Leaderboard

I searched for the discussion from a while back where we discussed the level of gear oil in our new trucks. Personally I added a full qt to bring my diff to the level prescribed by GM in their service instructions on this model (min of .4" or 10mm from bottom of fill hole) I wanted to share my experience further since I just completed servicing the rear diff on my truck. It now has about 5200 miles on it with around 3000 of those miles pulling a 5th wheel and cargo weighing around 13k. I removed the cover and wiped out the bottom of the housing. I then cleaned the cover and wiped the sludge off of the magnet (seemed typical for a new truck) It then took exactly 4 qts of fluid to fill the diff to the correct level. I even went so far as to drain the remaining fluid from the jugs and then put the last 16 oz or so in with a fluid hand pump I have. Very little was wasted. I just wanted to share the quantity info since it had been discussed before. I tried to find the old thread but couldnt along with the service document I know I save but I couldnt find either one. Scott

New owner of a 2015 Sierra 5.3 here. Might be beating a dead horse on this one, but is there any preventative maintenance or measures that can be taken to prevent the supposedly inevitable failure of the 6l80? Currently the truck drives very smooth, no indications of a failing torque converter. Previous owner kept all service records, nothing major ever needed on the truck, also never replaced transmission fluid fwiw. Was reading about installing an upgraded torque converter, is this a step others would recommend, considering the truck seems to be doing fine as is currently? Or just keep plugging along and hope for the best? Trying to keep this rig for the long term as it is my dd. Any input appreciated, thx in advance Edit: 82k miles

The service manager claimed that they had one truck if not two have their hub bearings fail and not sure if that was a last years thing or i the last couple of years and he stated it was from a low oil fill from the factory and they figured that the hub bearings were starved for oil and failing and feeding the diff filings and so the whole thing was either rebuilt or a whole new housing installed, covered on warranty however they properly repaired the truck. So he knew there was a potential issue and that was why he tells me they check the trucks now. Well either he was stretching their check of the trucks off the car hauler or his shop is telling him they are checking it, something wasn't adding up. Of course this issue originates with GM and their supplier of the axle not putting enough oil in it. As to your diff, odds are you will never know what caused the issue, if it was lack of lubrication or some defect with assembly or a bearing or gear that can start the chain reaction of contaminating everything with filings. Ford has been having some issues with some of their new larger updated diffs piling up with relatively few miles on it also, not sure what is the cause of that. As dumb as this may sound I would check your oil level just to make sure it is topped off as its always possible that the hubs don't quite get filled and yet seems full in the pumpkin, depends on the axle and if the tech is patient in waiting for the oil to find its home and settle down to its true level. Won't hurt anyway and in a few thousand miles do an initial change on it and see what is on the magnet in the diff or have that shop do it ( or I assume there is a magnet stuck into the lower part of the pumpkin ). That diff should have gone for hundreds of thousands of miles with reasonable maintenance with no issues at all.

Mine does. I cannot speak beyond 2024.

At least this time you're letting folks know that their information will be shared. Wish you had let me know when I bought my truck that you would be sharing my driving info with my insurance company. Not sure I'd trust GM with any further information about me or my truck at this point though.

I wish I was smart enough to install a drain plug in the pan when I had my tranny rebuilt last summer lol

Mine does it too. With all four doors and the tailgate. It’s my least favorite thing about my truck so I guess that’s not bad. It’s so annoying because it will sometimes do it a couple times if I’m loading my bed and also opening doors. If it only did it with drivers door once it wouldn’t be too bad but why all the doors? Is someone going to enter the rear door or tailgate to start the truck?

Some things never change. I just checked my new 2025 3500 Dmax and found it a qt below the Chevrolet service fill level. This is especially aggravating since GM claims its not an issue due to the fact that they dont get any warranty claims for it yet its not part of the PDI. I specifically asked for mine to be checked but once again the dealer dropped the ball and didnt do it. I am a little salty about it.

I have pain that moves. Usually because I’ll switch using my left when my right hurts. Usually when I make my back mad, what follows is my stomach muscles from favoring my back. I’ve learned to power through just easing up a little. Over time you can become intolerant of certain foods. I used to drink Diet Coke like water. Sweet and low in my coffee. Quit both. Become intolerant. Coffee, water, some tea. You’re convinced something is bad wrong. Only to remember why you quit eating those frozen cherries for reason. One thing I’m on is my teeth. After 40 years of not going one abscess change that. Every six months I get them checked.

