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leveling kit and 24's and 35's

I haven't taken measurements on mine yet but I went with the 2.25" Readylift level on the front and it looked nose high to me. I have since added an inch taller block in the back to give it a slight rake.

After 8 moths of back and forth with GM and my dealership I'm throwing in the towel. My Local dealer has been great and done all they can to help, but GM is useless. They sent a field Engineer out with my Chuggle and fish Bite issue. They agree it is there but it is minimal and the Official Verdict is that the truck is designed to run this way. The dealership tried to argue with me to the tech and his only reply was he has seen worse. My tech told him last couple times we drove it was worse when we took it out the past few times, and re-flash has not worked. the Patch they came out with has not worked. So I have to drive a truck that is designed to drive like crap. My Solution, the Black Bear Tuner is on its way to my house. I am positive it is a tuning issue. GM is in my Blood but this pisses me off to no end. I shouldn't have to buy the tuner to correct a factory issue under warranty. The dealer is going to try and help me and reimburse my money for the tuner if he can get it approved, but he also wants me to come back and let him know if this solves the issue to shove it in the Engineers faces at his next Tech Meeting. Had to rant a bit, but cant stand when a company wont stand behind their product, and give bullsh*t answers.

$500 for two of these???? I'll buy a $50 black set and pass on some fancy tow hooks.

I’m in this boat. Can’t stand front wheel drive. Or even front drive based AWD. And they absolutely are a PITA to work on. Personally I still miss the panther platform vehicles. I had a 2008 Lincoln town car that I loved. Should’ve kept it but for all the crap I got about driving it.Traded it in for the wife’s car and bought a 1/2 ton truck instead. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm sure it's done to improve the mpg by 0.00001 indont nt give a flip of it uses another nickel a month in gas to shift like a normal vehicle should why people worry about mpg and don't consider depreciation is really strange I have never and will never buy a brand new vehicle I buy mine 5-7 years old at an auction last one was a 7 yr old 4wd EB expedition in excellent condition with every available option that cost $51k new and I was the top bidder at $6400 so the person bought it new lost $43k . But they were probably constantly complaining about the 11.5 mpg in town and I wont be buying any more late model vehicles either they are intentional made to be so complicated that no one can work on them when my expy wears out , likely the vvt or transmission , my next vehicle will be the nicest 88-91 K-5 Blazer I can find . I need reliable 4wd SUV or truck that can be maintained by an average mechanic I don't need the freaking space shuttle on wheels with 18 computers and 26 miles of wiring .

Is it possible that the fix involves changes that would make the trucks fail emissions or reduce their fuel economy? This may explain why the engineers won't fix it. Did Justin say what changes were made to get it drive normal?

Thanks again (2nd time) Phil for all your help! After helping me with my father's truck, Phil worked his magic again and helped me with mine. Sorry for the bad pics, I'll get some better ones in daylight & once I get the chrome caps on.

what's wrong with defenders, getting some great reviews on tire rack. Was about to pull the trigger on defender ltx m/s

Here’s my 2 cents on that topic but I’m no mechanic so take it with a grain of salt... I think it’s a combination of each truck is different, peoples goals are different and budgets are different. For instance, I would have chosen a 2.5” setup if BDS made one. I set out only considering a BDS product for their “no BS” warranty. To me it was nice piece of mind. Much more cost effective level kits out there but to me the increased price over XYZ company is like paying for an insurance policy. BDS only makes a 2” so that’s the height I went with. As a little side note under the category of witch craft; my trucks fender measurements are not consistent pre and post new wheels and tires which makes no sense to me but the tape measure doesn’t lie. With the BDS level installed and running factory 18’s with evenly worn 265/65/18 Duratracs I was 38.5” ground to center of the fender in the front and 39” in the rear. With the new 275/65/20’s installed I’m 40.5” front and rear. Parked on the same patch of flat concrete and both times the truck was topped off with fuel. Bed was empty both times. I have no idea how the f*ck I gained 1/2” in the front.... Only have 100 miles on them so far but I am very very pleased. I debated between another set of Duratracs, Grabber AT2’s or the WildPeaks. Loved the Duratracs but ultimately crossed them off solely due to cost. I couldn’t get them for cheaper than $313/piece. Then it came down to the other two. For me I liked the wider channels in the WildPeaks, the side lugs and the fact the tires were newer. (Grabbers AT2 production has previously been stopped for good so any new sets in inventory were produced about a year ago or possibly even longer according to my tire guy...) Initial 100 mike review of the WildPeaks is as follows. Also if it matters; this truck is a pavement princess and will never even see a dirt road let alone serious off road duty. 1) Great in the wet. We caught heavy rain on Monday and was as sure footed as ever. 2) Slight increase in noise over the Duratracs from 40mph and up but not enough for me to regret the choice. Plus nothing a little more volume on the radio can’t fix for long trips 3) No tread wobble of any kind and no tram-lining. 4) Great appearance on the truck. Bunch of guys at work have various AT’s on their trucks and the general consensus was it was the most aggressive looking tire out of all of the ones owned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i have had every TSB and update available. Noting from factory has helped, but i solved the issue myself, with help from Black Bear Performance!!! i sent them my read file and told them the issues im having, they sent me the tune last night ant this is the first day with the truck after 20k miles it didnt lug and chug at ALL! I will be going to my dealer to show them the results to just shake it in the engineers face. What good is a warranty if they wont do anything about it anyway!

