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Tracto-man

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About Tracto-man

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  1. Well on second realization the rotor tab got bent up, so I'm assuming the distributor has got just enough play that it got out of wack while at a low idle and hit one of the cap contactors. New rotor and it's running again, but looks like a new distributor is probably in order.
  2. My old red trucks been missing on hot start up after it's been running for say 30 miles, (stop and the ag store for a few mins and start it it up again) but on cold start always ran smooth and after driving for a minute from hot start always smoothed right out. Then tonight driving along, running great, stopped at the RR tracks, went to go and it fell on its face. Missing like crazy, backfiring when letting off the throttle, goes 55mph but not easily. Got it home, looked around for loose wires or anything somewhat obvious, wires are all still good, doesn't look like head gasket blew, no check engine light, but still always running like crap no matter what. So could a basic tune-up maybe possibly help with this? Motor has 322k so kinda wondering if something internal might have finally gone wrong, new plug wires fuel pump, plugs cap and rotor, etc 44k miles ago, then new plugs, cap and rotor, and temp sensor again about 16k miles ago. Kinda just wondering if it's worth $150ish on a tune-up again, or just call it quits and park it until I have a new motor ready to go in and the time to change it?
  3. Sounds extremely enticing, lol. Does anyone have build/date info for such a build?
  4. My trucks nearing 350k miles on a stock 5.7 motor, and it's starting to show. Little bit of oil usage, oil pressure usually around 17-20psi hot at 1600rpms, but mainly just noticing significant power loss within the last 45k miles or so, gets on the highway like a 2.0, lol. I know the truck probably isn't worth it to spend the time and money of a new motor, but it's worth it to me. So I'm wondering what the general consensus is on rebuilding the Motor that's in it, versus buying a crate motor, versus buying a lower mileage used 5.7. And wondering what anyone else who's done this ran into, probably would want new alt, starter, water pump, ps pump, etc etc? What did you run into that you wished you just replaced? I would like to do some simpleish power upgrades too, nothing crazy like a hot rod as it gets used everyday, but more power is always better. And then the other issue is that since it's a old truck, I'm not trying to cheap out but I'm not going to go blow 3k on a motor either. Along with the motor, maybe regearing diffs, and rebuilding the front end, I'd like to keep it around 3-4k total. I know it's not worth but the trucks lasted so long with minimal issues while I beat on it it's time to "make it nice again", lol. In the end it's not unlikely that it will be loosing the body lift and getting a 6-10in suspension lift and some nice new shoes
  5. So my 1998 Chevy k1500 5.7 vortex got new fuel pump, filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, at 288,000 miles. Ran great since then no issues whatsoever. It's now at 312k. Then recently once in a while I noticed instead of starting right up it would turn over for like 10-15 wives before starting and then fire right up and run fine. Leaving work Thursday of last week truck would not start. It would pop and sputter a bit but not run. The fuel pump wasn't running when I turned the key to run, but I can always here it when going back to the run position from the start position. Eventually started smelling very gassy. Took the air box off intake and held peddle down thinking it was flooded. Still sputtering, finally back fired and after the back fire started up as if nothing ever happened. Drove it with no problems again until this morning. Same thing again, just sputtering, pump running when key goes from start to run, started smelling gas again, didn't have the time to mess with it so took another vehicle. So kind of lost as to were to start, obviously going to check spark, and fuel pressure when I get a chance to, but does it sound like any thing obvious that I don't know about here? Thanks!
  6. Hey y'all, had my 1998 Chevy k1500 4x4 5.7 extended cab for a while now, the blower motors never worked right. Once in a great while it will kick on for a few seconds then back off for the next few days. Guy I got it from said it needs the whole Motor, but with it turning on for a bit every once in a while I'm wondering if there's a solinoid or something that's goes bad? I would really hate to spend $50+ on a blower motor only to find it was something else. Fuse is good. Never minded it in the winter but with summer just around the corner I need my A/C, lol. Thanks guys
  7. I'm wanting to put some bigger (taller) tires on my 1998 Chevy k1500 4x4 extended cab short bed with a 3 inch body lift. Currently running on bald 265/75r16's. I believe this is 31 1/2" diameter? I'd like to run 33"s or maybe even 35"s, what tire number/size would that be though? Something like 265/85r16? Also, anyone have a truck set up like this? How big a tire can you fit on it without running into problems? I'm hoping to just find cheaper used tires on Craigslist or something, can't really afford new ones.
