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AJMBLAZER

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Everything posted by AJMBLAZER

  1. Well, your best bet would be to replace the rear blocks then. Did you ask Readylift if using only their front lift would void the warranty on it? Just tell them you're using a different rear setup.
  2. I'd bet cutting them off would also mess with the warranty. Considered something like Timbrens? They might work with the lift blocks' bump stop things you have now.
  3. In theory your suggestion could work. That said I'd rather just buy new blocks of the appropriate height that didn't have the bump stop thingies on them.
  4. Good tires make a big difference. The stockers are pretty lame.
  5. Hmmmm. Interesting. I’ve never set up a profile on mine.
  6. No I never did. However I swear it’s better now. Kinda wondering If one of the software fixes worked on it. Still annoying when it does happen.
  7. I lift each side from under the rear of the front doors. Jack stand goes up toward the front of the same doors where the frame is beefed up before it narrows inward. Watch out if your frame has the anti-rust waxy coating. Can be a bit slick.
  8. If you’re running the stock size tires I wouldn’t level it at all. Run some Bilstein 4600’s and call it good.
  9. Only way to know if a 35 will fit under the bed is two take a tape measure down there and check. On my last very tall truck I made a set of platforms out of a whole bunch of 2 x 4 pieces that raised the jack and stands up enough. Heavy as hell but strong and worked.
  10. The frame is the rigid backbone of your truck. Literally everything on the truck is located off it. That’s why most makers don’t replace sections of it. Any good shop should be able to do this. I delivered replacement GM frames to body shops 20 years ago.
  11. Check if your front struts are tight on top. Reminds me of when the top bolt isn’t tight to the mount and it makes a noise like that when it hits bumps.
  12. Yes. Also ended up redoing the shaft seals because they wiped them out on the first try. No more chirp.
  13. Several of us have apparently received successful fixes. Mine was done last November and 6,000 or so miles later no chirping. I drive 40 minutes at freeway speeds each way and used to hear it every time I got off the interstate. Nothing now.
  14. They should be a stand alone swap. There's no difference in the other parts that GM offers. That line may be due to the difficulty of it. Leaf spring swaps aren't hard but the parts are heavy, long, and often the bolts aren't able to come out with the fuel tank in place on some vehicles.
  15. I believe on mine they replaced the stub shaft originally. My noise is gone.
  16. You have to get the full RPO code list from GM customer service. It will be listed there.
  17. Eh, 5100's are great for most offroading that people do. However, if you plan on going fast over rough terrain it's time to start spending money on better shocks and struts.
  18. 5100 is an improved monotube shock. 5160 is basically the same shock but with a reservoir for more endurance when cycling the suspension rapidly. 6112 is a bigger body monotube for those that use their stuff hard but don’t want to go full custom suspension.
  19. Bigger brakes = different wheel shapes. There have been a few reports of certain wheels from the last generation fitting but you would have to figure out which.
  20. I’d bet you could swap axles with a 3.42 geared truck to get a bit lower. Ditto on the new transmissions. Ever since the 6 speed they’re super low geared and pull hard, even with higher axle ratios than traditionally. At any rate the front diff can for sure be taken apart and serviced. So at the very least right now there will be GM axle sets available. 3.23, 3.42, and…3.73? What’s the gear ratio on the 3.0L with the towing package?
  21. The front end probably doesn't have a locker available for it. Wouldn't be very street friendly either. The 9.5" 12 bolt rear is a variant of the old GM 9.5" 14 bolt Semi Floater so it can be regeared with earlier generation parts and use their lockers. This has been done before.
  22. Depends on what you want to do. Some black spray paint or do it yourself bedliner? $20 and your time. A good shop that was flexible about their applications could probably fit it in while they were spraying a pickup bed for not much. I've seen $50-100 for little jobs like that. Also seen crazy estimates from places that don't like to do the little, "non-pickup bed" jobs.
  23. Mine came with them. Not a fan. Now I have to figure out how to wash behind them to get the grit and little bit of salt we get out from behind them and off the sheet metal. If I still lived up north I'd probably have taken them off. Never bothered on my last truck that didn't have them but the plan was either paint the wheel well all black with some heavy spray paint or even get it bed linered. Might still do it with this truck.
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