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Removed the GMC on the tailgate, did the rims.

Platidipped my rims dark bronze, pictures dont show the bronze very well.

after reading through 300+ pages, I also agree it's not solely a tire problem. I'd still lean towards the resonant frequency of structure coinciding with vehicle speed or perhaps torsional/lateral vibration issues developing within the powertrain.

Definitely not a tire problem. I have Toyos that road force less than 9lbs and my truck shakes like Michael j fox (sorry if I offended anyone). My 2013 Sierra got bought back for similar issues and I was able to get into a new 2014 Sierra and this one now shakes too. I am going to be visiting the Ford lot this week. I know the grass isn't always greener but it's gotta be a little better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice wheels bro lol

After reading every post in this thread, I don't think it's a tire problem.

I absolutely love mine. 14 crew cab gmc z71 brownstone. I really want to paint my chrome bumpers the same color.

Very clean looking bird! My dad sort of did the same thing. He traded his in on a CtsV and tried going back to the dealer a few days later but they'd already sold it. I had one about 6 or 7 years ago but had a lady run a red light and hit me and totaled it. I knew I had to get one again so I bought my current one last year. I'm very happy to have one again. Sent from my iPhone 6+

Finally gave mine a bath and cleaned it all up

Nice! I knew IMMEDIATELY after I sold mine, that it was a mistake! I actually called the guy right after I sold it to him and offered him a $1000 profit after owning it for one day! He politely told me "No F-ing Way"...

Gas mileage will be fine as long as it's a 2-2.5" level. Mine has remained pretty much the same after leveling 1.8" and removing the front air dam and running boards. That said my uphill gas mileage seems to tank quicker. I've since put an airaid MIT on it though so maybe it mitigates the effects if i keep my foot out of it. http://www.bilsteinus.com/fileadmin/user_upload/user_upload_us/pdfs/Bil_LevShks_WebArticle.pdf There are essentially two ways of leveling these trucks and depending on what you do with yours may make one more viable than the other. The most common method is spacer kits. Of the spacer kits the most common is the strut extension kits. These kits go on top of the strut mount and below the strut where the shock connects to the lower control arm. They're cheap and don't cost much to install. The downside is that it will likely stiffen your ride, though most for the 14+ say it doesn't. My brothers 2012 Chevy however is rough as hell that might be attributed to his OEM twin tube shocks though. My cousin's 2009 sierra with ranchos and a rough country 2.5" kit rides fine to me. You will also limit the up travel of your suspension and if your doing some hard trailing or anything taking use of wheel travel when the suspension collapses and shock compresses that lower spacer is going to push the lower shock mount into the body putting stress on it. The other type of spacer is a spring-preload spacer. Of which i have never seen for the 14+ models but it would be more ideal than a strut extension spacer IMO. A quote from bilstein on the matter. "A Spring Preload Spacer installs between the upper spring perch and the top of the coil spring. The spacer applies more preload to the spring, raising the static spring rate, which increases the ride height of the vehicle. This type of spacer kit has two major shortcomings: loss of rebound damping control, and loss of free down-travel or “droop” The other method of leveling/lifting is new struts and coilovers. The latter being very expensive and usually accommodates new UCAs for the bigger shock body and spring so that's another 500$ at the least tacked on. But these are adjustable from stock-3" of lift. They're the best option you can get without upgrading the suspension as a whole. They offer the best dampening, most wheel travel, and FWIW the most height adjustment. Coilovers usually range anywhere from 600$ on the low end for a pair to 1500$ for something like fox, icon, or King. Rear shocks will run you 100$ or so a piece and then the install and likely new UCAs. The struts on the other hand are a mid-range expense. Rancho, Pro-comp, and Bilstein all produce leveling struts. These struts raise the front end of the vehicle by raising the spring perch higher, while maintaining full amount of wheel travel and likely the best ride for the money. Now some will say the 5100s on max setting ride harsh, however that has not been my experience. The ride is more stiff and controlled but large bumps, whoops, and railroad tracks the truck glides over. Body roll and bed sway have been significantly reduced, and i no longer am bouncing in the cab like i was with my stock ranchos. Estimated expense for this method is probably in the 800$ range installed. It will run you 400ish for two struts and rear shocks, and probably around 350-400$ for an install. You can do it yourself but you need a spring compressor because the 5100s use the factory spring. Now the Rancho quicklifts come with their own spring. The 7000mt and pro-comps both use the factory i think. But you will need an alignment either way. "The 5100 Series Leveling Shock will allow for 1-2” more up-travel than a strut extension. As for the droop or down-travel, the extended length of the shock also allows for more overall travel. The goal is to maximize wheel travel without inducing any ball joint or driveline bind. What we have found in most cases is that the OEM manufacturers have designed a coilover unit using a short travel shock with long shock body. What this means is we can increase the extended length of the shock without effecting the collapsed length. With the 5100 Series Leveling Shock is installed, you will gain more wheel travel while maintaining the factory compression stops. The lift on the 5100 Series leveling shocks is achieved by increasing the preload on the factory coil. By adding more preload, the shock is designed with more rebound damping as compared to the O.E. or standard aftermarket replacement shock. Considering that Bilstein is the world leader in monotube gas pressure shocks absorbers, we are in the unique position to offer a leveling shock with the perfect damping rates, optimizing your ride and handling characteristics. The result is a much smoother and better controlled ride than the factory coilover set up can deliver." Now the question really is what do you plan on doing with your truck? I went with shocks for peace of mind that i would have full suspension travel. Spacer kits are fine, though they might have some disadvantage plenty and i mean plenty of people run them for 200,000 miles with little to no issues. If i was to go with a spacer kit it'd likely be a coil spacer. If i'm off on any of this guys feel free to chime in and correct me.

