Jump to content

Vvme Hid Kit .....cheap!


Recommended Posts

Posted

Okay,

 

Let me break this down. I bought it a week ago. It got here and I installed it this week. Works fine, but one of the bulbs is not showing the color it's suppose to, it's a yellow hue instead of a pure white. So here's the deal. It has 14 month warranty.The bulb will need to be replaced and it will cost 25$ to get a new part shipped. I've decided to go a different route for my fogs lights. This is what people use to run in the foglights for the NNBS style trucks and SUV's.

 

Bulb: 880

Ballast: 35w

Relay Not Included

Brand: VVME

Warranty: 14 months

Kelvin Temp: 4300K ( Very White, with hardly any yellow hints )

Cost: 70$ plus shipping this includes the new replacement part.

or

35$ plus shipping and you can order the replacement part and run the kit as is for now.

Posted
Okay,

 

Let me break this down. I bought it a week ago. It got here and I installed it this week. Works fine, but one of the bulbs is not showing the color it's suppose to, it's a yellow hue instead of a pure white. So here's the deal. It has 14 month warranty.The bulb will need to be replaced and it will cost 25$ to get a new part shipped. I've decided to go a different route for my fogs lights. This is what people use to run in the foglights for the NNBS style trucks and SUV's.

 

Bulb: 880

Ballast: 35w

Relay Not Included

Brand: VVME

Warranty: 14 months

Kelvin Temp: 4300K ( Very White, with hardly any yellow hints )

Cost: 70$ plus shipping this includes the new replacement part.

or

35$ plus shipping and you can order the replacement part and run the kit as is for now.

I don't understand why you aren't able to get a replacement bulb for free. What good is a warranty if they won't even replace a faulty part when it's a week old.

Posted
Okay,

 

Let me break this down. I bought it a week ago. It got here and I installed it this week. Works fine, but one of the bulbs is not showing the color it's suppose to, it's a yellow hue instead of a pure white. So here's the deal. It has 14 month warranty.The bulb will need to be replaced and it will cost 25$ to get a new part shipped. I've decided to go a different route for my fogs lights. This is what people use to run in the foglights for the NNBS style trucks and SUV's.

 

Bulb: 880

Ballast: 35w

Relay Not Included

Brand: VVME

Warranty: 14 months

Kelvin Temp: 4300K ( Very White, with hardly any yellow hints )

Cost: 70$ plus shipping this includes the new replacement part.

or

35$ plus shipping and you can order the replacement part and run the kit as is for now.

I don't understand why you aren't able to get a replacement bulb for free. What good is a warranty if they won't even replace a faulty part when it's a week old.

 

 

I have to agree. They should pay for the part PLUS shipping. It's not your fault the thing is a piece of shit.

Posted
Okay,

 

Let me break this down. I bought it a week ago. It got here and I installed it this week. Works fine, but one of the bulbs is not showing the color it's suppose to, it's a yellow hue instead of a pure white. So here's the deal. It has 14 month warranty.The bulb will need to be replaced and it will cost 25$ to get a new part shipped. I've decided to go a different route for my fogs lights. This is what people use to run in the foglights for the NNBS style trucks and SUV's.

 

Bulb: 880

Ballast: 35w

Relay Not Included

Brand: VVME

Warranty: 14 months

Kelvin Temp: 4300K ( Very White, with hardly any yellow hints )

Cost: 70$ plus shipping this includes the new replacement part.

or

35$ plus shipping and you can order the replacement part and run the kit as is for now.

I don't understand why you aren't able to get a replacement bulb for free. What good is a warranty if they won't even replace a faulty part when it's a week old.

 

 

I have to agree. They should pay for the part PLUS shipping. It's not your fault the thing is a piece of shit.

 

 

Tell me about it, but unfortunatley it's listed in the policy before you purchase. so there's nothing i can really do since it was provided before purchase.

 

 

The kit still actually works, jus tthe color hues are not matching...

Posted

Rmando, what is the "Key Delete" you refer to in your sig? Is that simply using the different handle on the driver door or is it something else?

Posted
Rmando, what is the "Key Delete" you refer to in your sig? Is that simply using the different handle on the driver door or is it something else?

