Fuel Pump Replacemnt

[Cdale2k]

Ok, so I've looked around this forum for how to change out a fuel pump on an nbs silverado and have really found nothing. So i figure i will ask for instructions and take pictures while i change mine out seeing as it finally died after 10 years and 192763 miles. I have heard of removing the bed which is 6 bolts for short bed, and 8 for long bed, or removing the tank, which would you consider easier? Along with that how can you tell if you need an Evap fuel pump or not? ( i would think that most american vehicles would have the evap system for emmisions reasons) And also, does Gm have any special way to remove the pump ( I work for land rover, and everything needs a special tool). So any help here would be greatly appreciated, not only for me, but probably others as well. ThanksAndrew

[satori]

On my '90 1500 it was easier to remove the bed. The strap bolts holding the tank on were between the tank and bed, so there was no way to get it out without removing the bed. No special tools required, but I did bend the rod on the sending unit, causing the gas gauge to be about a quarter tank off. Plus, it was the perfect excuse to buy an electric impact wrench since the bed bolts were rusted on.

[tramz]

Replaced my '97 twice. Dropping the tank each time. Took about an hour. No special tools, need to disconnect the hose from the inlet to the tank and ground wire, fuel lines, etc., there's a slip/compression ring which holds the module in, a flat screw driver and hammer to tap the rings tabs, I said tap. Turns about an 1/8 turn, lift the module out, may have to turn and rotate slightly. Not familar with '99 nbs, so this may or may not be accurate for you, but can't be much different. One thing I wish GM would do is put an access panel in the bed over the pump.

[Cdale2k]

Yeah, I agree an access panel would be nice. Make life alot easier for the DIY people, and the techs at GM

[Mikeee]

I've not done a p/up but on my Astro I used cam buckle straps to help lower the tank down and to raise it back up. No jacks needed. Tank need not be empty either. I have used compressed air to push out the fuel thru an inserted hose. Stuffing a rag in the inlet helps to build up some pressure.

 

There have been reports of wire harness corrosion supplying the pump.

Replace the filters and screens.

I usually replace the relay as well. A bad pump could have caused damage to the contacts. Cheap insurance.

 

Be sure to have a working fire putter-outter nearby just in case.

 

And don't forget the pics.... we love pics.

[Cdale2k]

Oh yeah, I will make sure that i get pics. But I have already replaced the filter 5k ago, just because it came up maintenance wise (change it every 10k). And the relay would be a good idea to replace also. But where did they have harness corrosion? I will inspect the harness all the way through, but thats kind of a scary thought. But still trying to figure out the W/ evap and W/O evap thing, any ideas?