Daly

I've been following this guy for a bit. He's swapping a 3.0l 4cyl boat engine (which he's putting a turbo on), corvette independent rear suspension, and 6 speed out of same corvette in to his S10. It's not a standard build which is why I like it. https://youtu.be/gsUd6wxoPlQ

He went to the dealer and asked what his trade in value was. That tells the dealer he is looking to trade. All they see someone potentially desperate to sell, they are trying to get the best deal they can for themselves. Can he get more, sure but he's gonna have to sit on it and wait for them to call back. That puts the ball in his court helping him dictate a better deal for himself.

You guys saying $55k is too much are assuming he's American. But If he's Canadian thats far price. Hell my 6.2 LT Trail Boss sticker price was at $69k Canadian.

18k depreciation sounds about right. New vehicles lose the bulk of the value the minute you sign the papers. If the dealer is offering $37k they are probably going to sell it for $42k. Another option is to walk away, keep the truck and wait for the dealer to call you back. You might get $40k if they are looking. But as it stands you went to them, the deal advantage is in their court. If they call you, the advantage is now in your court.

Drove it for the first time in two weeks. Been in quarantine after testing positive, today was the first day I could leave the house. So groceries and just a drive.

How did you people back up at night before LED's and back up cameras?

Yes sorry, I was multi tasking when replying and made it quick. The lip of the 18 wheel is about 21/64" further away than the 20. 1/2" difference in the widths, divided by 2, plus the 2mm (5/64") offset. But the tire is still 12.5" wide on both the 20 and 18, which negates the wheel width difference, so the edge of the tire (which is what I should have specified, sorry about that) is still only 5/64" further away. And the inconsistencies in tire manufacturing and the deflection of the tire can more than make up that difference. Basically what I'm getting at is there isn't so much of a difference, that I wouldn't not worry about if one or the other rubs, I'd assume if one does the other does.

28mm (20×9) vs. 26mm(18×8.5) Not really much of a difference, the 18's sit 5/64" further away from the UCA. So miniscule that the width of the tire will negate it.

I'm 6'4" and the seat in my 2018 Regular cab was moved forward about 3-4 notches, there was plenty of room in the cab. They have the same amount of room as a crew cab and double cab in the fronts. Unless you're driving it around like a 16 year with the seat laid back, but why would you drive a truck like that it's not a car.

Pretty soon the only 1/2 ton truck GM will build is a CCSB. Once they got rid of the RCSB, GM started limiting the Double cab options, no more LTZ, LT Trail Boss, AT4 or SLT in a double cab. Give it a few years and it'll be gone too.

This was a weekly event in the end. I owned this for 9 months, it spent 6 of those in and out of the shop for the same problem.

3" is fine for a 5.3. General rule of thumb is 1" for every 100hp. MVP is US company, that doesn't mean they don't outsource their pipes from China, either way who gives a ******. Just keep an eye on the pipes, 409 is a lower grade stainless, it will rust eventually.

I live in Ontarible, the heart of the rust belt, I consider no rust to mean no rust. It's very much possible in the rust belt to keep a vehicle from rusting, but it's not an effortless endeavor and not for the lazy.

Haven't heard that about ever generation of truck ever built...

That video is why I don't like Ziebart, it's a rubber based product. It has to be maintained, if not it will rot from underneath. Once I bought the 91, I cleaned a lot of it offhand the frame was good, but I resprayed with Krown. You should use an oil based product not a rubberized product.

The 91 was done with Ziebart, not my choice, but I wasn't the original owner. The benefit to Ziebart is (or use to be, not sure if it's still the same) if you have it done from when the vehicle is new and have it touched up by them every year, then they fix any rust that happens. They stood behind their product, again not the product I prefer and I'm not sure if the still offer that kind of warranty. On my new trucks I've used Krown. My ATV is done with Krown every year and it has no rust. I use my ATV to push snow all winter. My dad's 2004 2500HD was done with Krown every other year and it's in the same shape as my old 91. Except he's had to replace the brake lines, but 99-06 trucks are notorious for brake lines rotting.

All your post tells me is that with out a little preventative maintenance, a truck that could last a long time, only lasted 14-16 years. And thats not a good time frame in my mind, thats actually pretty bad. In 2015 I bought a 1991 C2500, that had been religiously undercoated since day one, off of the second owner (the first owners son). This was an Ontario truck and was daily driven year round. The frame was perfect and rust free, it had the original fuel and brake line, no rust on the body, even the bushings were original. That's 29 years with no sign of "I might get 2 more years out of it". Just because it's a snow belt truck doesn't mean it has to have a limited life span.

Take it to the dealer and talk to them. I had my 2012 Silverado frame wax re done under a TSB. Then I undercoated the truck, like I've done all of my trucks. Never had a problem afterwards. But you have to re-apply the undercoating every year.

There's a mod I haven't seen since the late 90's.

I don't think it's meant to be used when driving, but the truck does need to be running.

The largest underground salt mine is in Ontario, and Ontarible takes full advantage of this. They mix sand and salt in some places, but where I'm from the drainage systems can't take the sand so it's mostly salt or salt brine. I'm further south than 13 states and at least half of 3 others. It doesn't get as cold as you think.

Stripped the bike apart tonight, now I gotta decide what I want to do with it.