Jump to content

door handle upgrade


fossil

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've upgraded the door handles and tailgate handle on my 05 Sierra Ext Cab to the ones with the chrome handle and painted bezel. Job was real easy, it took about 1hr and 20 min, taking my time.

For those of you thinking about doing it here's some detailed instructions. Previous model years may be a bit different as you may have to remove the power lock switch assy and a bolt inside the vicinity of the trim panel where that fits in place.

 

1. Tools req'd: 10 mm wrench, 10 mm 1/4" drive socket, 9/32" 1/4" drive socket. 1/4 drive socket extension. 1/4" drive ratchet, Small blade screwdriver, torx screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, push in retainer removal too or a small needle nose plier with a 45 degree bend.

 

2. Extra materials. small roll of water proof duct tape ( to re-seal plastic cover and temporarily hold handle assy in place)

 

3. Remove mirror trim panel by pulling out from the top. It justs snaps in place by two retainers.

 

4.Remove the sliding door lock by prying out with a small screwdriver. Pry at the aft portion of the door lock slider. It too just pops out.

 

5.Remove screw behind the sliding door lock with a phillips screwdriver.

 

6.Remove screw ( 9/32") beside the door arm rest

 

7.Pop out the cover plate behind the inside door handle. Pop out at aft area with a small screw driver. Again its held in place by two retainer clips.

 

8. Pop out door panel retainer clip at front of door with retainer removal tool or the needle nose pliers.

 

9. Pop off trim cap on rear door to expose the torx head screw and remove.

 

10.Pull straight up on the door trim panel to remove. The power door/lock switch assy can remain in place. No need to remove. I do suggest to remove the courtesy lamp wire at the rear door panel. Let the door trim panel hang to the side forwared out of the way.

 

11. Remove the plastic wrap around the vicinity of the door handle area and just peel it forward to expose the door area to get your arms in there.

 

12. Run some duct tape over the outside door handle to temporarily hold in place.

 

13. Remove the plastic plug aft of the door and unscrew the 10mm nut inside with socket and ratchet. carefull not to drop..Put a bit of grease on the socket to help hold the nut in place.

 

14. Reach up and remove the 2 remaining nuts with the 10mm wrench. You'll have to feel around in there a bit and use a small flashlight to help locate.

 

15. Remove the duct tape and pull the handle assy out and remove the linkage from the assy.

 

For the door with the lock assy, remove that with the unit removed by spreading the retainer clip a bit and pulling out. Re-install by pushing back into the new door handle assy. Make sure you transfer the o-ring from the old unit which sits inside the handle assy. Also take your time with your hands inside the door as there are sharp edges in there.

Reverse the procedure to assemble and re-secure the plastic wrap with waterproof duct tape.

 

16. For the tailgate handle, loosen the 3 bolts holding it in place but do not remove at this time. Pull off the bezel starting at the top portion. It's also held in place by two foam tape strips on each side. Remove the linkage arms and then remove the 3 bolts and remove the handle assy. Re-install new tailgate handle with bolts loose as before. Snap in the bezel...carefull the two top plastic clips are very fragile and easily broken. Re-tighten the bolts and you're done.

post-17763-1166049970_thumb.jpg

post-17763-1166049970_thumb.jpg

post-17763-1166049970_thumb.jpg

post-17763-1166049970_thumb.jpg

Posted

Cool Thanks!

I'd like to do this on my '02.

Anybody know where I might find a pair of handles like these in pewter?

I've seen them on ebay for 125 plus shipping but would like to find a bit cheaper.

Posted
Cool Thanks!

I'd like to do this on my '02.

Anybody know where I might find a pair of handles like these in pewter?

I've seen them on ebay for 125 plus shipping but would like to find a bit cheaper.

 

 

 

 

Ebay has jennings chevrolet and number 1 gm parts if you want to buy now. Also, if you`ll get the part numbers, order online from partszoneonline.com or gmpartsdirect.com heck of alot cheaper than the dealer.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    JimmyB4
    Newest Member
    JimmyB4
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 774 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’ve own several successful businesses. I’ve bought homes and lived in different states. I’d witness several generations buy homes and survive in different economic circumstances. You get awful sippy when people have different experiences than you do. You live a life. I’ve lived a life. It seems our experience has been different. You can point out generalized statistics. Some people learn how to thrive when the odds are against them. Living in different states does make a difference in a persons quality of life and economic outcomes and opportunities. That’s a fact Jack. It’s my truth, my life. Hard work and long hours the right environment made my families life easier. And yes moving to a different state increased the odds of that happening. Stats are generalized. People who thrive don’t make excuses. They beat the odds. Others get mad and point to those statistics. I guess that’s you. My post pointed out how you helped people beat the odds. Somehow your panties got in a wad. Go figure. 
    • Good question, I don't remember for sure but I believe it was the HD. I will check and get back to you.
    • Point of the post sir was that while both wages and cost are rising EVERYWHERE; the cost is rising faster EVERYWHERE than the ability to buy EVERYWHERE. We're not going down the location rabbit hole. I'm aware of what economic migration is. I've lived in four states including Texas.   It's what "Purchasing Power" means.   I'm not telling you what I think. I'm telling what the government, your government, data shows.   It wasn't an argument. It wasn't a suggestion. It was a statement of FACT. You are absolutely entitled to your own opinion. Your not entitled to your own facts. If you and I were, they wouldn't be facts.    fact /făkt/   noun Knowledge or information based on real occurrences. "an account based on fact; a blur of fact and fancy." Something demonstrated to exist or known to have existed. "Genetic engineering is now a fact. That Chaucer was a real person is an undisputed fact." A real occurrence; an event. "had to prove the facts of the case." The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, 5th Edition • More at Wordnik   If you'd like to disagree call your Senator or Representative and let him know his departments are in error. But you and I? We are not doing this. 
    • Probably a one and done post, but do you have a CEL on the dash? Was having issues with my transmission, fortunately only a week, and it turned out to be the transmission harness. Valve body was in good shape, so new harness with all the sensors attached, new fluid, and filter. Seems to have worked so far?
    • Two interesting tidbits of information which are NOT related were just released.   One, regarding the possible thrust bearing issues / engine failures with the 3.0. Demonworks just did a segment in which they believe they may have found "a" or "the" cause of thrust bearing failures: A missing thrust bearing. If the engine doesn't have all its thrust bearings from the factory, the missing bearing can cause extra play which ends up destroying a nearby thrust bearing which then sends metal through the engine.       Of other importance, Lake Speed Jr released some interest information regarding oil weight selection for the 3.0. Comparisons of:   AcDelco 0w20 Dexos D Mobil 1 ESP x2 0w20 Dexos D Mobil 1 ESP x2 0w30 Mobil 1 ESP x4 0w40. Mobil Delvac 5w40   Spoiler alert: The Mobils are PAO Ester -base and the ACDelco is a Group III base. Mobil shows lower wear in their tests for similar weights. Additive packages between 20-30-40 weight ESP's appear to be the same, but only 0w20 is Dexos D licensed. Wear is even more reduced with 30 and 40 weight ESP although all perform very well and resist shear and provide very similar viscosities within temperature operating ranges in the 3.0.   There are even more surprises, so just go watch it.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...