PhilB

If you look closely at the black trim piece under the bumper, you will see what looks like caps/plugs on the front side of the trim. Hard to really see in the picture that is posted currently. There was another picture that had a close up of the bumper and trim where the OP circled the holes.

84428905 fits 2019 Silverados. Definitely the wrong one was sold to you. Even the packaging says Chevrolet.

This is the diagram for the lower front bumper for the Denali and AT4

As a former Quadrasteer owner, I did some searching. From what I have found, the OEM bellows part is 88963416. I checked a lot of the GM parts web sites and they all say the part is discontinued. I did find this rear steering kit on ebay when searching for quadrasteer - https://www.ebay.com/itm/273792264979?epid=9031307724&hash=item3fbf4a6b13:g:ZnoAAOSwzlRcpS9S Maybe you could contact the seller and see if they could sell you just the bellows. Good Luck.

TRKLGND - message sent. Interested in the light bar.

Could be your battery is on it's way out. That would be the first thing I would check. Everything on these trucks depend on the voltages being correct. Fluctuations in voltages can cause certain things to malfunction and/or codes to appear.

When you start getting multiple errors like this, the first thing I say is to check your battery. When the battery starts going bad, the voltage fluctuates and that can cause the computer to go wonky. If you are still on the OEM battery, it is approximately 3 years old and probably going bad. Get that checked first and maybe save yourself some money by not having to buy unnecessary parts.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I should have stated that my grocery trips usually consist of a 40+ mile round trip as I live in a rural area and the wife likes to shop at a particular store. I drove yesterday and the truck has been sitting for over 24 hours in the garage. I just checked the battery voltage and it read 12.6V. I do not have anything extra plugged in. I have noticed that when I first start the truck, the needle will be below 14 on the gauge. Then within a mile of driving, it will slowly crawl up to the the high range. After a restart from the auto-stop, the needle will go right back to where it was before the auto-stop.

I am looking for some expert opinions from some of the techs on here or others that may know what is causing my problem. I am very familiar with how the GM charging system works and the voltage gauge will fluctuate. Back story: My voltage gauge has been reading above 14 volts since I noticed it last Oct but could have started sooner. My truck has turned into a weekend grocery getter since Covid shut down everything and I work from home full time. I have put only 4k miles on my truck in the last 12 months so since I am not driving it as much, I may not have noticed it. In Oct when I noticed this I thought that maybe I wasn't driving it enough and the battery was getting low. In Nov I noticed that my autostop wasn't working either. I eventually took the truck in to the dealer in Dec to have both issues checked out. They said that the battery had a bad cell which was causing the autostop to not function, and that may be why the volt meter was always above 14. So a new battery was installed and that fixed the autostop issue, but the volt meter still reads above 14, like close to the next mark to the right. I took it back again in Dec and they said that it was all within specs and gave me a copy of the GM Charging System Description and Operation. In Feb this year, during the Polar Vortex, the volt meter crept to the other side of that right tick mark. I estimate that it was over 15V. Now that Spring is almost here, the volt meter needle is between 14 and the next tick mark. I put my ODBii reader on it the other day when the ambient temps were in the 50s and the voltage was 14.6 consistently. Redwngr posted on another topic the following which reads exactly like my GM handout the dealer gave me. This is part of it: Charging System Operation The purpose of the charging system is to maintain the battery charge and vehicle loads. There are 6 modes of operation and they include: • Battery Sulfation Mode • Charge Mode • Fuel Economy Mode • Headlamp Mode • Start Up Mode • Voltage Reduction Mode The engine control module (ECM) controls the generator through the generator turn ON signal circuit. The ECM monitors the generator performance though the generator field duty cycle signal circuit. The signal is a pulse width modulation (PWM) signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0–100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5–95 percent. Between 0–5 percent and 95–100 percent are for diagnostic purposes. The following table shows the commanded duty cycle and output voltage of the generator: Commanded Duty Cycle Generator Output Voltage 10% 11 V 20% 11.56 V 30% 12.12 V 40% 12.68 V 50% 13.25 V 60% 13.81 V 70% 14.37 V 80% 14.94 V 90% 15.5 V The generator provides a feedback signal of the generator voltage output through the generator field duty cycle signal circuit to the ECM. This information is sent to the body control module (BCM). The signal is PWM signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0– 100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5–99 percent. Between 0–5 percent and 100 percent are for diagnostic purposes. Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements. Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met. • The wipers are ON for more than 3 seconds. • GMLAN (Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request) is true, as sensed by the HVAC control head. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. • The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). • Battery State of Charge is less than 80 percent. • Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) • Current sensor fault exists. • System voltage was determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature. Based on the Commanded Duty Cycle, I am running in the 70%-80% range. For the bulleted items above, I can eliminate wipers (not raining), HVAC is off, not driving over 90mph. If I am driving 30 - 40 minutes, I would expect the Battery State of Charge to be at 100%. The system voltage should be above 12.56v. Battery temp should be above 32 since the ambient temps are in the 50's. I have kind of narrowed it down to the battery current sensor through the process of elimination. How can I test to see if the battery current sensor is bad? Or could it be that the ECM is stuck and needs to be rebooted or reprogrammed? (FWIW, I had recall N192210560 Engine Recalibration Torque done on 8/30/20 so the ECM was reprogrammed then). I am thinking of dropping the truck off at the dealer and let them keep it until it is fixed. This is not normal. Sorry for the long post.

