Rear Rotor Dust Shield

[silverado man]

Does anyone know if the dust shield around the rear rotor is easily replaced? If so how do you get them off? After doing brake job I am still hear a metal on metal noise and I thinks these are the culprit, as they are very rusty.

[dorman68]

Does anyone know if the dust shield around the rear rotor is easily replaced? If so how do you get them off? After doing brake job I am still hear a metal on metal noise and I thinks these are the culprit, as they are very rusty.

 

The rear brake shields are an easy but time consuming repair. The axles have to be pulled out to service the shields.

[silverado man]

Does anyone know if the dust shield around the rear rotor is easily replaced? If so how do you get them off? After doing brake job I am still hear a metal on metal noise and I thinks these are the culprit, as they are very rusty.

 

The rear brake shields are an easy but time consuming repair. The axles have to be pulled out to service the shields.

 

 

That's what I was afraid of. Is it hard to take the axle out?

[Lincoln30]

Did you check the clips that hold the pads on??? On my 99 the first time it had a brake job, one of these pad clips didn't seat correctly and made a "nice" metal to metal rubbing noise.

 

Dean

[silverado man]

I believe that they are on correctly. That could be the problem.

[Zembonez]

I believe that they are on correctly. That could be the problem.

It's easy to bend one of them when you have the rotor off... especially if it is rusty already. You should still be able to bend them away from the rotor and stop the noise.

[Bish]

Bending them worked for a while on my Tahoe. I eventually had to replace them as they are really cheap metal and they rusted away.

 

You have to pull the axles and may as well replace the axle seals while you are there. The only tricky part is partially removing the locking pin in the G80 rear end. It took me 45 minutes for the first one and 10 for the other side and I consider myself a slightly above average shade tree mechanic.

[silverado man]

If I were to replace this shield does anyone have any pictures of the procedure. I do have a chiltons manual I haven't looked to see if it is in there.

[dorman68]

<H3 style="MARGIN: auto 0in 2pt">1999 Chevy Truck C 1500 P/U 2WD V8-4.8L VIN V</H3>

 

Vehicle Level Transmission and Drivetrain Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints Axle Shaft Assembly Service and Repair 8.6, 9.5 Inch Axle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8.6, 9.5 Inch Axle

 

 

 

Notes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

REAR AXLE SHAFT

 

Removal Procedure

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
   
2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
   
3. Remove the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement - Rear in Disc Brakes.
   
4. Remove the rear cover and the gasket. Refer to Rear Cover and Gasket Replacement
   
5. Remove the pinion shaft locking screw.
   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. On axles without a locking differential, remove the pinion shaft.
   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. On axles with a locking differential, remove the shaft part way. Rotate the case until the pinion shaft touches the housing.
   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. On axles with a locking differential, use a screwdriver, or a similar tool, in order to enter the differential case and rotate the lock (1) until the lock aligns with the thrust block (2).
   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. Push the flange of the axle shaft (1) toward the differential.
   
2. Remove the lock (4) from the button end of the axle shaft (1). Important: When removing the axle shaft, do not rotate the shaft. Rotating the shaft will misaligned the gears. Misaligning the gears will make the assembly difficult.
   
3. Remove the axle shaft (1) from the housing (5).
   
4. Inspect all the parts for damage. Replace the parts as necessary.
   

Installation Procedure

 

Important: Carefully insert the axle shaft in order to not damage the seal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. Install the axle shaft (1) into the housing (5).
   
2. Slide the axle shaft (1) into place allowing the splines to engage the differential side gear.
   
3. On axles without a locking differential, place the lock (4) on the button end of the axle shaft (1).
   
4. On axles with a locking differential, keep the pinion shaft partially withdrawn.
   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. On axles with a locking differential, place the lock (1) on the axle shaft (3) so that the ends are flush with the thrust block (2).
   
2. Pull the shaft flange outward in order to seat the lock in the differential gear.
   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Important: Anytime you remove a differential pinion shaft locking screws, coat the screw threads with LOCTITE 242 before reinstalling the screws.The screw has an adhesive coating in order to prevent the screw from loosening in the case. Removing the screw removes the adhesive on the screw.

 

 

1. Align the hole in the pinion shaft with the screw hole in the differential case. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
   
2. Install the pinion flange locking screw.
   

 

• • Tighten the pinion flange locking screw to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.) .
    

 

 

 

1. Install the rear cover and the gasket. Refer to Rear Cover and Gasket Replacement.
   
2. Install the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement - Rear in Disc Brakes.
   
3. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
   
4. Fill the rear axle to the following levels.
   

 

• • 8.6 inch ring gear rear axles 15 - 40 mm (0.6 - 1.6 inch) below the fill plug.
    
  • 9.5 and 10.5 inch ring gear rear axles 15 - 40 mm (0.4 inch) below the fill plug.
    

 

 

 

1. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
   

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ranger]

How much does that site charge? They want too much info before they actualy show a price list, so I'm guessing in the 300+ buck range...

 

And it looks like it'd be a pain to pull my axles now, I want to do a disc brake conversion but if I gotta dive into the locking diff's mechanicals I'm gonna take a little while longer to study it...

[Bish]

Not as bad as you think. You remove a small locking bolt then you can push the locking pin out 3/4 of the way. You push the axle in a bit and the C-clip falls loose. Much scarier before you try it. I'll see if I still have my Tahoe Helm manual and if I do I'll post a pic of the diff with the pin for you.

[silverado man]

Thanks for the reply/info dorman68. We will see if I can get some time to work on it. Looks a little scary and seems easy to screw something up. On the other hand I drove my truck today and didn't hear the noise yet. We will see if it comes back it may have been the brakes but I still think it is the lip of the dust shield that slides into the rotor grove.

[chuck16]

Does anybody really know if these bits are required? Mine are 1/5 gone on oneside on the bottom and for a $20 /side part it seems like a waste of $$$ just to have those shields on there. I suppose it protects the E-brake system. Just seems cheezy that you can't just easily replace those..

 

-Evan

[silverado man]

Agreed, It's a shame that they didn't make it out of better material that would last longer or make it easier to change out.