 

PM sent

Posted

Got your PM, thanks. For the record, he was simply talking about the door handle mod (using a rear handle rather than the one with the key hole) that some guys have chosen to do.

Posted
Got your PM, thanks. For the record, he was simply talking about the door handle mod (using a rear handle rather than the one with the key hole) that some guys have chosen to do.

 

 

maybe i'm uninformed on this, but that sounds like a terrible idea. if you have a dead battery you have NO way to get into your truck? i must be missing something here...

Posted
Okay,

 

Let me break this down. I bought it a week ago. It got here and I installed it this week. Works fine, but one of the bulbs is not showing the color it's suppose to, it's a yellow hue instead of a pure white. So here's the deal. It has 14 month warranty.The bulb will need to be replaced and it will cost 25$ to get a new part shipped. I've decided to go a different route for my fogs lights. This is what people use to run in the foglights for the NNBS style trucks and SUV's.

 

Bulb: 880

Ballast: 35w

Relay Not Included

Brand: VVME

Warranty: 14 months

Kelvin Temp: 4300K ( Very White, with hardly any yellow hints )

Cost: 70$ plus shipping this includes the new replacement part.

or

35$ plus shipping and you can order the replacement part and run the kit as is for now.

I don't understand why you aren't able to get a replacement bulb for free. What good is a warranty if they won't even replace a faulty part when it's a week old.

 

 

VVME is nothing more than a storefront to sell Chinese junk. I know more than person who has had problems with brand new components from them. They stand by their warranty but it will cost you.

Posted
Got your PM, thanks. For the record, he was simply talking about the door handle mod (using a rear handle rather than the one with the key hole) that some guys have chosen to do.

 

 

maybe i'm uninformed on this, but that sounds like a terrible idea. if you have a dead battery you have NO way to get into your truck? i must be missing something here...

 

 

 

all it takes is a bit of battery checks to make sure it's not low and just replace before it dies.

Worst case scenario, i can just calll On-star and pop the lock. of course i'll have to reactivate since i didn't renew.

Beats paying to replace a key cylinder, new handle, re-installing it, risk of getting items stolen, or even have a stolen truck.

Posted
Got your PM, thanks. For the record, he was simply talking about the door handle mod (using a rear handle rather than the one with the key hole) that some guys have chosen to do.

 

 

maybe i'm uninformed on this, but that sounds like a terrible idea. if you have a dead battery you have NO way to get into your truck? i must be missing something here...

 

 

 

all it takes is a bit of battery checks to make sure it's not low and just replace before it dies.

Worst case scenario, i can just calll On-star and pop the lock. of course i'll have to reactivate since i didn't renew.

Beats paying to replace a key cylinder, new handle, re-installing it, risk of getting items stolen, or even have a stolen truck.

 

 

how is onstar going to be able to unlock your vehicle if it has a dead battery? also i wouldn't fool yourself into thinking this provides a detour to would-be auto thieves. if they're willing to pop your key cylinder out, they're willing to break a window to get in as well. anyway i'm not trying to jack your thread, i was just curious about this door handle mod.

Posted
Got your PM, thanks. For the record, he was simply talking about the door handle mod (using a rear handle rather than the one with the key hole) that some guys have chosen to do.

 

 

maybe i'm uninformed on this, but that sounds like a terrible idea. if you have a dead battery you have NO way to get into your truck? i must be missing something here...

 

 

 

all it takes is a bit of battery checks to make sure it's not low and just replace before it dies.

Worst case scenario, i can just calll On-star and pop the lock. of course i'll have to reactivate since i didn't renew.

Beats paying to replace a key cylinder, new handle, re-installing it, risk of getting items stolen, or even have a stolen truck.

 

 

how is onstar going to be able to unlock your vehicle if it has a dead battery? also i wouldn't fool yourself into thinking this provides a detour to would-be auto thieves. if they're willing to pop your key cylinder out, they're willing to break a window to get in as well. anyway i'm not trying to jack your thread, i was just curious about this door handle mod.

 

 

Yea true about the on-star and dead battery...LOL, although a few dead batteries i've had still have enough juice to open the doors a few times.

 

Of course they can still break the window, but the handle is so easy, it's just a preventative approach, and it looks smooth too :lol:

 

 

 

OH SOLD!!!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...