In theory, your vehicle should get better reception than your cell phone would.

The battery in the meter is for measuring resistance when in the ohms function or test continuity. You should not need a battery to test the truck's battery. You could have faulty testing leads or a bad meter. To test your leads put the dial in the continuity check mode (just to the right of the 6 o'clock position). Your test leads should be in the same position on the meter as when testing the voltage. Now touch the test leads together. You should get a tone, and the meter should read '1'. If that happens, then your test leads are functional. To test the DC voltage function, put the dial back on the 20. Get a good battery (AA, AAA, 9V) and touch the leads to it (red/positive, black/negative). You should read 1.5v or 9v, depending on the battery.

On the Chevy Accessories site, there are three different performance exhaust upgrade systems. There is the one that is the GM Performance exhaust, pn-84527234. The other two are identical to each other except they come with Borla tips pn-19419433 and 19419437. I noticed that the GM Performance one is a single in/single out muffler, and the other two are single in/dual out mufflers. Is one system better than the other? Is anyone familiar with this Borla system from GM?

On the screen where you confirm your info and place your order, there is a spot on the lower left for manufacturer's coupons. Click that and it will bring up the discounts that are running right now. I just ordered the 6.2l performance exhaust with the borla tips. It was only $50 more than the exhaust w/o the tips, $40 after the discount.

I had my wifi through att for a while. My checked my speeds when I was in a good cell signal range. My speeds over wifi were similar to what was posted by the OP. My speeds on my cell without the wifi were around 112mbs down and around 10mbs up. I contacted Onstar about rebooting my wifi. They sent some signal to my vehicle that "supposedly" rebooted the wifi router. No real improvement. I cancelled my att service for the truck. I did get the free Onstar data plan they were just offering. Checked my speeds again and still the same slow throughput. Does anyone know which fuse the router is on? I think a full reboot of the system may help.

I don't know if it will work. For my dash cam rear camera, I ran the power wire from the dash cam on the left side of the mirror, under the headliner all the way to the rear window where the camera is mounted. I have not had any issues.

I have the FAC on my '19. Yes it sits higher due to the rails for the cover sitting on the bed rails, not on the inside of the bed. I haul loads of hay and other stuff so I don't want the rails for the cover to be damaged by whatever I'm hauling. The lock mechanism is covered up underneath to prevent the use of devices to pop the latches open. I got this cover because I liked the feature of being able to open the front panel without having to open the entire cover.

I think you have to use the module to deactivate the tow package. You would still plug it in to the CURT adapter. Using the CURT adapter is the way to go to avoid hard-wiring the LED strip. On my '14 I did what Ravenkeeper did and went with the 7-pin to 5-pin connector.

OPT7 has a tow package module to deactivate the tow package when not towing. http://www.opt-7.com/tow-package-module-for-redline-led-tailgate-bars/

Since my truck started doing this, it has been sometimes working, sometimes not. I started noticing that when I leave for work in the morning it doesn't work, but when I leave work the app is working. The only difference is that I lock the truck at work and not at home in my garage. Yesterday, I locked my truck while it was in the garage. When I left for work, I unlocked the truck and the climate app was working. I need to experiment with this some more. I'm going to try some combinations of leaving the truck unlocked, starting it, if the climate app is not working, stopping the truck, locking it, unlocking it, start the truck and see if the app is working. Just to note I do have the passive locking feature turned off.

Didn't drive the truck on Sat. Got in this morning and it was working. We'll see how long it will last....

I just noticed this issue a couple of days ago. The first few times I thought it was telling me that the climate system was off because I turned it off. But now it appears every time I do anything with the system. I opened the Climate app and it just says Climate Off. It has the ON/OFF button displayed. When I tap it, I can hear the fan turn on or off so I know it kind of works. But it does not work at all to make any other changes to the system. I tried this on my profile and the Guest profile - no luck.

I have been contemplating the GM cat back and installing it myself. When you removed the OEM exhaust, did you have to cut it to get it out?

OP, I was thinking along the lines of having your system installed on the Silverado, but powering the camera through a different source. There are a lot of variables involved with your issue. When you move your system to another vehicle you eliminated those variables. The variables seem to be: a) power to the camera via the trailer wiring and silverado b) monitor reception while in the silverado c) monitor reception when outside the silverado d) power to the camera via an independent power source You know that your system doesn't work with a) and b). You know it works with c) and d). Have you tried a) and c), or b) and d)? I wonder if the Silverado's bluetooth is overpowering the monitor's bluetooth? Keep us posted with what you find out.

You tried powering the monitor with a separate power source and it didn't work. Have you tried powering the camera with a separate power source other than the trailer wiring? Could be that the Silverado is sending some type of interference on the trailer wiring. There is something different with the trailer wiring that lets the truck know when you plug a trailer in. Do you have the keyless entry system? Maybe the geofencing for the keyless entry system is blocking the signal? Just some thoughts...

Have you tried doing the learn process by pressing the button on the back of the garage door opener first, then pressing a homelink button within 30 seconds? I had to do that for my 3rd car garage door to get it programmed. That opener is 15+ years old. This process worked for both my '19 Silverado and '19 Traverse.