to go to a car wash and blast the salt off my truck today... :D

 

 

Take some pictures. I'd be pissed too. I'd take it in to the dealer.

 

 

Tried going to the car wash, they have a sign on the entrance saying "closed for water line repair"... arrggh.

Posted

I bought a used 04 that had the same problem. I was told that it was common as the salty water gets inside the doors and doesn't all drain out and rusts from the inside. Warranty will cover the repair but it's ridiculous that this happens especially for several years without being remedied. I had mine repaired and spray it off after any driving in salt. I noticed a friends Dodge rusting in the same area. Supposed to be common on them behind the rubber strip at the bottom.

 

Good Luck,

Rob

Posted
The truck is brand new, shouldn't it take longer than this for rust spots to appear on the paint from salt???

 

Yes, yes it should. I'm seeing rust forming on my 07 wheels. I talked to my dealer today -- my suggestion would be to start griping to someone higher up on the GM totem pole.

Posted

I know on my white truck i have rust spots all down the side i called the dealer on it and they said they would polish it once before 12000 miles. It is something that just happens they say. Debris from brakes sticks to it then starts to rust.

Posted

I emailed my dealer this afternoon, and got a response a little while ago. He said that it's metal flakes from the snowplow blades that stick to the sides of the truck. He says that the rust is only on the surface (which I verified) and that a clay bar will remove them. I'm going to take it there to let them take a look at it, but I'm pretty sure he's right. I didn't notice it on previous vehicles I owned, but they were both dark coloured and this truck is white.

Posted

Yeah, I am up in Michigan and we salt roads here. All along the bottom of truck there are little rust spots. Come spring time im gonna take it and have it clayed and im sure that will take care of it. 2007 NBS WT

Posted

Oil undercoating.

 

Legal in my state. Done by professionals.

 

$60.00

 

I do it each year. They drill holes in cavities, spray, then black round plastic plugs. All under truck is sprayed. It works. It is messy though. And it takes weeks before the dripping stops. So if you have a fancy driveway or garage, put something under truck. Or park on dirt.

 

Below from a website:

 

"Sep 22, 2007

 

Q: Is aftermarket oil rustproofing needed on vehicles? Does it really work?

 

A: Here's my strictly personal take on the issue:

 

Several auto makers claim additional rustproofing is unnecessary – yet their own dealers often promote it.

 

It's cheap, time-proven protection on a major investment.

 

Contrary to what some carefully worded manuals might seem to say, professional aftermarket treatments won't void your warranty (various major auto makers confirm this).

 

In fact, many dealerships utilize reputable aftermarket rustproofers to apply the packages they sell.

 

The opportunities for corrosion on vehicles are endless, especially in hidden areas, such as inside doors, wheel wells or undercarriage.

 

Water will infiltrate scratches, welds or any exposed metal surface and do its dirty work.

 

Light-oil rustproofing sprays creep into crevices to provide a water-displacing barrier that prevents rust from getting a foothold on your car, truck or van.

 

Most major rustproofing chains also offer a thicker underbody oil coating.

 

My vehicles are treated annually by a Rust Check outlet in Mississauga. I can attest that the no-drip underbody formula used never dries out, spreads to re-cover bare areas if scratched and visibly repels water.

 

Many fleet managers are convinced that rustproofing is a worthwhile investment, according to one Rust Check franchisee. After 18 years in business, he says he counts municipal hydro, fire and works department fleets – including salt-spreader trucks – among his regular customers."

 

Many European forums mention this product: www.waxoyl-usa.com

I have no idea what it is or how good it is. But reading up on vehicle rust on some European boards, this process or ones like it are quite common.

 

And note: I live in rust belt and my 1990 Chevrolet 1500 has zero rust. It never ceases to amaze me that someone will spend between $20,000.00 and 50,000.00 on a truck and not do something to prevent rust. At least up north. I just don't understand why.

 

eBay012.jpg

Posted
Yeah, I am up in Michigan and we salt roads here. All along the bottom of truck there are little rust spots. Come spring time im gonna take it and have it clayed and im sure that will take care of it. 2007 NBS WT

 

Where are you at in Michigan? I'm from Cadillac.

Anyways, on a white truck the little flakes of rust will show up ALL the time. Don't worry, they're likely surface rust and will clean off with a little elbow grease. Last summer I clay-barred the entire truck and it looked great....until this winter, all the little orange spots are back.

 

Looks like a viscious cycle of clay-barring, looking good, salt, rust, repeat

good luck

Posted
Someone please elaborate on the clay bar process. I have no idea how this works.

 

We had to have this done where I work when a cullet hopper got a hole in it and covered everyones car during summer. Cullet is ground up glass and the dust is very fine but very abrasive and stuck to the clearcoat like glue.

 

Anyway, a clay bar is used and rolled across the car and the metal or glass or whatever sticks to the clay and is removed from the car. Then a good wash and wax and all is well.

 

Rob

Posted

So to get rid of it the clay bar will work. But what about preventing it?? Anyone have any ideas on that? Would some different brake material on the truck help? Waxing or washing more often help? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

Pete

Posted
Someone please elaborate on the clay bar process. I have no idea how this works.

 

 

I detail cars on the side... so I have clayed many. It is around a 1-3 hour process depending on how bad you need it. Anyways... go to your local autozone, O-Reiley's, Walmart, etc. Buy a clay kit. It usually comes with a actual clay bar and lube (spray). You spray the lube on your nicely washed vehicle in one spot at a time and rub the clay bar. If your clearcoat is pretty icky, you will even hear and feel the particles rubbing off. After you have done the whole car, I usually then give it a good paste wax from there. Remember, do NOT drop your clay bar. It will gather up dirt which will leave fine scratches in your paint. Switch sides when one side is dirty so you don't leave fine scratches on your truck. When you are done with that, you should be able to gently rub your fingernails through smooth paint without feeling a flaw. Hopefully this helps!

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