Amp Remote Power

prhuseby · March 29, 2009

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra Crew Cab with Bose (non lux) system. I've replaced the door speakers, added a powered sub woofer and a amp. Does ANYBODY know where I can tap into remote power for the amp so that it stays on untill the door is opened (after ignition is turned off)??? Arrgghhh!!! Any help would be appreciated.

mfennema · March 31, 2009

Not sure about the 06 but in my 07 there was a box with a bunch of connections up behind the brake pedal which is where i found my power. Maybe there is one there somewhere? Good luck.

Silverado_Monkey · March 31, 2009

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra Crew Cab with Bose (non lux) system. I've replaced the door speakers, added a powered sub woofer and a amp. Does ANYBODY know where I can tap into remote power for the amp so that it stays on untill the door is opened (after ignition is turned off)??? Arrgghhh!!! Any help would be appreciated.

I'm guessing you didn't change the head unit? I swapped my head unit for a Kennwood LCD fold out and the aftermarket harness/converter box makes the system work off the door. The amp remote runs to the headunit so they're all in sync.

If you are running the stock HU, how did you get the audio out for the amp? There's no 12v switched source on that?

prhuseby · April 1, 2009

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra Crew Cab with Bose (non lux) system. I've replaced the door speakers, added a powered sub woofer and a amp. Does ANYBODY know where I can tap into remote power for the amp so that it stays on untill the door is opened (after ignition is turned off)??? Arrgghhh!!! Any help would be appreciated.

I'm guessing you didn't change the head unit? I swapped my head unit for a Kennwood LCD fold out and the aftermarket harness/converter box makes the system work off the door. The amp remote runs to the headunit so they're all in sync.

If you are running the stock HU, how did you get the audio out for the amp? There's no 12v switched source on that?

Let me explain the whole setup...it's a long story, but I'll try to make it short.

Wanted to add Auxiliary input to the stereo system, so I purchased a Soundgate AUXGMV3 auxiliary input converter. Simply plugs in to the factory harness behind the HU and I mounted the unit itself in the dash behind the glove box. Worked great...but the audio signal was much lower and I had to turn the volume on the HU up almost all the way for medium volume at the speakers.
To cure the auxiliaray input volume problem, I purchased a PIE LD-1 adjustable line driver with subsonic filter. This is a driver/pre-amp that boosts the RCA level signal from the auxiliary input. It has independent channel volume adjustment and works great. Buuuttt, the stereo still doesn't have good base and sound could be better quality at high volume. I don't need the base to slam my head into the windshield, but I do like a good solid base that I can feel.
Still not satisfied, so I replaced the door speakers with new Kenwood 2-way speakers; KFC-X1700 6¾". Yes - they fit in both the front and rear doors (I have the crew cab pickup). I had to trim a little on the door panel (on the inside behind the speaker grill) but it is not visible and the original speakers could be re-installed and nobody would know it - except for the sound!
Besides the door speakers, I added a Kenwood powered woofer; KSC-SW1. I tapped into the existing speaker wires for the signal to use.
This made a huge difference in sound, but I still didn't have the volume I wanted. So I decided to add a JL Audio CleanSweep CL441dsp and a Rockford Fosgate P4504 amplifier (4 channel - 450 watts max power output). The CleanSweep CL441dsp takes the signal from the HU - "cleans" it and sends it out to an amplifier. It actually does a lot more than that according to JL Audio, but I don't have all night to explain! I hooked it all up with much anticipation....and it didn't work at all.....AARRGGHHH!!! Found out that the signal that comes from the HU on a Bose system is not compatable with the CleanSweep and I needed to add one more piece to the system. I had to buy a "summing device" - a JL Audio CL-SSI. I was a bit ticked off that no where in any of the CleanSweep CL441dsp do they mention "oh..by the way...you will also need to buy the CL-SSI if you are using this with a Bose sound system" ARRRGGHHH!!!! One other note...when I hooked up the CleanSweep CL441dsp, I disconnected the signal from continuing on to the amplifier and sub woofer in the console.
After MANY hours of frustration and buying way more than I entended, I finally do have a great sounding system. If I knew then what I know now...I would have yanked the HU and avoided the JL components. Also, the powered woofer is OK...but I have heard better. It's only a 6½" woofer, so I guess I shouldn't expect much more.
Now if I could only get the amp to stay on the same as the HU.....sigghhhh......

I've attached some pictures to show the final system and if you want more pic's...let me know. I took a lot of pictures documenting the installation of everything. I also was able to have a friend of a friend get me a PDF file of the stereo schematics for my truck - which was the final ticket to help me decipher the mess of wiring.

stadt11 · April 1, 2009

I used the pink wire behind the HU for mine.

Silverado_Monkey · April 1, 2009

Yikes!!!

What a cluster f*k!

Sorry to hear about your saga with this install. I orginally bought a PIE aux in unit before I installed the 7" fold out. That unit has a couple of trim knobs on it that allowed you to adjust the gain and the chime volume. It really sucks that the soundgate didn't have that ( i actually checked this morning). All this would have never happend if you could have boosted that signal in the first place. Unfortunately I don;t have any other insight... sorry...

Try out stadt11's suggestion...

Good Luck!

prhuseby · April 1, 2009

Thanks stadt11....I'll give the pink wire a try tonight if I have time.

stadt11 · April 1, 2009

NP, good luck

LousCrew · April 2, 2009

Let me explain the whole setup...it's a long story, but I'll try to make it short.