I've been told that I have a high pain threshold. However, I don't accept undiagnosed aches and pains. My older brother and sister both died prematurely from health issues that were preventable through early detection. I am not a hypochondriac but I never want to hear my Doctor say, "If you only you saw me earlier...". I'm not a Doctor which has been proven by the times my GPs diagnosis has differed from my self diagnosis. Your Doctor won't complain about you seeing him too often, but he will if you see him after harboring an ache or pain for a long period of time.

Thanks @newdude Didn't know they changed it to a predictive system. Sucks in my opinion. Predictive doesn't know if the vehicle is frequently running in dusty environments or is 'never' win dusty environments. Did they do that with fuel filters too -- on 3.0 or 6.6 Duramax? I (think I ) understand using predictive for oil life but not for air and diesel fuel filters

It’s good to use resources available to you for clarity. Even the internet. I can’t remember any older person I grew up around talking about age related issues. I would ask my father in law if he had any pain. Up until he passed he would say no. When I retired at 58 I would see him working around his house in his 80s when I visited. I have a great general practitioner I see yearly to get my blood pressure medicine. I could easily be seeing a specialist for that. As well as a pain management specialist and a physical therapist. My additional insurance company for health care will not leave me alone. Calls every week wanting to do a wellness visit. I could be going weekly somewhere to visit specialist. My wife does for reasons I express before. So that would be two times a week. I’ve learned my body. Know what’s normal. My wife doesn’t seem to recognize normal pain with aging. I don’t say much it’s her normal. Some people have a very low tolerance. How do I know? I only know me.

Seems to work like the GM Oil Life Monitor system, best I can read from the description and operation. When to Change Engine Air Filter If equipped, this feature provides an indication of when to change the engine air filter. It is based on driving conditions, which can cause when to change, and can vary greatly. It is possible an air filter change may not be indicated for up to four years. Replace the engine air filter when the REPLACE NOW message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC). This should be done as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1,000 km). The system must be reset after the engine air filter is changed. When a REPLACE AT NEXT OIL CHANGE message displays, this indicates that the engine air filter change is necessary at the next engine oil change. Air Cleaner Monitor Setup For an overview of the component/system, refer to: Owner's manual The Air Cleaner Monitor Setup is used to inform the driver when the next service interval is required. The Air Cleaner Monitor displays the Air Cleaner Life Remaining as a percentage. The Air Cleaner Monitor Setup can be used to Disable/Enable the monitor and Reset the Air Cleaner Life Remaining percentage. The control module K20 monitors the following: Air Cleaner Monitor Test Result Ambient Air Temperature Distance Traveled Engine Coolant Temperature Engine Load Engine Speed Humidity Sensor Intake Air Temperature Signal Time Since Last Service Interval Reset Total Mass Air Flow Vehicle Speed If maintenance is required a message will be activated via serial data@ P16 Instrument Cluster — P9 Driver Information Center Display This procedure resets the control module learned values of the component/system: Air Cleaner Monitor

I think it detects the vacuum between the filter and intake or pressure drop across filter. Either way, the higher the blockage, the higher the vacuum or larger the pressure drop. At 14,000 miles since change it would seem likely that there is at least a little extra restriction. I'd be checking for any leaks around or after the filter. (Old school filter minders just measured the vacuum on engine side of the filter)

2023 GMC AT4 with Method Wheels and 285/70R17 BFG KO3 Tires.

GM actually admitted it didn’t do much when there was a chip shortage. They sold trucks without them being able to cylinder deactivate. The guts were there. Not the chips to deactivate. If memory serves they said 1/2 to 1 mile per gallon at best. I believe they rebated 50$. During my testing on my truck I got 1/2 mile per gallon at 72 miles per gallon with it on. I will never buy a GM with it. I have it on the odyssey. But it didn’t cost me anything.

