PhilB

I had a Silverado that didn't have a sunroof, so I had a reputable aftermarket business install one. It had some nice features that the OEM sunroof didn't have e.g. when you lock the truck, the sunroof would close automatically. What I was not impressed by was the headliner that they installed. They couldn't use the OEM so they put some cloth material in. It sagged somewhat and would billow around when the windows were open while driving. My advice would be for you to see some actual vehicles where your company installed a sunroof. Check the quality of the installation and ask the owners if there have been any leaks. And check the headliner to see if they reused the OEM or put in something else. Just my thoughts.

I have these in my truck - https://www.weathertech.com/door-protector/ They have tabs that slide in between the window and the door. The only issue I have had is after rolling the window down for the dog, rolling it back up sometimes pulls one or two of the tabs up with it. If I don't roll the window all the way down, they will stay in place when rolling them back up.

Have you tried driving around with the cover open or removed to see if that is truly what is causing your mpg loss? 4-5 mpg is a lot IMO. You will need to try a process of elimination to find the root cause. It could be the cover or it could be something else that just happened to appear at the same time.

I had the issue with the auto stop/start not working about 1 1/2 years ago. I took it to the dealer. They found that the battery had a bad cell. They replaced the battery under warranty and it has been functional ever since.

My Putco Blade light bar works as intended. I have not looked to see if the tailgate gap cover has scratched my paint. I have not had any issues with the bushings.

I have the tailgate gap cover and Putco light bar. The tailgate gap cover does not interfere with the light bar.

The Onstar wifi in your truck uses a cellular modem to connect to a ATT LTE. Your truck also has a router to send the internet signal over wifi to whatever you connect to it. After the 3 months trial, your ATT data plan was discontinued. If you connect your laptop to your truck wifi now, you will get nothing. In THEORY, your truck will get a better cellular signal than your phone will. If you get a data plan with ATT, then you MAY have a signal in the truck when your phone has a weak signal. There are different data plans, I think, so you could use up all of your data plan using Waze. Waze is data intensive because it is sending your location to the cloud in real time. Do you need to use Waze? Are you using it for navigation, or are you always letting others know where you are when you are driving?

Another interesting article - this one on CNN - with some facts about the record high gas prices. https://www.cnn.com/2022/03/10/politics/record-gas-prices-wont-be-solved-by-drilling-more-oil-climate/index.html Here is a snippet for why the US imports crude oil: There's also the fact that the US consumes a different kind of oil than it produces. McNally likened the kind of light crude the US produces to champagne, and the heavy crude it imports to coffee. Importantly, US oil refineries are built to refine this "heavy and gunky" imported crude -- akin to separating out coffee grounds, McNally said.

Interesting article on msnbc.com about record high gas prices. Take from it what you want... https://www.msnbc.com/opinion/msnbc-opinion/record-high-gas-prices-are-not-joe-biden-s-fault-n1291238

Check this youtube video. This is for the Chevy performance exhaust on a 2019 Silverado. The part number is 84173601, which was replaced by 84964738. This kit has the Chevy logo on the exhaust kit. The GMC version of the same kit is 84173608 which was replaced by 84964742. Same exhaust, just different exhaust tips.

You can go to youtube and search for GM Performance Exhaust. There are plenty of videos out there.

GM, like Apple, has their software as a closed system, meaning that it can't/shouldn't be altered by unauthorized parties. Apple iOS used to be hacked, called "jail breaking", by hackers to turn on functionality that was in the operating system but not turned on by Apple. When Apple sends out a new update for iOS, it wipes out the jail break. In a similar sense, GM does not know that additional functionality has been added to your truck. They only know what they know by what is assigned to your VIN. So when they reflashed your module, it was what they have marked down to your VIN. When someone gets official GM accessories added by the dealer, and it involves flashing some software, I think it gets added to your VIN so that in the future, any reflashes should have that change included. IMO - when MVI updates the module for NAV, they should either "lock" the change, or let GM know that the change occurred so that it can be added to your VIN. This would avoid future issues with software updates or reflashes.

If you look closely at the black trim piece under the bumper, you will see what looks like caps/plugs on the front side of the trim. Hard to really see in the picture that is posted currently. There was another picture that had a close up of the bumper and trim where the OP circled the holes.

84428905 fits 2019 Silverados. Definitely the wrong one was sold to you. Even the packaging says Chevrolet.

This is the diagram for the lower front bumper for the Denali and AT4

As a former Quadrasteer owner, I did some searching. From what I have found, the OEM bellows part is 88963416. I checked a lot of the GM parts web sites and they all say the part is discontinued. I did find this rear steering kit on ebay when searching for quadrasteer - https://www.ebay.com/itm/273792264979?epid=9031307724&hash=item3fbf4a6b13:g:ZnoAAOSwzlRcpS9S Maybe you could contact the seller and see if they could sell you just the bellows. Good Luck.

TRKLGND - message sent. Interested in the light bar.

Could be your battery is on it's way out. That would be the first thing I would check. Everything on these trucks depend on the voltages being correct. Fluctuations in voltages can cause certain things to malfunction and/or codes to appear.