  8. Replaced the fuel pump and it's running great. Guess my fuel pressure gauge was off, took it to a mechanic and his pressure tester showed the highest psi the fuel ever got to was 55
  9. Good evening gentlemen, I recently purchased a 1998 Chevy K1500 extended cab short bed 4x4 Silverado with 290,000 miles, (I know that's high, but the truck is almost rust free) Ran and drove fine, only issue I noticed is lower oil pressure, (45 cold, 20 hot) which I would expect from a high mileage car, if I have to put a crate motor in in a year or 2, that's okay. Anyway, it's started bogging at any hard acceleration, or consistently at 2500 rpms and up, will about die and starts backfiring if I don't let off the pedal. Checked fuel pressure, it tested good while running, and while the engine bogged fuel pressure didn't go down. scanned for any codes, seemed like clogged exhaust, cut the exhaust, no difference. (Cats have already been removed by some owner in the past) tested EGR valve, it tested good, cleaned throttle body, no difference. Went ahead and spent almost 200 on good cap, AC Delco plugs, wires, rotor, still no difference, bogs just the same. I've been looking all over the internet and seen this is a fairly common problem but haven't really found any answers. Where should I go from here? I'm not the kind of guy that just replaces things until it runs... I always work on my own stuff but this really has me stumped. Thanks in a advance for any help I can get!
  10. Hey guys, I've got a couple questions about my 1999 silverado 5.3 4x4 z71 LS truck. 1. Ever since I got it a month ago, the abs light has been on, and the brake light comes on once in a while. PO said he had brakes done recently. Any clues on this? Bleed them and see what happens? Did change both front wheels bearings with abs sensors. Do I need to reset the light? 2. My power steering pump is whining at me at cold start up for minute or two, or until it gets some higher rpms. Should I replace the pump or... 3. The truck has 256,000 miles and is due for an oil change. What oil would you use? I'm thinking synthetic Mobil 1 10w 30? Gonna do the filter too. 4. Have a new rear differential cover and gasket to replace the old one that's rusted out. Any tips, or just remove old one, put new one in and fill with 80-90 gear oil? Thanks!!!
  11. I'd be interested in how it turns out as well, mine is whining and I'd like to fix it in the near future...
  12. Awesome thanks for the info guys! I got the 2 wheel bearings in the mail, now just have to get a car off the lift and get this one up there.
  13. I wouldn't worry about it for the most part. If you can actually punch through it I would be a little more concerned, but it doesn't sound too bad from your discription. I know a guy with a old Chevy truck that he took off the road due to a hole rusted in the frame. He still beats that truck up on his farm and 4 years later its not broke yet.
  14. I was wondering about rock auto. I've used them before but just for cheap parts. Are these wheel bearings okay? http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1999,silverado+1500,5.3l+v8,1353686,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub+assembly,1636 I'm thinking the WJB WA515036HD {#515036HD} .hub and bearings with hardware unless anyone advises against it. Thanks for the quick reply!
  15. Hello guys! This is my first question here. First off, I'm a die hard Ram guy, (Hopefully I won't get canned for saying that?). So I know virtually nothing about this truck. Just got the truck. It came up on craigslist for $900. I got there within an hour of his posting it and got the title. It has 256,000 miles but runs awesome, and the 4x4 works great. It's LT, leather, 3 door extended cab, 5.3 engine. I thought I didn't like Chevy's before, but just from driving this thing home, I'd have to say my rams are no better! I think this truck just won me over! Anyway, drove her home and threw it up on my buddy's lift. Except for a lot of rust, the truck is in great mechanical condition. The only things it needs are a rear differential cover, and both front wheel bearings are REALLY bad. Can't believe I drove it home, Lol. So, I'm still trying to decide if I'm going to sell this truck as planned, or keep it because I like it so much. Whatever the case, I'd REALLY rather NOT spend a lot on the wheel bearings. I can get a pair with a 1 year limited warranty from ebay for $80. $80 for a pair seems like they'd have to be junk, but i sure like that price. I'd rather not spend $100 a piece on bearings. Where would you guys recommend getting parts? Any other advice on this truck would be greatly appreciated as well! Thanks in advance!
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