Jump to content

Volant Air Scoop Gone


Recommended Posts

Posted

After about a month... the thing just fell off ...

 

I thought about this when installing it because there was really no way to secure the scoop.. its held on wih just a rubber hose clamp...

 

I emailed Volant and their supposed "great customer service" and didnt get a response. I just assumed it as a total loss.

 

Just a warning for those out there considering this... it could be an easy $100+ wasted.

 

:rolleyes:

Posted

I`d like to hear more about this because I just ordered a Volant with the scoop. Any Volant users out there with tips and tricks for the install process? Is there anything to tie wrap or otherwise secure the scoop to in order to support it at the lower end?

Posted

I've had my Volant for several months with no problems. I used a few zip-ties to help secure the Ram-air scoop and it's holding fine.

 

As far as problems with the install, the only area where I had any trouble was getting all the pieces between the airbox and the throttle body properly fitted. I had to trim a small area on the fan shroud to fit the intake tube onto the throttle body.

 

Overall, I'm pleased with the Volant product.

Posted

Mine fell off after about a month too. Luckily I was driving on a backroad and just stopped and picked it up. I also used LONG zip ties to secure mine to the truck. I also chucked the Volant connector hose from the scoop to the airbox and used some flexible air duct hose instead. The hose is way lighter than what Volant provides. You can essentially make your own scoop anyway as others here have done. For me, running the Volant scoop with a Granatelli MAS is good for about 1.5mpg and an engine much more eager to rev. Though I wonder if intake setup causes a loss of torque and that's why the engine needs to rev more. In any case, I like the mileage increase.

Posted
zip ties or a nut and bolt...and your done....someone told me that the AIR RAM Scoop sometimes let water into the engine......is that true?

That's my concern- we get lots of high water around here.

 

But even driving in hard rain, how do these things deal with the water ?? Where's it go ?? Are there strategic holes to let water escape ?? Certainly some must be making to the engine or at least filter, don't you think ??

Posted

It might just be me, but after spending over 200 bucks why should a product require zip ties to be held together? Seems that there is a lack of quality in my opinion. I was close to buying one until I read these posts. I liked the idea of a sealed filter unlike the K and N. I just can't see spending anywhere from 240 to 290 for a prduct that will fall off if I don't zip tie it together. Just my .02 :thumbs:

Posted

I "had" the Volant. I put the stock air box back on and dropped in a k and n filter. It seems to be the same if anything the stocker does better. :thumbs:

Posted

those after market air scoops are a total waste of hard earned money. if theres any gain it's up in the 5000 rpm range and for maybe 3-5 hp, and who can drive their truck that way? (i know some one will say i do!) kn filters are good but pricey. ac filters is all you need and lot less $$

i bought an air scope kit from arizona speed and marine for my 96 impala SS. cost me $350.00 , ran the car on a dyno jet and saw 3 hp @ 5650 rpm. thats like $115.00 per horsepower. i was so embarrased and p****D i thru it the dumster. the dyno guys are still laughing!

my .02

peter d

Posted

You guys sure are nice saying a $200+ piece of plastic needs to be trimmed and ziptied so it works correctly and you still like it. :cheers:

Posted
ran the car on a dyno jet and saw 3 hp @ 5650 rpm. thats like $115.00 per horsepower.

A scoop on a dyno does nothing. It's pulling in the same amount of air. If you're running 100 mph though, it's going to shove more air in and give you more air. Scoops are worthless unless you're running fast.

 

I do agree that the air scoop is a piece of trash.

Posted

yup.. trash. or roadkill in my case....

 

water shouldnt be an issue.... you'd have to submerge the filter in water before you hydrolock your engine. Think about it whis way:

 

If you cut a hole ina straw and try to suck water out of it, it wont work until that hole is submerged...... same concept.

 

As far as the comment on a stock box w/ K&N filter goes, I agree.

 

The fit was terrible on the Volant. It took quite a bit of wrestling to get it onto the Throttle body.

 

O yea, Im still pissed that VOlant ignored my emails regarding the air scoop falling off... o well...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,470 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...