Reverse Squeak Squeak Squeak

[Truckin2003]

alright guys/gals, im in need for a little assistance.

 

So yesterday morning im backing out of garage and i hear a squeak squeak squeak coming from under my truck. Its very noticeable and loud.

 

what the heck could be causing this. It only happens in reverse and never driving forward. Ive never heard of a u-joint doing this. the u-joint doesn't feel loose or clunk when putting it in gear.

 

The only thing i can think of that may have caused a problem would be driving through some water. we've had alot of rain here in the past couple of weeks.

 

Could it still be a u-joint? what about the rear end. any help would be appreciated.

 

 

 

 

edit: forgot to add this is on my 2005 Silverado 1/2 ton. its ext cab, long bed, 4X4

[Truckin2003]

So nobody's got any ideas????

[VMax2007]

U-joint.

 

My 2000 squeeked when backing only, no clunking either. I was surprised and doubted the tech. But he showed me my u-joint after removal and 3 of the 4 bearings were completely gone (needles were gone) and the 4th one was rusted too.

[Woodcutter]

+1 on the U-joint.

[2000DV4.8]

U-joint. Mine was BAAAD, and it only made noise when moving forward, never made a peep in reverse. Get under the truck, and feel for any slop in the u-joints, you usually can't feel it from inside the truck.

[cammiller]

just because it does not clunk, does not mean it is not seized. I have found more u-joints by backing the truck out of my bay than any other time.

[Truckin2003]

well that was my first suspicion. I appreciate the help guys. which one is more likely to fail? the front or rear u-joint of the rear driveshaft that is?

[Woodcutter]

well that was my first suspicion. I appreciate the help guys. which one is more likely to fail? the front or rear u-joint of the rear driveshaft that is?

 

Don't know but you should replace both of 'em while you're at it. Most auto parts stores sell both OE replacements as well as heavy-duty replacements. I suggest buying the HD for the extra measure of durability. The hardest part if you're doing them yourself is pressing the old, factory-sealed u-joints out of the driveshaft yokes. I bent a bench vise before attempting this, even after the joints were heated with a propane torch to melt the injected plastic. Now I just pull the shaft and take everything to a garage where they can press out the old/press in the new in short order.

 

Good luck.

[pennzoil29]

+1 on the u-joint.

[cerbomark]

rear drum brakes sometimes make that noise when backing up after the brake dust builds up in the drum. Clean them out and see.

[VMax2007]

just because it does not clunk, does not mean it is not seized. I have found more u-joints by backing the truck out of my bay than any other time.

 

That's exactly when my tech discovered mine. I was there getting my tailgate strapes replaced and he noticed it and brought me out to show me.

[GMTRUCKTECH]

It's all about the U baby! Go canes!

[cammiller]

well that was my first suspicion. I appreciate the help guys. which one is more likely to fail? the front or rear u-joint of the rear driveshaft that is?

 

Don't know but you should replace both of 'em while you're at it. Most auto parts stores sell both OE replacements as well as heavy-duty replacements. I suggest buying the HD for the extra measure of durability. The hardest part if you're doing them yourself is pressing the old, factory-sealed u-joints out of the driveshaft yokes. I bent a bench vise before attempting this, even after the joints were heated with a propane torch to melt the injected plastic. Now I just pull the shaft and take everything to a garage where they can press out the old/press in the new in short order.

 

Good luck.

 

 

I agree, replace both. They are cheap, and while you have it out, that much easier.

[2000DV4.8]

well that was my first suspicion. I appreciate the help guys. which one is more likely to fail? the front or rear u-joint of the rear driveshaft that is?

 

Don't know but you should replace both of 'em while you're at it. Most auto parts stores sell both OE replacements as well as heavy-duty replacements. I suggest buying the HD for the extra measure of durability. The hardest part if you're doing them yourself is pressing the old, factory-sealed u-joints out of the driveshaft yokes. I bent a bench vise before attempting this, even after the joints were heated with a propane torch to melt the injected plastic. Now I just pull the shaft and take everything to a garage where they can press out the old/press in the new in short order.

 

Good luck.

 

 

I agree, replace both. They are cheap, and while you have it out, that much easier.

 

 

 

+1. It's an extra 15 bucks, and it'll save you from having to pull the shaft again down the road.