redwngr

A jack and jackstands when under is another option. When plug back in and filter on, lower it back down to add oil. Then no need to roll truck Step stool for adding the oil when up on the ramps? (and, fwiw, my original confusion was because interpreted the original problem as reaching the filter rather than filler)

Priming is covered in the diesel supplement. Priming the Fuel System There is an electric priming pump that will bring fuel to the engine and eliminate air in the fuel lines. To prime the engine: 1. Correct any condition that caused the loss of prime. 2. Turn the ignition on for 30 seconds. (for pb start do not put foot on brake, just push button) Do not start the engine. The fuel pump will start priming. 3. Turn the ignition off, then back on, and crank the engine for 15 seconds. 4. If the engine does not start, repeat Steps 2 and 3 until the engine starts. If the engine does not start after repeating Steps 2 and 3 three times, turn the ignition off for 60 seconds. 5. Repeat the above steps until the engine starts. 6. If the engine starts, but does not run smoothly, increase the engine speed slightly. 7. If the engine starts and runs but stalls again, turn the ignition off for 60 seconds. 8. When the engine starts, let it idle for a few minutes and check the filter for any leaks.

Should be easy to reach that temp with the 1500.

I'm thinking the did away with the dipstick because there were so many that didn't check the level in the 6 speed using the instructions and ended up with incorrectly filled transmissions. Unfortunately removing dipstick inconveniences/harms those that do the servicing, level checks / adjustment correctly. It wasn't straight forward and simple. A cold check to confirm there is enough oil to run it to warm for the hot check. A hot check between 160 and 200F ( I get that in many/most situations the cold check is likely skipped) I don't know if this helps or hurts the discussion, but some may not be familiar with the procedure from the Allison used prior to intro of the 10 speed in 2020 From the 2018 Duramax supplement: (this was the 6.6L with the speed Allison) start cut and paste How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, the decision may be made to have this done by your dealer. If the decision is made to perform this operation, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or a false reading on the dipstick could result. Caution Too much or too little fluid can damage the transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if checking the transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if the vehicle has been driven: . When outside temperatures are above 32 °C (90 °F). . At high speed for quite a while. . In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. . While pulling a trailer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. 2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in P (Park). 3. With a foot on the brake pedal, run the engine for at least one minute and shift to D (Drive). Then shift to N (Neutral) and then R (Reverse) to fill the hydraulic system. Then, put the shift lever in P (Park). 4. Allow the engine to run at idle (500 – 800 rpm). Slowly release the brake pedal. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: Cold Check Procedure The purpose of the cold check is to determine if the transmission has enough fluid to be operated safely until a hot check can be made. The fluid level rises as fluid temperature increases. DO NOT fill above the COLD band if the transmission fluid is below normal operating temperatures. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. The transmission dipstick is near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview pg 85 for location. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and then pull it back out again. 3. Check the fluid level reading. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading. 4. If the fluid level is within the COLD band, the transmission may be operated until the fluid is hot enough to perform a hot check. If the fluid level is not within the COLD band, add or drain fluid as necessary to bring the level into the middle of the COLD band. 5. Perform a hot check at the first opportunity after the normal operating temperature of 71 °C (160 °F) to 93 °C (200 °F) is reached. 6. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. Hot Check Procedure The fluid must be hot to ensure an accurate check. The fluid level rises as temperature increases. 1. Operate the transmission in D (Drive) until the normal operating temperature of 71 °C (160 °F) to 93 °C (200 °F) is reached. 2. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 3. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and then pull it back out again. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading. 4. Safe operating level is within the HOT band on the dipstick. The width of the HOT band represents approximately 1.0 L (1.06 qt) of fluid at normal operating temperature. 5. If the fluid level is not within the HOT band, add or drain fluid as necessary to bring the fluid level to within the HOT band. 6. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. Consistency of Readings Always check the fluid level at least twice using the procedures described previously. Consistency is important to maintaining proper fluid level. If inconsistent readings persist, check the transmission breather to be sure it is clean and unclogged. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer. end cut and paste

34000/800 is 42.5 mph average. So what does that 42.5 mph average mean (other than it's about the same as 165,000/3900)??

Sounds like you need lower ramps and/or shallower pan to catch the oil

Are you using the 'editing a profile' section or the 'trailer feature setup' section? In 'Trailer Feature Set-up' there is a section for 'trailer tire pressure setup' - that is sounds like you've used for the original setup and for the 'new' trailer. There is also a section (a bunch of pages later) for 'Editing a Trailer Profile'. It has instructions for 'Tire Pressure Setup' when editing a profile. From the 'trailer feature setup section": TTPMS must learn the location of the installed tire sensors to show correct air pressure and temperature for each tire. To set up, use one of the following options or see a tire or trailer dealer for service. The learning process must be repeated when the trailer tires are rotated or replaced. See “Editing a Trailer Profile” later in this section for tire pressure sensor relearn information. from editing section: Editing a Trailer Profile (and Skipping the stuff before ttpms) Tire Pressure Setup Touch to set up the Trailer Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TTPMS) for the Trailer Profile. See “Trailer Tire Pressure Setup” previously in this section for details on the setup. Also, touch Tire Pressure Setup if the trailer tires were rotated or if the tire pressure sensors in the tires were replaced for this Trailer Profile. \ The vehicle will need to relearn the tire sensors and their locations. If TTPMS had been set up previously, the Select Number of Sensors screen will appear after touching Tire Pressure Setup. If the number of sensors has changed, select the number and touch Next. If a new number of sensors is selected, the Relearn Sensors pop-up will appear. Touch Cancel to go back or touch Relearn to overwrite the current sensors and begin the relearning process. See “Trailer Tire Pressure Setup” previously in this section. If number of sensors has not changed, touch Next and the Learn sensors screen will appear. On the Learn Sensors screen. Touch Relearn to overwrite the current sensors and begin the relearning process. See “Trailer Tire Pressure Setup” previously in this section. On the Learn Sensors screen, touch Next to go to the Edit Recommended Tire Pressure screen. On the Edit Recommended Tire Pressure screen, touch a number on the keypad to change the Recommended Tire Pressure for the trailer’s tires. This will change the number at which the vehicle displays alerts related to trailer tire pressure. Touch Done to return to the Trailer Profile view.

