AJMBLAZER

Mine was like that. One member on here had enough of a gap that he used some weather seal from Lowes. Mine was so tight it wouldn’t even get close to fitting. I ended up going function over form and slathered some clear heavy duty sealant I had on that gap. You couldn’t see it unless you were standing in the bed anyway. That and the windshield sealant around the window and my leaks were gone for the last several years I owned mine.

Funny thing is I recently bought a 2024 RAV4. There’s an eerily similar debate over on a forum I found about not running the recommended 0w16 Toyota recommends. Guys saying it will kill the engine, “just run what Toyota says”, they say to run 5w30 in Europe, oil packages and XYZ test and ABC endorsement and blah blah blah. I’m switching it to 0w20 to use up the stuff we have on hand and the wife’s Yukon is going 5w30. Eventually they’ll both go 5w30.

It's at a shop for that. I eliminated all the ignition related stuff. Waiting to hear how painful it is.

This morning while heading to work I was accelerating onto the highway and at about 50mph I feel/hear a POP in front of me and several lights come on. Engine is misfiring and running rough. SES light, service parking brake light, traction control off light turn on and the transmission is shifting hard. I coast off the on ramp, turn it off, and look it over. No rod sticking through the block or pan. No sign of a head gasket. Seems to be correct oil pressure when running. F&$@%##}#%}} I just paid it off. 117,****** miles. Oil changed every 5,000 with synthetic and mostly highway miles. Call out of work and limp it home. I have an ancient scan tool and it shows P0303 cylinder 3 misfire. Reset the codes. Swap the coil to cylinder 1 and put a new ACDelco plug and wire on cylinder 3. Was planning on doing plugs and wires this coming weekend ironically. Runs better but not right. Lights come back on. Now the scan tool shows P0303 and P0500 which is the vehicle speed sensor. WTH? It wasn’t moving this time. Where’d the P0500 code come from? Going to try putting a new coil on 3 and putting the cylinder 1 pack back on 1. Would love some thoughts and hell, prayers.

Will fit fine unless you go with some goofy wide aftermarket rims with weird backspacing.

Was wondering how far off the speedo is? I've got 33-34" tires on in place of the 31.something tires it came with and I'm only 2 mph slow at 60 and 3 at 75. Trans shifts fine.

You know this thread has been dead for nearly 5 years right?

I’ll be short on acronyms and testing data but I put 5w30 synthetic in my 5.3L yesterday and it seems quieter and smoother so far. No warning lights or new issues. The starts after auto-stop are much smoother and quieter. @Gangly

Alignment is out. Get it realigned.

Yep. Even a truck like mine without MaxTow would be a big difference. More power, more gears, deeper axle gears.

I want to rebuild the valve body in my 8 speed but I have to do a TCM rebuild after. Threw a wrench in my plans that I am going to have to pay for.

Dumb question - can any of these scan tools allow you access to the TCM to do the transmission relearn?

“But I’m not at 0% yet!”

Your alignment can be out but you still track straight. Have your alignment checked.

Known noisy tires with high miles as well as how’s your alignment?

I'd check your wiring. Somewhere you're energizing the taillight with that switch

Where'd you get power from? Something's clearly sending power to the tail light when you do that.

I've got one of the Superior bypass valves on the list of upgrades. Hearing not to bother with a deeper pan. I might just add a drain plug to the factory pan and call it good. I guess shift kits were the wrong word. Looking at the Sonnax upgrades to make things work a bit better/more original.

113,****** miles on my truck. Transmission shifts okay. Had the GM service update done with Mobil fluid at about 30,000 miles. Looking to do a pan and filter fluid change this fall and considering some upgrades. Has anyone else done things such as a shift kit, deeper pan, or the transmission cooler bypass valve? What did you do? Which brands did you use?

My wife had a 2009 Honda Accord when we met. Only ever serviced at the Honda dealership she bought it from. At around 30,000 miles it started using oil and had to be put in a oil use test program through the dealership to figure out what was wrong. They never really fessed up to anything so we sold it in 2013.

That’s BS. My truck is 5 years old with 113,000 miles on it. Original battery. In February it sat for over two weeks and started just fine. A newish, correctly functioning, factory original truck shouldn’t have any draws that would make a battery go dead in 2 weeks.

With all you oil nerds yammering on I have to say I’ve been reading bottles a little closer. Surprised how many big name oils have variations out there that aren’t dexos certified. Probably going to follow Gangly’s lead and switch to 5w30 next change and the amount of big name oils that don’t have the features you guys have mentioned is a bit eye opening.

Good cleaning product and one of those detailer's scrubby balls will take care of it.

Let us know how it goes.