Jack D

It sounds like your truck will do the job based on the weights you are displaying, but never rely on the travel trailer's manufacturer's posted specs, since they can often be misleading. The best/safest thing to do is take your rig to CAT (truck) scales while fully loaded for camping and follow the instructions for weighing a travel trailer. Instructions can be found on the CAT website. Get yourself a good weight distributing hitch with sway control. GOOD LUCK & HAPPY CAMPING!

Thanks for jumping in there for me J-Stroke!

I was also offered the prototype, but haven't received anything to date. We're not towing again for several more weeks, but it would be nice to have the fix before we go, so we can test it prior to the end of the camping season. The good thing is that the factory mirrors on the 2019's are very good for towing.

I am not having a lighting issue, but my trailer test tells me that the electric brakes are not connected. About 30 seconds later, I get the message that my saved brake settings are enabled. My trailer brakes work just fine, and the gain settings adjust the brakes normally, so no problems with trailer brake operation. Don't know why the test says that the brakes are not connected???

I have the same cover, but my bed stays mostly dry, even in hard rains. Only minimal leakage near the tailgate. Nothing inside the bed has gotten wet, yet. Weatherstripping can be purchased many places, and in many different configurations. It may be that the weatherstripping on yours was crushed by overtightening during the install by the dealership. The install instructions mention only tightening the nuts by two turns, or damage may occur. As mentioned above, climb inside the bed and have someone close it up while you look for sun/light entering.

I'll have to see if Jensen can come up with a similar fix.

I think that the subcontractors that make the parts for the manufacturers sometimes cut corners, or let substandard pieces get by while they are having manufacturing issues, as in the above case. The second part of the equation is the fact that treatments applied to the roads during winter are all oxidizers that will eat into the metal. Salt, calcium chloride and magnesium chloride are all used on roads, and they only need moisture and air to activate them, and they'll eat into any metal, including mid and lower-grade stainless steel. If that stuff doesn't get completely cleaned out of every nook & cranny, then every time it rains it re-activates. Put both of these conditions together, and you're going to get rust, so the build quality and materials used have to be held to the highest standards.

Since GM said that the new trucks would be camera-compatible, and it's obvious that they did not thoroughly investigate existing camera systems during their infotainment design, they should provide us with the stand-alone hard-wire cameras that they sell as an accessory. At a significant discount, of course.

Function depends on your model. It's clearly explained in the manual. Sport mode feels good, but I can't really tell, since I only have 1000 miles on mine, and everything is still super tight. Tow/Haul worked great while towing our 6500# travel trailer.

Ordered ours on 12/3. All LTZ & HC CCSB trucks at dealership were built in FW when we ordered. Ours was built on 2/20 in Mexico and just arrived in Delaware late afternoon of 4/11. Dealer pulled strings with district manager to have shipping expedited, or it may have taken two more weeks. I don't have issues with the Mexico plant. My Avalanche was built there, and it was perfect. Never had any issues with it. The good thing about the truck taking so long to build and ship, is that most of the issues have been corrected at this point. When your truck arrives at the dealership, they will install all of the latest updates.

I hope this helps you out. Saw this while viewing the manual prior to towing for the first time. This is where you should concentrate your efforts. Take your measurements, as shown on page 285, to determine if you need a WD hitch (it looks like you do). Starting on page 279, read ALL towing info regarding trailer weights, loading, hitches, and weight measuring. 284 Driving and Operating Towing Equipment Hitches Always use the correct hitch equipment for your vehicle. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads can affect the trailer and the hitch. Proper hitch equipment for your vehicle helps maintain control of the vehicle-trailer combination. Many trailers can be towed using a weight-carrying hitch which has a coupler latched to the hitch ball, or a tow eye latched to a pintle hook. Other trailers may require a weight-distributing hitch that uses spring bars to distribute the trailer tongue weight between your vehicle and trailer axles. See “Maximum Trailer Tongue Weight” under Trailer Towing (279) for weight limits with various hitch types. Avoid sharp turns when using a step-bumper hitch to prevent damage. Make wider turns to prevent contact between your trailer and your bumper. Consider using mechanical sway controls with any trailer. Ask a trailering professional about sway controls or refer to the trailer manufacturer's recommendations and instructions. Weight-Distributing Hitch and Adjustment A weight-distributing hitch may be useful with some trailers. Use the following guidelines to determine if a weight-distributing hitch should be used (shown on page 285). NOTE: Helper springs and air bags will not increase loading capacity ratings. You are still limited to the original factory ratings by law, and you should never exceed any of the listed weights on the door sticker. You may want to check with your state's DMV to confirm. If you are a racer, think of a WD hitch setup as being similar to subframe connectors on a race car, only they flex slightly, instead of being rigid. They make your tow vehicle and trailer act almost as if they were on the same chassis, with weight evenly distributed across all axles. Many brands are out there, but the added benefit of an Equal-i-zer brand hitch, is that it is also a sway control device. The towing experience is fantastic! No sway, despite tractor trailers blowing past you. It is the top-rated WD hitch in the RV industry. I bought mine from AdventureRV.net for around $425. Best I ever used on my car trailer or travel trailers. Closely follow the instruction manual, weigh your loaded truck and trailer as shown in your truck manual, properly distribute the trailer's weight, and you'll find that your truck will tow just fine without changing shocks or springs. Just be sure to stay within all limits.

