Jump to content

Gremlins


Bag-a-bolts

Recommended Posts

Posted

This started two weeks ago. My Truck is a 2003 GMC Sierra 3500 6.6 LB7 CC Dually.

 

The fuel, volt, oil, temp and trns temp gauges shut off and the service 4wd message appears in the message center and the 4X4 buttons all light up, this is usually followed by the message driver 1 and the chime, like a start up cycle. The little line under the gear selection dissappers as well. The radio is also effected and is randomly turned on and off, also the power window and lock controls lose function intermittently. Sometimes the entire cluster doesn't turn on as if not responding to wake up. The dimmer control, dome light, passlock & fob are also losing function, often when opening with the key the horn goes off as if I am breaking in. On the cluster the Batt light is constantly on.

Also the Ignition doesn't act normal, it doesn't always recognize the key is in and the door is open. When turned to Acc radio & windows actived for e few seconds at a time. Turn key to run and cluster turns on but voltage and temp guages don't read, no radio or windows work here either. Turn key to start and the truck fires up, runs and driver normal.

 

The following don't seem to be effected these work as normal in normal key postions.

Wash & Wipers

HVAC & Blower

Headlights HI LO & Fog

Rear Window Buttons

Rear Def

Power Mirrors

Cargo Light

 

What I've done since this started -

 

Replaced batteries and checked for corroded connections

Inspected harnesses for chaffing and altered position by hand to see if any effect on problem - nothing

Checked fuses and conections related to IPC TBC DDM PDM TREC

Checked and cleaned ground under drivers side door. It's grounded.

Checked voltage at various points in cab 12.6 v stopped 14.6 running

 

What I suspect from what I've read -

 

Bad Ignition switch Or Bad TBC

Low voltage to TBC or related modules

Short in the harness

 

Has anyone experienced this problem before? Since this all occured in a short time period I'm sure it is one issue causing it.

 

Any suggestions would be very appreciated.

Posted

For this I would get a factory service manual and wiring diagram if you don't already have it...

 

Then take one thing at a time and read all you can about it. Learn how it works, where it gets its power from (which fuse/circuit).

 

Then find the power wire for that circuit and attach a multimeter to monitor that wire. Just leave the multimeter in the truck and see what it is reading when this happens.

 

So to start, monitor the power to these things. See if power is being lost somewhere.

 

Then if power OK, learn if there is an electronic module which supplies the information to all these things. Monitor the power to that.

Posted

I would certainly get that vehicle scanned, there could be codes thrown from the instrument cluster (yeah there is a computer in there!) It could very well pin-point the problem, if not, get the instrument cluster re-flashed, it can be done at the dealer or a shop with the right computer software, the shop i used to work at could re-flash them and usually clear up cluster problems, its hard to say if all your problems are caused by the cluster but its a place to start after all the things you have done so far. Also don`t be surprised if they say the cluster is NFG! its very common, they can be found fairly affordable (compared to dealer) at places online, (sometimes ebay) then they just need the mileage installed at a dealer (unfortunatly) but anyways might be getting ahead of myself here, Get that baby scanned and go from there, Those electrical gramlins can be a PITA!

Posted

Well I was almost ready to give this one to the dealer but I thought I'll check just a little more, I pulled the trim off the sill area beside the drivers seat and noticed things were quite damp. I followed the harness on the floor up under the drivers seat, I unbolted and pulled the seat to inspect the rest of the harness. I found the cause of my problem and I imagine it would likely occur with age in other trucks in winter areas so I'll post what I found. The Problem starts with salt and snow/water in the foot well area. The felt under the carpet gets saturated and wicks moisture up under the driver seat, the air bag system is under the driver seat carpet on the metal cab floor. As the cabin heats up the module stays cold and creates the perfect setting for some serious condensation, which with salt becomes serious corrosion. If you have a work truck that has seen its share of slushy boots and are having some strange electrical issues, check the module under the seat. It was the source of my problems.

post-61985-1239677344_thumb.jpg

The module was covered in white flaked aluminum and salt. At first I thought it just looked bad but may still work because the connector was perfectly good, no corrosion inside the connection so I cut open the module to be sure this was really it. Tried the truck with module disconnected and all the problems were gone.