Well, that makes far more sense. The Vortec 6.0, although known for durability and endurance, is not known for outstanding fuel economy. Also, it is not a fair comparasion to compare a half ton Toyota to a three quarter ton GM in regards to ride and economy. All three quarter tons ride harshly when empty, but the tradeoff is a lot more load capacity. They also weigh a lot more than a half ton, thus affecting fuel economy numbers.

Tundras are the truck to have if you like 12MPG, bloated styling, a frame as rigid as a wet noodle, and a cheap interior with outdated infotainment systems. Real upgrade, I'd say..

Turned out exactly as I envisioned. 6" Rancho, 35/12.5/20 STT Pros; no rubbing.

I’m going backwards. I just ordered a set of OEM wheels like below. I’ll install them when I decide on new tires. Probably going with a mild tread AT. Something not as noisy as the STMaxx.

Another bulb out issue with my Morimoto HID kit for my Sierra. Same issue I had last year, took it apart and it magically worked again. Just noticed this tonight ... on the passenger side so hopefully I don’t have to remove the damn air box. Ugh. This is why I hate worrying about aftermarket stuff for reliability reasons. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great!

Not today, but on Oct 30, my truck turned 2 years old. Couldn't be more happy with my purchase 2 years ago.

Picked up a 10 pack of heavy duty, metal body LED's for $8. Tapped the dome light for interior. And for just under $50 I picked up the wiring harness for the bed lights and tapped it with some 8" COB LED's for the bed.

Awesome! That's a beautiful area! I've ridden 4-wheelers all around the national forest NE of Gunnison in the summer time. Good luck with the hunt! I'm sure the snow makes hiking even more of a challenge!

Fuel Maverick 20x9 ET+20 Falken Wildpeak AT3 275/65/20 2” BDS level kit Currently only rubbing in reverse while going downhill and turning the wheel. Some testing at my end shows the contact is actually on my weathertech mudflaps. With the flaps removed the tire doesn’t make contact. Debating about notching the inner corner of the flap or just living with it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And thennnnnnnnnnnnn? SEMA is over...Thanks for any info!!

Message Block8head he custom makes them. Here is the one I have in my truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i know, i am one of 6 at this dealership with the same issue. almost 50K for a truck that drives like crap, sucks

When GM doesn't understand the problem or know how to fix it, they say its "normal". I'm half joking, but you are not the first person to post a similar experience on here. Good luck, I hope the tuner makes your truck more enjoyable to drive.

So you have a non Flex Fuel LY5. The LMG (cast iron block) and LC9 (aluminum block) 5.3s are both Flex Fuel and you could run your intake and fuel rail and your computer on them. 2010 and newer versions of these engines had VVT so watch for that.

i think it’s the perfect setup for these modern big body styled trucks 22x10 AFs on 33” Ridge grapps 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L 4.5" Zone 22x10 AF Grips 33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers Instagram @wildchevys

I cant seem to post pics from my computer unless its to my profile, but this is my current set up just want to get 37's under it.

I drive a 17 owned by the company I work for and have noticed the same thing it's very irritating no wonder GM had to get bailed out by the fedgov I have not taken it in for repairs because I know GM is too stupid to be able to fix it I figured it was something to do with the CAFE ratings , it's really irritating that this stupid truck will up shift into 6th gear doing 35 mph uphill so that when go up the next slight hill in a residential neighborhood mashing the gas pedal does nothing to increase power until you totally floor it causing it to slam down into 3rd and take off like a rocket , there is no way to accelerate in between these two modes unless you drive it in the Manual mode and shift it your self Using the trailer tow mode helps but the "grade braking " slamming down gears every time you ease off the gas pedal is irritating too Lexus had rev matching downshifts about ten years ago and GM can't do it ?? it's also hard to believe that they sell a vehicle without power mirrors and if you don't buy the option package with the remote control to lock and unlock the doors GM has purposely written the software so it can never be added later The previous company i worked for had crewmax tundras and wow, that's the truck to have . Plenty of power and a very intuitive transmission , rides a hell of a lot better too