When you start getting multiple errors like this, the first thing I say is to check your battery. When the battery starts going bad, the voltage fluctuates and that can cause the computer to go wonky. If you are still on the OEM battery, it is approximately 3 years old and probably going bad. Get that checked first and maybe save yourself some money by not having to buy unnecessary parts.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I should have stated that my grocery trips usually consist of a 40+ mile round trip as I live in a rural area and the wife likes to shop at a particular store. I drove yesterday and the truck has been sitting for over 24 hours in the garage. I just checked the battery voltage and it read 12.6V. I do not have anything extra plugged in. I have noticed that when I first start the truck, the needle will be below 14 on the gauge. Then within a mile of driving, it will slowly crawl up to the the high range. After a restart from the auto-stop, the needle will go right back to where it was before the auto-stop.

I am looking for some expert opinions from some of the techs on here or others that may know what is causing my problem. I am very familiar with how the GM charging system works and the voltage gauge will fluctuate. Back story: My voltage gauge has been reading above 14 volts since I noticed it last Oct but could have started sooner. My truck has turned into a weekend grocery getter since Covid shut down everything and I work from home full time. I have put only 4k miles on my truck in the last 12 months so since I am not driving it as much, I may not have noticed it. In Oct when I noticed this I thought that maybe I wasn't driving it enough and the battery was getting low. In Nov I noticed that my autostop wasn't working either. I eventually took the truck in to the dealer in Dec to have both issues checked out. They said that the battery had a bad cell which was causing the autostop to not function, and that may be why the volt meter was always above 14. So a new battery was installed and that fixed the autostop issue, but the volt meter still reads above 14, like close to the next mark to the right. I took it back again in Dec and they said that it was all within specs and gave me a copy of the GM Charging System Description and Operation. In Feb this year, during the Polar Vortex, the volt meter crept to the other side of that right tick mark. I estimate that it was over 15V. Now that Spring is almost here, the volt meter needle is between 14 and the next tick mark. I put my ODBii reader on it the other day when the ambient temps were in the 50s and the voltage was 14.6 consistently. Redwngr posted on another topic the following which reads exactly like my GM handout the dealer gave me. This is part of it: Charging System Operation The purpose of the charging system is to maintain the battery charge and vehicle loads. There are 6 modes of operation and they include: • Battery Sulfation Mode • Charge Mode • Fuel Economy Mode • Headlamp Mode • Start Up Mode • Voltage Reduction Mode The engine control module (ECM) controls the generator through the generator turn ON signal circuit. The ECM monitors the generator performance though the generator field duty cycle signal circuit. The signal is a pulse width modulation (PWM) signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0–100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5–95 percent. Between 0–5 percent and 95–100 percent are for diagnostic purposes. The following table shows the commanded duty cycle and output voltage of the generator: Commanded Duty Cycle Generator Output Voltage 10% 11 V 20% 11.56 V 30% 12.12 V 40% 12.68 V 50% 13.25 V 60% 13.81 V 70% 14.37 V 80% 14.94 V 90% 15.5 V The generator provides a feedback signal of the generator voltage output through the generator field duty cycle signal circuit to the ECM. This information is sent to the body control module (BCM). The signal is PWM signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0– 100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5–99 percent. Between 0–5 percent and 100 percent are for diagnostic purposes. Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements. Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met. • The wipers are ON for more than 3 seconds. • GMLAN (Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request) is true, as sensed by the HVAC control head. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. • The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). • Battery State of Charge is less than 80 percent. • Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) • Current sensor fault exists. • System voltage was determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature. Based on the Commanded Duty Cycle, I am running in the 70%-80% range. For the bulleted items above, I can eliminate wipers (not raining), HVAC is off, not driving over 90mph. If I am driving 30 - 40 minutes, I would expect the Battery State of Charge to be at 100%. The system voltage should be above 12.56v. Battery temp should be above 32 since the ambient temps are in the 50's. I have kind of narrowed it down to the battery current sensor through the process of elimination. How can I test to see if the battery current sensor is bad? Or could it be that the ECM is stuck and needs to be rebooted or reprogrammed? (FWIW, I had recall N192210560 Engine Recalibration Torque done on 8/30/20 so the ECM was reprogrammed then). I am thinking of dropping the truck off at the dealer and let them keep it until it is fixed. This is not normal. Sorry for the long post.

In theory, your vehicle should get better reception than your cell phone would.

The battery in the meter is for measuring resistance when in the ohms function or test continuity. You should not need a battery to test the truck's battery. You could have faulty testing leads or a bad meter. To test your leads put the dial in the continuity check mode (just to the right of the 6 o'clock position). Your test leads should be in the same position on the meter as when testing the voltage. Now touch the test leads together. You should get a tone, and the meter should read '1'. If that happens, then your test leads are functional. To test the DC voltage function, put the dial back on the 20. Get a good battery (AA, AAA, 9V) and touch the leads to it (red/positive, black/negative). You should read 1.5v or 9v, depending on the battery.

On the Chevy Accessories site, there are three different performance exhaust upgrade systems. There is the one that is the GM Performance exhaust, pn-84527234. The other two are identical to each other except they come with Borla tips pn-19419433 and 19419437. I noticed that the GM Performance one is a single in/single out muffler, and the other two are single in/dual out mufflers. Is one system better than the other? Is anyone familiar with this Borla system from GM?

On the screen where you confirm your info and place your order, there is a spot on the lower left for manufacturer's coupons. Click that and it will bring up the discounts that are running right now. I just ordered the 6.2l performance exhaust with the borla tips. It was only $50 more than the exhaust w/o the tips, $40 after the discount.