Running Abit Hot!

[L29er]

so after many modifications, my truck runs warmer, 10-20f normally above were it used too, and nowere can i get a thermostat other than the factory spec 180 (when i look up according to vehicle), i`ve thought of getting one and drilling a small hole in it but i`m really against going this route, so it seemed to get hotter when i did the electric water pump and electric fan setup, i have done modifications to the fans, but other than forcing them to run non stop i can`t keep her cool enough and the summer heat isn`t even here yet, was wondering if the 40 gpm pump is too fast and the coolant is not effectivley cooling? i dunno, i thought that would be good, especially at an idle not moving (fans on) OH and my rad is clean as could be, i run bug screen to keep crap out, have got in there and look through everything and it looks clear, maybe the fans don`t move enough air? they claim to move 6000cfm, is this less than factory?

 

i have a HD 98 K2500 w 7.4l, electric h2o pump, electric fans, bosch injectors, k&n intake, summit large bore cai airflow sensor, oversize throttle body, full length headers, no cats and 4" dynomax ultra-flow welded race muffler and mandrel bent tailpipe, westers custom 91 performance tune. engine is internally stock at this point,

 

thanks for any assistance,...

[pennzoil29]

so after many modifications, my truck runs warmer, 10-20f normally above were it used too, and nowere can i get a thermostat other than the factory spec 180 (when i look up according to vehicle), i`ve thought of getting one and drilling a small hole in it but i`m really against going this route, so it seemed to get hotter when i did the electric water pump and electric fan setup, i have done modifications to the fans, but other than forcing them to run non stop i can`t keep her cool enough and the summer heat isn`t even here yet, was wondering if the 40 gpm pump is too fast and the coolant is not effectivley cooling? i dunno, i thought that would be good, especially at an idle not moving (fans on) OH and my rad is clean as could be, i run bug screen to keep crap out, have got in there and look through everything and it looks clear, maybe the fans don`t move enough air? they claim to move 6000cfm, is this less than factory?

 

i have a HD 98 K2500 w 7.4l, electric h2o pump, electric fans, bosch injectors, k&n intake, summit large bore cai airflow sensor, oversize throttle body, full length headers, no cats and 4" dynomax ultra-flow welded race muffler and mandrel bent tailpipe, westers custom 91 performance tune. engine is internally stock at this point,

 

thanks for any assistance,...

I'm not trying to insult your intelligance, but did you install the fans the correct way? I had a friend install some backwards, and his truck ran hotter.

[L29er]

they are a drop in unit from perma-cool, i ensured they pulled when i installed it, but hard to screw up the wiring red to power, black to ground, no other wires, easy install, they are adjustable and i set them to come on as soon as possible temp wise.

[Texsrt4]

here is something to think about. all your thermostat does is open and close water flow through the motor. if it is opening on time but the motor is getting hot, its not the thermostat thats the problem. how many miles do you have on your coolant? radiator in good shape? fans flowing right? basically something else is the problem.

 

besides on a fuel injected motor, you dont want the coolant temp below 180, computer wont go into closed loop and work properly if coolant temps arnt up to operating temps

[L29er]

here is something to think about. all your thermostat does is open and close water flow through the motor. if it is opening on time but the motor is getting hot, its not the thermostat thats the problem. how many miles do you have on your coolant? radiator in good shape? fans flowing right? basically something else is the problem.

 

besides on a fuel injected motor, you dont want the coolant temp below 180, computer wont go into closed loop and work properly if coolant temps arnt up to operating temps

 

 

Well there is about 1500 miles on coolant (pump and fans too), rad has no blockages (externally anyways) fans have now been triple-quadruple checked (for rotation). the entire truck only has just under 60k miles, i just today relocated the temp probe for the fan module and it seemed to help abit, they run more often but temps around town didn`t get to high. my truck reads in celsius it can get up to 90c or 194 f (with a/c on and outside temps around 25c or 77f stop and go driving) so its not radically warm, just warmer than it used to be with the ole wagon wheel fan from the factory, i might be over worrying this, maybe just a cooling system flush and a new thermostat (cause they are cheap) will help,... dunno

[Texsrt4]

what kind of fans are you running? how much cfm?

[L29er]

perma-cool dual 14 blades, claimed 6000cfm, which when i was lookin into fans flexalites version flowed 5000cfm, so i thought these would be better.... the are activated by a temp probe installed into rad fins, has an adjustable on temp, ive got it set to come on at as cool a temp as possible....

[hubbycap]

You sure about the accuracy of the temp reading? Have you gotten a second opinion on the thermometer?

[Texsrt4]

perma-cool dual 14 blades, claimed 6000cfm, which when i was lookin into fans flexalites version flowed 5000cfm, so i thought these would be better.... the are activated by a temp probe installed into rad fins, has an adjustable on temp, ive got it set to come on at as cool a temp as possible....

 

 

6000cfm??? i call bull on that one. thats more than dyno fan cfm flow...especially with the lack of shroud, there is just no way that that fan is flowing near that number. my guess, the fan simply doesnt flow enough. easy to prove. hit the freeway and watch your temps. if they stabilize around where your stat is opening your fans suck. if it keeps heating up beyond that, your stat is bad or radiator flow/coolant issues

[ZZ327]

temp sounds good to me, thats what My 05 runs stock. You should be able to go about anywhere and get a colder Tstat, Ive done it pleny of times.

I would take away the bug screen to see what happens, that could be blocking air.

[Zembonez]

As I read through this, it keeps sounding like a sticking thermostat. I fought this problem on my Blazer (even bought a Modine radiator) because it suddenly started running warmer a few weeks after I did a water pump and thermostat replacement. After banging my head against the wall for a month or two, I replaced the NEW thermostat with another new one and the problem went away.

[Texsrt4]

you can always pull the thermostat out and throw it in a pot of water with a thermometer in it. throw it on the stove. when the thermostat opens (which you will be able to see) throw the thermometer in the water and see if its opening at the right temp or not

[L29er]

thermostat is probly the easiest thing to do/try and its probly cheapest, i`m not gonna remove the bug screen, the bugs we get here could crack a windsheild!! haha, there is something weird about the 454 went to many parts stores, dealer, internet, nothing but 180 available, dunno if they are the same as an other engine haven`t looked at it yet, it is the original t-stat, it coul be gettin sticky, i`ll try to shoot the temps with my raytek and see if its reading close to the dash gauge

[Texsrt4]

should be the same as the small block

[L29er]

i`ll go to a parts store tommorow if i have time and get them to pull a 350 and 454 stat of the shelf and check them together, think they`ll have a 170f stat?, don`t wanna create any "too cool" issue withe the engine and a 160 stat, guess i`ll find out...