Revolutions per hour are much less idling vs running 65 or 70 down the highway. Still, I'd want to know if it's 4 oil changes (40,000 / 10,000) or if it's 8 oil changes (40,000 / 5,000) Is it at a dealer? Any sort of 'warranty' ?

For sure. Especially unloaded, since door label is for max gvw.

Background about where the DSSV shock development came from, and a little about why they use spool valves instead of orifices to restrict oil flow. The Mad Genius Behind Some of the Most Amazing Race Cars (roadandtrack.com)

Every tire size / load rating has a load vs recommended pressure table. Best to know the axle loads when using them. Daily driver not carrying anything but driver is likely heavier on front than rear. Loaded to vehicle max, the rear will likely be higher. In any case, fully loaded vs nearly empty will have different recommended pressures. Flotation Tire Load Inflation Chart - TirePressure.org (link should come up with pressure table for various flotation tires)

Or pull out (or download) the warranty manual and read about the coverage. Some 'environmental' paint issues are covered 12 mo/12,000mi

Do they Intentionally) drag the fan to provide load during cold weather / elevated idle starts?

The included Powertrain warranty is 160,000 km (100,000 miles) on the 3.0 (The bumper to bumper is the same as the gassers) Looks like a powertrain problem ...

If 'full open' is 158, is 'starts to open' also spec'd?

That's higher than mine ( a '21 LM2 ) runs for 55 - 60ish mph, steady speed on level ground with no wind and no trailer. (Perhaps unless it has just come from a period of stop/start in town type driving.) Takes 10 or 15 miles of 2 lane at those speeds for mine to warm and stabilize, but when it does it will be in the 175 -185 range. Only time I've seen 195 - 200 range was on a very hot day, after 4 or so hours of towing and then stuck in stop and go for 30 or 40 minutes due to an accident ahead. Perhaps the LZO trans cooling set-up is different.

Was truck in a garage or shop for battery change? Has it been out for a drive after the battery change?

they don't all require slow filling -- means it has something wrong. Warranty was included in the cost of the truck. Might as well use it.

Multiple posters on multiple 'GM' forums have reported problem with the platinum version -- even though the regular peak product has an excellent reputation. (GM and Peak blame each other for the issues with the platinum version)

Is friends truck a 22.5 ( refreshed ) truck?

OP's second picture -- the one that was called 'bubbling' is absolutely normal. Frames are hung by the front end and washed then dipped in a tank containing the waxy frame coating. Those 'bubbles' are thicker coating that didn't run/drain/drip off. That part of the crossmember would have been the 'bottom side' of the crossmember when it came out of the dip tank.

Copy the cd's to a usb. I used iTunes on my computer to convert the cd files to mp3 for this purpose. Won't be using a streaming app. Easy to put many many hours on a single usb. Of course, if desired, the library could also be stored on a phone rather than a usb. This style (Lexar S45 is an example) is the same size as the usb devices used for bt mouse or keyboard (so doesn't stick out much, which reduces chance of physical damage) They are not expensive it wanting to give it a try.

Bright light close to your eyes prevents them from adjusting as well to the lighting in the distance. If you are standing in a room/garage/shed at night, with the lights interior lights on it's gonna be tough to see well in outside areas that don't have good lighting. Shut off the inside lights and the eyes will adjust and improve the ability to see stuff in the poor lit areas outside. 1) Don't use fog lights on clear night if the objective is to see better at the limits of the headlights. 2) Be sure to use the dimmer and turn down the brightness of the dash.

I've run the def level down to the 500 mile warning (intentionally) on more than one truck. (one truck with segmented indicator and the other had the system that displays 'def level ok' when above 30% remainning and gives a % when below 30%) Anyway, both use the 500 miles to speed limit escalation. Both seem to be a mileage counter rather than relying on the level indicator. (on both the 500 mile message counted down one mile for each mile driven) Seems like the def level indicator is also trying to do some sort of range estimate -- so is wrong when the rate of usage changes drastically. Usage should be in ratio to the fuel usage, so if changing from daily driver duties to towing the range estimate changes quickly. I've never taken on to the 65 mph speed limit. In the areas I was running, 65mph wouldn't have been the end of the world.

Swirl marks have always been an issue -- even long before the paints were changed. Easiest to see on dark glossy colours.