Wanted to add Auxiliary input to the stereo system, so I purchased a Soundgate AUXGMV3 auxiliary input converter. Simply plugs in to the factory harness behind the HU and I mounted the unit itself in the dash behind the glove box. Worked great...but the audio signal was much lower and I had to turn the volume on the HU up almost all the way for medium volume at the speakers.

To cure the auxiliaray input volume problem, I purchased a PIE LD-1 adjustable line driver with subsonic filter. This is a driver/pre-amp that boosts the RCA level signal from the auxiliary input. It has independent channel volume adjustment and works great. Buuuttt, the stereo still doesn't have good base and sound could be better quality at high volume. I don't need the base to slam my head into the windshield, but I do like a good solid base that I can feel.

Still not satisfied, so I replaced the door speakers with new Kenwood 2-way speakers; KFC-X1700 6¾". Yes - they fit in both the front and rear doors (I have the crew cab pickup). I had to trim a little on the door panel (on the inside behind the speaker grill) but it is not visible and the original speakers could be re-installed and nobody would know it - except for the sound!

Besides the door speakers, I added a Kenwood powered woofer; KSC-SW1. I tapped into the existing speaker wires for the signal to use.

This made a huge difference in sound, but I still didn't have the volume I wanted. So I decided to add a JL Audio CleanSweep CL441dsp and a Rockford Fosgate P4504 amplifier (4 channel - 450 watts max power output). The CleanSweep CL441dsp takes the signal from the HU - "cleans" it and sends it out to an amplifier. It actually does a lot more than that according to JL Audio, but I don't have all night to explain! I hooked it all up with much anticipation....and it didn't work at all.....AARRGGHHH!!! Found out that the signal that comes from the HU on a Bose system is not compatable with the CleanSweep and I needed to add one more piece to the system. I had to buy a "summing device" - a JL Audio CL-SSI. I was a bit ticked off that no where in any of the CleanSweep CL441dsp do they mention "oh..by the way...you will also need to buy the CL-SSI if you are using this with a Bose sound system" ARRRGGHHH!!!! One other note...when I hooked up the CleanSweep CL441dsp, I disconnected the signal from continuing on to the amplifier and sub woofer in the console.

After MANY hours of frustration and buying way more than I entended, I finally do have a great sounding system. If I knew then what I know now...I would have yanked the HU and avoided the JL components. Also, the powered woofer is OK...but I have heard better. It's only a 6½" woofer, so I guess I shouldn't expect much more.

Now if I could only get the amp to stay on the same as the HU.....sigghhhh......

I've attached some pictures to show the final system and if you want more pic's...let me know. I took a lot of pictures documenting the installation of everything. I also was able to have a friend of a friend get me a PDF file of the stereo schematics for my truck - which was the final ticket to help me decipher the mess of wiring.

WOW. Seems like getting an aftermarket HU may have been a better route. That's alot of "points of failure" within the system. Hopefully, you won't have any problems. But, at least you got it squared away, which was the main goal, right?

prhuseby · April 7, 2009

NP, good luck

OK...I am ready to throw in the towel. Tried the pink wire that comes into the HU - back side. No luck. Power turns off once the ignition is turned off, but you can see the HU is still powered up until the door is opened. AARRGGHH!!!! I also tried the windshield wiper power - fuse located in fuse panel on side of dish by drivers door. No luck againl. Double AARRGGHHH!!!!! I think I have searched the web for about a zillion hours and can't find the solution. My next step is to probe the wires going to the amp in the bottom of the center counsole and see if any of them are "hot" when ignition is off, but stereo still on before opening a door.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated!!!!!

08VortecMax · April 7, 2009

NP, good luck

OK...I am ready to throw in the towel. Tried the pink wire that comes into the HU - back side. No luck. Power turns off once the ignition is turned off, but you can see the HU is still powered up until the door is opened. AARRGGHH!!!! I also tried the windshield wiper power - fuse located in fuse panel on side of dish by drivers door. No luck againl. Double AARRGGHHH!!!!! I think I have searched the web for about a zillion hours and can't find the solution. My next step is to probe the wires going to the amp in the bottom of the center counsole and see if any of them are "hot" when ignition is off, but stereo still on before opening a door.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated!!!!!

I think a OEM 1 PAC would have been the harness to use. I installed it, kept my stock HU and have two amps and everything works great. No signal problems either. The harness had one wire not pinned for the remote to amps. Everything else just plugged in.

stadt11 · April 7, 2009

NP, good luck

OK...I am ready to throw in the towel. Tried the pink wire that comes into the HU - back side. No luck. Power turns off once the ignition is turned off, but you can see the HU is still powered up until the door is opened. AARRGGHH!!!! I also tried the windshield wiper power - fuse located in fuse panel on side of dish by drivers door. No luck againl. Double AARRGGHHH!!!!! I think I have searched the web for about a zillion hours and can't find the solution. My next step is to probe the wires going to the amp in the bottom of the center counsole and see if any of them are "hot" when ignition is off, but stereo still on before opening a door.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated!!!!!

That sucks, sorry it didn't work for you, but that's the wire I used for mine. I'll see if I can find anything else, maybe a different wire underneath the center console will do it.

stadt11 · April 7, 2009

1 Suggestion I found: find a 12V+ that turns on when you turn ignition on, one possible solution is to splice into a wire that runs to the climate control or ignition wire

Found Another: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=83933

or

"Technically you could connect your amplifier turn on wire to the radio switched 12v+ wire. That way your amplifier is on whenever the car is on and off whenever your car is off. Just make sure to run an in-line 1-amp fuse on the amplifier turn on wire." ...

Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire to the fusebox for switched power.