21STCMC - Your pictures do not show your hitch setup, but you seem to have your trailer just sitting on the ball, with the truck springs taking all of the tongue load. That is an improper setup for the weight you are towing. You state that your trailer is 3642 lbs. when empty, and that your race car weighs 2945, for a total of 6587 lbs. This doesn't account for any tools or other equipment that you may also place in the trailer, plus the weight of the hitch, itself. At 6587 lbs., your tongue weight should be kept between 659 lbs. minimum, and 990 lbs. maximum. Your truck is probably rated for 930 lb. max tongue weight, according to your trailering sticker. You need to weigh your loaded rig at a truck scale so that you can position your race car to keep tongue weight within the proper range. CDNSS has posted a picture above that clearly shows that he is using an Equal-i-zer brand weight distributing hitch, one of the best on the market. It is also an anti-sway setup, so it cures both issues. This is a proper towing setup, as it evenly distributes the weight, while eliminating sway causedand porpoising over bumps and seams in the road. I hauled a '69 Camaro in a 24' race trailer, and multiple travel trailers for years, including with a 2002 Suburban half-ton, but always had to use a WD hitch, or I would be facing the same situation that you are. Our state inspection requires a properly rated WD hitch between my half-ton truck & trailer. I had to forego the Z71 option, and go for the Max Towing due to my tongue weights running close to 1000 lbs. I also use an Equal-I-zer brand hitch (10,000 lb total / 1,000 lb. tongue rating). Max Towing package allows for 1130 lb tongue weight. GOOD LUCK!

Our LTZ CCSB was ordered on 12/3/18, built on 2/20, but now seems to be lost in shipment. I was told 1-1/2 weeks ago that it was on it's way to Baltimore (80 miles away), but no updated ETA yet. GM district manager is trying to track it down. Four months and counting!

Are you using a weight distributing hitch with equalizer/spring bars? If not, you should be, and there's the answer to your problem. Any half-ton towing anything over 3000 - 3500 lbs. should be using a weight distribution setup. The equalizer bars act as a set of leaf springs between the truck and trailer, evenly distributing the weight, and equalizing ride height. I doubt that it's a problem with your springs or shocks. Was your Suburban a 2500 series by any chance (sounds like it if the hitch receiver was higher than on your AT4)? My trailer's GVWR is only 6500 lbs. but tongue weight is close to 1000 lbs, requiring me to use a weight-distributing hitch rated for 10,000 lb. total/1,000 lb. tongue. Without that, I'd have the same issue that you have. Your manual has trailering tips. You should distribute weight on the trailer so that the tongue weight is 10-15% of the total weight of the fully loaded trailer. Weight distribution hitches can be purchased in weight increments, and your hitch rating should exceed the trailers GVWR and tongue weight, so that you have a safety cushion. Any hitch shop or RV dealer should be able to set you up with a proper hitch.

Ryan, I forgot to mention that you have a sweet Camaro. We are also Camaro fans. We have a fully restored '69 coupe, and a '15 SS2/RS.

We ordered a loaded crew cab/short bed LTZ. It was built in Indiana on 2/20. I believe that the truck had to go to an upfitter for the spray-on bed liner, but that company is literally one block away from the factory. Major options are installed at the factory, but other options such as the Performance Upgrade Package, steps, tonneau cover, mud flaps, floor mats, etc. are all dealer installed, and have been at our dealership's parts department since the end of February! Jack

The incentives better improve in April. In March, only one discount applied to our truck. We were going to take the $1500 bonus with GM Financial, and then pay off the truck in 90 days, with no penalties. Looks like even that offer will be ending tomorrow. No other discounts applied to our truck. No GM loyalty bonus, either. Instead, they are giving the discounts to people that currently own other brands, trying to entice them to switch to GM. I'll be contacting our dealer tomorrow morning in an attempt to find out where our truck is. I'm going to be upset if tomorrow brings no new incentives and/or no updated ETA. Tuesday will be 4 months since we ordered! The only benefit being that in the meantime GM has come up with multiple software updates to fix a multitude of early issues. At least ours should be fully updated when we finally take delivery. We were planning on hitting the road with our travel trailer in April, but now it looks like we're going to have to cancel our reservations.