Thought this was a cool picture so figured I'd share. Sent from my iPhone 6+

That turned out real nice! I just did mine over the weekend in black. Haven't put them back on the truck yet.

I had cars and trucks with three on the tree with better radios! My cheap (39.95) headphone set for noise reduction while mowing grass has better reception!

2014 Iridium All Terain

Do you have a half ton AND a 3/4 ton high country!!?? Edit: oops, i think I understand now, you saw one you liked lol, my bad!!

I did my frame yesterday with rust encapsulator paint. Supposed to be one of the best spray on solutions to prevent rust. I'll probably follow up with some fluid film.

I like Tungsten much better than Black.

I'm lazy & still haven't done them. The chrome looks so out of place

BFG KO2 LT 275 60 20 no level no lift no rubbing

I might have the only regular cab on here. LOL

I like the overhead rockers. They blend in very well. I'd love to see what you come up with. If someone can match the finish on this thing with a solid plate or something like that that'd really be cool. I imagine you could run 2 of the 2x switch plates on the 2wd cover without having to do that though, it may be a little tight though. Hard to say. From the back the 4wd module and trailer brake modules are about the same size. I'm still waiting on parts. Apparently if you ask amazon to use saver shipping they ship it in a hobo's backpack and ask him to find a train to your destination. The switches though should be here pretty soon. (the LED lights are a side project frankly.) I've been itching to dive into this thing. Just checked shipping on the LEDs.. they have left the country for some reason.. guy dropped them off in CA and whoever the carrier is (amazon refuses to tell me) sent it to ontario. Why on earth would they do that? Guh.. ridiculous.

After reading thread from start to end I decided to go with the following: 1. Magnaflow muffler part no 12909 2. Red Tail Performance RTP-070B 3. Eliminate Exhaust Flapper Valve I took advantage of a coupon through Advance Auto so muffler is $119 including shipping. Might be too tame for some but as long as it's a little rumbly on start up and idle should be fine for me. Thanks to everyone who wrote their experiences.

Mounted and wired my 30" light bar. Looks good might just have to aim it up a little also plasti dipped my honeycomb . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Amazing they didn't notice this during the millions of miles of testing they claimed.