The 2000-2002 trucks run a P01 controller, that in it self has different emissions standards because every year or every couple years the emissions standards did change. Also those years were drive by cable throttle bodies compared to 2003-2007's that changed to drive by wire throttle control. The 2003+ trucks run a P59 computer, which really was just a change to drive by wire. The engine themselves stayed the same and mostly all of the controls of the engine stayed exactly the same besides how the trucks runs with drive by wire. The way each of these computers and model year trucks detect problems with certain emissions related codes or say knock sensor codes, that all stayed the same. No year is really more or less sensitive to self reporting of a problem. All of those LQ4 engines can suffer from the same problems. Knock sensor codes are extremely common to the LS engine, sensors go bad, water and moisture always get trapped in the rear knock sensor hole. The harness always goes bad and needs replacing. In your case, if you are just pulling the engine from the 2005 and putting it in a 2003 chassis, the truck and computer are not going to know any different. Just clean up the engine prior to install. Install new OEM knock sensors, install a new OEM harness and fix anything else you think needs done before putting that engine in the 2003 truck.

Oooh, a biased 3rd party source. Puhleez! Stop pretending that I said the 10-speed was perfect. Scroll up and you won't find that I ever said that. Right now, the difference between the 8 speed and the 10 speed is time. 8 speed has been around longer, so it's had more time for the bugs to be worked out. As for me, (i hope you're paying attention @newdude), 2020 with the 6.2 that has 80,000+ miles and no issues. Since @newdudeseems to an expert at all things automotive due to his numerous comments about all the other vehicle makes and models out there, I have a question. Is the 8 speed in the new Toyota Tacoma and 4Runner the same is what's in the Colorado/Silverado/Sierra? I've seen reports of major issues in the Tacoma, including failure. Iirc, both GM and Toyota are being supplied by Aisin. What's really sad about this is your hurt feelings have taken this thread off topic. If you're going to make an inaccurate statement, expect to get a response.

not sure were in this forum i read it/saw it. but for those who never heard of this... its awesome. as we know the rear seat back doesnt fold down/just the base up. by removing the rear seat full bench or the60/40 it works the same. but once removed you will seethe 2 back hooks on bench/3 on 60/40 that lock back rest to cab. cut 2.5 inches off the tabs. no more than 2.5 in. but 2.5 seems to be the magic #. after the cut. give the tabs a small tweek out.. an reinstall. now when u fold up ur back will unlock n fold down or lock the base up w the back etc. it allows you to access behind the seat. i did my amp rack there an theres room to put whatever u like. hold seat back to wall an let base go.. full lock. love it..

My truck has 58k miles on it and I already have hard shifts pretty frequently with the 6L80. The torque converter swap is not something I'm capable of doing in my apartment parking space, but I do want to attempt some of these other recommendations. Already changed the fluid early this year which didn't seem to have a major effect.

2WD 4/6 DROP

Frustrated to say I'm now a part of the club as well. Let me preface this by saying I've owned multiple Ford's and drove hundreds of thousands of miles with never being stranded on the side of the road (call it luck, whatever). My truck was recently totaled and I decided to give GMC a go. Purchased a used 2023 Sierra 3500HD Denali L5P with ~33k miles, just 2 weeks ago (absolutely loved the truck so far). Over Easter weekend I traveled 3 states away to visit family, planning to tow a trailer back to my home state. The night before Easter I was topping the truck off with fuel, getting back onto the highway, and as soon as the truck went to shift above 6th gear, limp mode was activated, P0747/P0700 present. Obviously the dealerships are closed on Easter, I dropped the truck at a local dealership Monday morning (4/21). They complete their diagnosis and confirm the Valve Body needs to be replaced. Surprise, new valve body is STILL on back-order, with NO ETA for the new part to be available. Dealership would not provide me with a loaner vehicle as I would have needed to drive it three states away. Understandable, I'll just work with GM when I get back home to get a loaner from a local dealer, right? Rental agency had no trucks available last minute that could tow, having to leave my trailer 3 states away as well. I've since returned home, (had to cover rental cost to get home) and the local dealership's won't provide me with a loaner as they're not the ones doing the repair on the truck. I've reached out to GM support, to which they offered a $44/day stipend for a rental vehicle. HOW am I supposed to replace a truck via rental for $44/day? And then I'm supposed to cover the charge for the rental until the truck is repaired, which we DON'T even have an ETA for!? Aside from the replacement/loaner vehicle situation in the meantime, HOW is this part still on back order? I have multiple trips planned over the next month that require a tow vehicle, and no timeline when I will be able to get my truck back. So now I'm covering the charge for a rental and about to start making payments on a $70k+ truck, that's THREE STATES AWAY. This is just unacceptable from a major OEM, and I'd be lying if I said I didn't regret going away from Ford.