CamGTP

I will still go out and about as I normally do. Wear the mask if the place says I need to. People that don't want to go out don't have too. I'm just tired of the talk about rising this and rising that, of course it's going to happen. This thing isn't just going to up and leave and shutting things down again isn't going to stop it either.

It would be a guessing game for any of us. With that many issues it's bound to be electrical related. Could be anything from a bad ignition switch to poor connections on the harness's or bad grounds.

Or if people didn't drive at 75-80+ mph their fuel mileage would increase by a lot.

Gen 4 and Gen 5 engines will run at lower oil pressure than a Gen 3 engine.

Did you remove the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pan? They install those to limit oil pressure for the AFM system. Removing that should up the pressure a bit. And 20-25psi at hot idle is more than enough oil pressure.

Try another key. Could have tripped the security system too.

I do quick oil changes in 15 minutes, dump 8 quarts in and it's right on the money. If the truck is level or better yet rolled up on a block of wood to angle the drainplug downwards, it's even faster to drain it all. Even if it's slightly over full it won't matter. There is never 8 quarts in the oil pan when it's running and the crank will never slap the oil either.

Headers aren't really a must. You are already going to be adding 100-125 horsepower easy to this engine with the supercharger. Headers kinda open up a rabbit hole because they can make the exhaust super loud with no cats, leading to more money spent to quiet it down.

If it ran rich all the time it will burn through way more fuel than normal and slowly kill the cat converters because of the extra fuel running through them. I would say swapping the injectors will help a lot.

The L96 injectors may be larger than your old LY6 injectors. The L96 is flex fuel so they are larger than the non flex fuel injectors. Your fuel rail will be fine, just swap the injectors back.

Nothing "we" can do about it. They are on their own with this issue. No country is going to drop everything to help them.

I just can't tell if this is serious or not.

I only have that happen when I run E85 or it's really cold outside. I doubt that's your issue at this time of year. A really nice scan tool would let you see the low and high side fuel pressure, it could be taking longer than normal to build pressure.

Did you use your old LY6 injectors?

Yeah, it was 6200lbs with or without the receiver. The low rating is because of the 3.08 gearing. You'll be fine if you find a trailer around that weight, it will still pull it fine. Going heavy would really want a gear change to 3.42's or 3.73's because the 3.08's will make it work way harder to tow heavier loads.

I can have a large gathering wherever I want pretty much, I just have to say we are protesting.

The V8 to V4 is done automatically, there is no input from the driver. When certain situations call for V4 mode, it will make the switch for fuel economy reasons. This stuff came out in 2005 in the 5.3 in the smaller SUV's like the trailblazer/envoy and 2007+ GMT-900 trucks. How you haven't heard about in the past 15 years is kinda crazy. Either learn to live with it and let it do it's thing or buy a device to turn it off. There about 80 gajillion threads about the AFM disable devices.

It will be fine without a tune for now. The JBA headers aren't really an upgrade over the factory manifolds.

Took me maybe 30min start to finish taking my time. I lost maybe 1oz of fluid just removing the block, didn't even add any fluid back in to be honest.

Remove the transmission line thermostat if hot transmission temps concern you. Should drop it 30-40 degrees easy. Possibly only at really long idle times would the heat really rise to what's above it. Airflow under the truck while driving won't let it do much to the fluid temps.

Does anyone else still watch and count how many people wear a mask and gloves in their own personal car still?? A couple months into this stuff and I guess they still don't get it lol.

Yes.

As you know in many cases the price you pay means nothing now. The $30,000 truck is going down the same line that the $60,000 truck is. Everything but the interior and exterior packages is basically the same. Paint, engine, transmission on either of those trucks will have the same issues. Even on other brands, people like you and me would find stuff to complain about. They all have quality issues and everything has to meet the same emissions requirements so there will be no getting away from those features. This is why I don't buy new trucks, I let someone take the 20-40% hit and I pick it up for way cheaper 2-3 years later.

Yes, that is technically normal. The actual temp and the cluster will differ some, it's been that way on the 1999-2018 trucks. The newest trucks seems to be much more accurate. The stock thermostat should hold the temp around 93-105 C or 200-220 degrees F. The fan kicks on at 221F or 105C. The dealership saying it's normal to see up to 120deg C is not right, it would be over heating by then and probably boiling the coolant. Hook up a scan tool if you want to see the real coolant temp from the sensor on the engine.

There will be zero difference in performance or fuel mileage if just changing them out for the hell of it. Only if there was a problem with them would replacing them bring it back to what it was like before an issue. I've watched people spend $500+ on "performance" coil packs for LS engines, 3800's and others only to gain nothing but a lighter wallet. Half the time these new coils would be bunk out of the box or die within a year. Then they look at the guy with 300k miles still running his 17 year old coils without a single issue.