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AJMBLAZER

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Everything posted by AJMBLAZER

  1. Same as others said. We ordered my wife's '22 Yukon SLT from them last fall and picked it up the first week of January. We were probably a bit of a PITA because my wife's super Type 1 and they actually honored my family GM employee discount but they were patient and great to deal with. Price was what they said, no negotiation except on the trade which worked out in our favor. They handled everything and sent the paperwork off to Kentucky as they were supposed to. Aside from their low prices due to volume they also deal with out of state people all the time so they're very familiar with helping people who don't live in Illinois (thankfully). My FIL bought a Ram from their Dodge dealership in Missouri with the same results. We highly recommend them.
  2. I've got a 3" 26" long Jones Muffler *coughnotaMagnaflowbecauseitisn'tstampedMagnaflowcough* on my Silverado 5.3L 8 speed. Eliminated the flapper too. There is a tiny bit of drone at certain throttle conditions around 40mph when it seems like the truck is sitting between gears. It's not terrible and it's a speed I rarely seem to maintain on surface roads. 98% of the time I have no issues and at highway speeds it isn't even noticeable. I drive 45 minutes on the highway each way 3-4 days a week.
  3. Will be some suspension dropping and diff work but nothing terrible.
  4. Standard metal strap style wrench I've had for a decade or two. Make sure it tightens before you try to pull to loosen the filter.
  5. I’m considering this: https://www.ajtdesign-llc.com/online-store/2019-c129339264
  6. Eh, it sorta is but isn't. Several people on here have put blocks under the factory composite leafs. So far no issues. I did it last spring and so far so good.
  7. It’s a longevity issue. Especially for a vehicle lifted from the factory with a warranty they have to honor. Over time and miles, yes, it’s not a bad thing to have. When I put my TB spec Bilsteins on I kept the original CV’s. They’re fine. When they need replacement I’m going with TB spec axles.
  8. I mean...could always throw a block under the monoleaf. Get longer U bolts and run with it. Not sure what the difference would be between the block and the spring perch anyway. Haven't seen a monoleaf like that in a long time. Ford used to run them under low options, low weight rating 4 cyl, regular cab 2wd Rangers back in the 90's.
  9. That’s the bracket on mine. No need for a rounded U bolt here. (Yes, the block’s apparently shifted some. It’s still tight though.)
  10. I bought these: https://store.uboltsdirect.com/1/2-u-bolts/square/12-x-2-12-inside-width 10.5” long legs. Fit great and lots beefier than the parts store crap I tried to use. Stripped out while tightening.
  11. This may be true if you have a good NAPA. The NAPA where I live was unable to locate a U bolt of the correct length, diameter, and spacing. However I got the feeling after wasting a half an hour on the phone with them that they weren't really able to accurately use their system. I think the person was just clicking on U bolts and looking at the description. The prices they kept quoting me weren't that great either.
  12. I'll look later when I get home. The problem I ran into was the TB/AT4 U-bolts were made to work with the TB/AT4 rear springs which are thinner than the leaf spring packs that have the composite spring in them. So when I put the 2" block under the composite spring pack the TB U-bolts were JUST too small. Another 1/4" to 1/2" and I could have safely threaded them on. I bought some springs online from a place that made them to order and they worked great. They are square U bolts. The bolts go over the top of the leaf springs, down each side of the pack, and mount to the U bolt plate below the axle so they have to be square.
  13. Several people have done it on here. Myself included. I put a set of GM 2” lift blocks on and then got some U bolts made because the TB U bolts weren’t long enough. So far no issues.
  14. That goes between the spoiler and the body.
  15. I dunno. I always use the LT rated tires under my trucks. I like the firmer on road ride and increased durability. Currently running Load Range E Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT’s at 35psi. Ride great. Wearing fine.
  16. Uhmmm…behind the bumper between it and the frame…? They’re what mount the bumper to the frame.
  17. Probably just moved the brackets. You can probably loosen them, pull it back into place, and retighten.
  18. For $80 + tax I’d go with the LT rated tires. Tougher, deeper tread, and will stand up to that offroading you mentioned.
  19. Lots of claims there super. So how would you do it? Personally I’ve had them on a variety of trucks with different suspensions since the 90’s and have always loved them.
  20. The float goes bye bye. it’s a truck so it doesn’t handle like an Italian super car but it does handke pretty well.
  21. Bilsteins are great. They increase your suspension's dampening so you will feel more of the road. However you'll have less roll and wobble than you have with the crappy factory shocks and struts. It's like the difference between a well set up sports car's firm but controlled ride and a plush but wallowy sedan's ride.
  22. On the AAMCO built rear axles: From information I've gleaned on the interwebs the 9.5" 12 bolt we have is the grandson of the classic 9.5" 14 bolt semi floater from the 80's to the 00's. I've heard accounts of 9.5" 14SF lockers and limited slips fitting inside the 9.5" 12SF housings with a bit of mixing and matching of carriers and bearings. I know when I was looking at them a few years ago the axle shafts were showing from AAMCo as the same as the earlier 00's 14SF's. The new GM axles...I dunno?
  23. Gears are the only way to return mechanical advantage. Increased power is a bandaid for the lost leverage due to the bigger tires.
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