Same thing here. Got my trade-in appraisal the week my truck was built. Almost 6 weeks since being built, but still no updated ETA. Dealer told me that last month he had to personally go to train depot to retrieve vehicles buried so deep in the train yard that they'd never make it onto the haulers. He had to get special permission from GM, so that he could take enough employees with him to drive all of his vehicles to the dealership, because customers had been waiting so long for their deliveries.

Still waiting! Over 5 weeks since it was built. No word on updated ETA. Getting frustrated!

Mine was built on 2/20, but hasn't shown up at my dealer in Delaware yet. Checked with dealer last week, and he said that my truck was shipped, but no final ETA available. Original ETA was listed as 3/12. When he ran my VIN, he noticed my truck is tagged for several updates once it arrives.

More than likely, with the GM statement about the truck not being able to detect some trailers with LED lighting, they are probably referring to open utility or boat trailers that only have two basic taillights (each using a single LED bulb) and a license plate bulb. Three single LED bulbs would barely draw any power. (Think of a little Harbor Freight kit-trailer.) Modern travel, boat, or utility trailers manufactured with an LED light package will usually have running lights and/or massive LED tail/brake lights, so that there is enough of a power draw for the truck to recognize the trailer. LED conversions on older vehicles and trailers can also cause issues. EXAMPLE: I swapped out my standard 1157 bulbs on my '69 Camaro with 1157 LED replacements, but because the new bulbs don't draw enough power to be recognized by the flasher module, the module thinks the bulbs are burned out. You have to upgrade the flasher to an LED-compatible unit so that it can recognize the new bulbs despite the low power draw. They're just covering all of the bases.

Comments by bshort and Rocz3cqg follows a rational line of thinking - it just doesn't make sense. The camera should draw minimal power, but the problem has to lie within the trailer lighting module, somehow. Or, did Lance somehow wire the camera so that only part of the wiring is connected to the running lights? I still believe that wiring the camera directly to a 12v circuit that is not monitored by the trailer lighting module, or directly to the battery and a chassis ground, should be the cure. Good luck J-Stroke!

J-Stroke I hope you get to the bottom of this. I will only have our new truck to test the trailer camera. Hopefully, this will be the last of everyone's '19 GM truck and trailering issues. If it is a power issue, I hope that we can convince Lance to find another power source for the rear-facing cameras, so that future buyers won't face the same issues. Still waiting for our Silverado to show up at the dealership, so I can't be of any help to you on this end until it shows up. If it turns out that powering the camera directly from the battery solves the problem, then it's workable. I'm not sure if you can access the camera wiring somewhere inside the trailer, but William Leon at Lance may be able to help you. Otherwise, you'll have to cut & splice onto the 3" of exposed wire sticking out of the back of the trailer, while insulating the still-connected wire that runs inside. We have a 2375, and I don't see any way to access those wires without cutting a hole in the rear wall, inside the upper cabinets. Another option is to run a new power cable down the ladder to the frame, then forward to a 12v source. Where did you find the backup light wire termination? I just got a pair of LED lights to connect to the rear frame. Just starting to get weather warm enough to go out and crawl around under the trailer. GOOD LUCK!

My guess is that the truck is not supplying enough current to the trailer lights to power the camera and the lights. You may try wiring the camera directly to your trailer batteries. Our Lance trailer is a 2018, and I've been using it for two seasons. At first, I used the rear camera all of the time, but after a while, I found that it was more of an annoyance than it was beneficial. Someday I may want to use that camera again, but I have no immediate need for it, so I have time to watch and see how things turn out.

I may be facing the same issue with our trailer next month. We have a Lance trailer with rear-facing camera and dash monitor that plugs into a power outlet. Works well in our 2012 Silverado, but we're supposed to take delivery of our 2019 LTZ this coming week. One thing that we have learned is that when you have multiple electronic signals (OnStar, XM, WIFI, GPS, etc.) within a concentrated area, it can block other over-the-air signals, such as EZ Pass. Try turning some of those features off in the truck, and see if that allows the camera signal to come through. Just a thought. May be worth trying.