Hope this thread helps someone.

post-61985-1239677344_thumb.jpg

post-61985-1239677344_thumb.jpg

post-61985-1239677344_thumb.jpg

Posted

Good detective work! (And salt water is an excellent conductor of electricity...)

 

I say: It is always something simple, but finding it is the hard part!

Posted

The airbag module? wow wouldnt of guessed it..BCM yes, but not this. I wonder if you could get a good short in that module and set off the airbags. (could be deadly)

Posted

I priced the module today, 850 plus tax from the dealer. 250 from local salvage special order. I choose to go used. When I get it I'll install it and head to the dealer, these modules needs to be programed by a tech 2 with the right software to be recognized - .5 hrs at the dealer.

 

Now I just got to free up that seat belt lol! :throwup:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Here's the 2026 order guide - Vehicle Order Guide   RPO code "AS3"?  Not seeing it.  What is it supposed to be?  I see AS3 used a long time ago as some sort of seat option, but its not applicable to the current Suburban.    I see RPO code "AZ3" which is 1st row 40/20/40 split bench.  That is only on LS trim, which LS can't option any of the trick suspension.     2nd row bench power fold RPO code is "ATT".  So your dealer should be able to sort their locator to find matching builds by searching the combo of ATT and Z95 combined to find a 2nd row power fold with MagRide.     You can do the 2nd row power bench AND have MagRide, or Mag with Air on Z71, RST and High Country.     Here's a Z71 with 2nd row power bench and the Z71 Off Road Package which adds the Adaptive Air and MagRide - 2026 Suburban | Details | Vehicle Locator   Here's an RST with 2nd row power bench and the RST Capability Package, and RST Capability adds the Adaptive Air with Magride - 2026 Suburban | Details | Vehicle Locator   I can't find a High Country, but you can do it on there.  Requires the 6.2, and the Sun and Tow pack which allows you to then option the 2nd row power fold.  Black interior only.  High Country comes standard with MagRide and you can order the air if you get the High Country Deluxe, but Deluxe will take you to captain 2nd row.       You can do it at GMC on the AT4 and the regular Denali (not Ultimate) as well.  
    • So.  Get this.  On the Chevy regular cab, you can get the factory remote start at the dealer from the accessories catalog.  BUT.  GMC, you can't.   Now...get this...GMC 2 door, you CAN get the power seat.     Go.  Figure.   Anywho.  are you trying to order?  Or locate?  Ordering for 2 door 1/2 tons has been stopped as of April or May?  So you won't be able to order.  You'll have to shop on the ground units or in transit units.     Ordering was stopped because the new trucks are coming.  
    • Thank you.  I really appreciate the well wishes.  I'm an engineer in the telecom industry, I know hardly anything about marketing.  Over the years I did some videos for nonprofits and web sites for small businesses and the seed was planted.  Agree with over-buying, I started shooting on an iPhone before I got my first DSLR and tripod.   I'm looking at trucks with potentially 150,000+ miles to keep the cost of entry low while focusing on the client experience and equipment.  Good wireless mics for interviews, the right lenses & lighting to look professional.  But I don't want to be late or break down, the stress of emptying a trailer & securing a rental truck right before a gig would negate any savings from buying a junker.  So anything that leaks water, has extensive rust, or generally unreliable I'd like to avoid.   Does GM/Chevy overbuild these trucks for upfitting?  I talked to a local upfitter, they sometimes tie lights & other 12V into existing circuits, which I always thought was bad.  Which is why I enjoyed the AUX upfit switches on previous trucks (odd they mostly come with off-road or work truck packages).
    • i guess it might be depending on the type of driving. my 2.7 has 120k miles, changed the plugs at 70k and it runs as good as new. i have not used any injector cleaner
    • GM's are stainless and have a fairly robust powder coating, although, still not worth $850 in my opinion. They will hold up a lot better than their cheaper steel aftermarket counterparts.   What I like about the GM step bars is dealers will often equip their dealer stock with them. Lots of margin. Which means a lot of people end up buying them because they're already on the truck, even if they don't like them. So it's pretty easy to find brand new takeoffs with hardware on Marketplace and Craigslist for about $250.   That's what I did for my crew cab. I wanted ZR2 rock rails for the look, but with the ability to bolt up GM's assist step package. From GM it's about a $2500 accessory all in. The old folks in my life can't get in the truck without steps. I found the whole package on marketplace for $180.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...