Granite7

Today, I took another pass at fishing the yellow wire through the firewall. I had to buy some wire hangers and that helped tremendously. Using the coat-hanger wire, I was able to feel my way through the inner boot. It certainly wasn't any easy route. I figured out that the angle of the wire going in is only about 15 degrees above horizontal. It felt about like I was blindly threading a needle. Once I got the wire through, I still couldn't see it under the dash. I ended up having to remove the 3 nuts from the X16A junction box and pulling the box away from the firewall. It didn't move much, maybe an inch, but it helped me see the coat-hanger wire sticking through. I was able to stick my hand behind the X16A and guide the coat-hanger out the left side. I taped the yellow wire onto the coat-hanger and gently fished it back through. It works! Hallelujah, praise the Lord!

I finally got around to doing this. I have successfully installed the harness and lights. I'm stuck on the final step - fishing the yellow wire through the firewall boots. Anyone who has done this: what tips can you offer me on fishing the yellow wire? Did you have to remove or loosen the bolts on the X61A junction box to fish the yellow wire? What is the approximate angle to push a socket extension or screwdriver through the engine bay side boot in order to hit the right spot on the firewall behind the X61A?

The factory tires were finally below the legal treadwear, so I bought new tires. Falken Wildpeak AT3W LT275/70R18 Front Bilstein 6112 on highest setting Rear 2.25" Readylift block

The rattle can is going to look like ass and get worse every month in the Colorado sun. The challenge will be getting even coverage by overlapping sprays before it flashes dry. That will be nearly impossible to do with a rattle can on a large surface, but it probably looks good enough for a 100 foot finish. The real kicker is when you finally break down and pay someone extra to strip off your rattle can and paint it right. I haven’t even mentioned the hazards of breathing that stuff. Find someone with the right spray equipment, the right PPE, and a ventilated shop. Finding someone with that in their garage isn’t very likely. Maaco ought to be able to handle a 10 foot finish. I would recommend calling Gerber Collision Repair in Longmont. I’m not positive that they’ll do it, but they’re good folks. They’ve been our go to for PDR and a couple fender benders. They do excellent work and they’ve been reasonable on the things we have paid out of pocket for. I’m sure it’ll be more than Maaco, but at least it’ll give you an idea of what a professional charges.

I’ve had the RL 2.25 rear blocks for about 9 months and I don’t have any vibrations in the truck. My front is leveled with Bilstein 6112s on the top notch. I have a Leer topper on the bed and the truck looks level. I need to measure it for sure, but I am wondering if I would like it a little better with an add-a-leaf to get back a little more rake.

The Apple lightning connector is a pos. Make sure you blow out the connector on your phone. A spec of dust or pocket lint will cause the exact problem day after day. The cables also wear out quickly. Try a new one. Then thank Apple for making this crappy proprietary design so they can reap an incremental 25 cents every time someone orders a replacement iPhone certified cable.

That’s for new tires, not tires used for 6k miles. GLWS

Why did it take 15 years for you to be outraged over it?

Did you realize this article is 15 years old?

He went full chrome. Never go full chrome. [emoji1787] Hey, it looks nice and shiny. As long as you’re happy, that’s a good looking truck. [emoji1360]

You’re posting answers voluntarily. Why get upset when someone asks a question? If you don’t want to answer, then don’t. I can’t blame a guy for not reading through hundreds of posts that aren’t answering his question anyway.

I had the Bilstein 4600s on my 2000 Silverado and I would highly recommend them. Since you are not lifting, you don’t need the 5100s. The 4600s will give you a smoother ride than the 5100s.

I don’t see where changing the front would change the ride in the rear any noticeable amount.

Thanks for the input folks. I know you like your Amsoil. More power to you, but it’s not for me.

I’m going to be doing the same thing over the winter. I see you went with the full synthetic ATF. What made you decide synthetic over the standard? I’m a little puzzled that the full synthetic is much cheaper on Amazon.

I’m due for this very soon. Thanks for posting. Will you be posting the T case also?

This was true of my truck as well. It has had that tick for the past year I have owned it. It was only slight, so I chalked it up to injector noise. After the new pump, I noticed the engine was much quieter (no tick).

Of the vacuum pump?At 10,000’ I would get the following error message after idling for 2 or 3 minutes. Truck felt hard to stop at times, more so when backing up. [At home @5,000’ I didn’t get the message.] Service write-up says they saw Code C0299 set. I imagine this is the flag that the error message above was triggered, or more likely the low vacuum condition was detected.

Well shucks, I could have used the extra cash! Haha

At first my eyes popped out of my head. $4k!? Then I realized you’re getting the lift also. I was gonna say, 5100s install and align ought to be about $600 plus shocks.

Is that the whine of a supercharger I hear?

If you get a chance, I might be interested in this too. Anyone have one with pictures?

Here is Katie, my 2016 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab Short Bed Z71 in Tungsten Metallic. I brought her home a year ago last month. 36,000 miles Bilstein 6112 front shocks at 1.875” lift Bilstein 5100 rear shocks ReadyLift 2.25” Rear blocks (1” of lift) Rhino Liner Leer 100XR with Thule Roof rack and gear net Aluminum under body shield kit (23176881) Auto Ventshade (AVS) Bugflector Dark Smoke Hood Shield (23570) Husky Floor liners front and back seats Husky Liner front and read mud guards Black bowties front and rear 8AWG Constant +12V and Ground to the bed Power distribution blocks in the bed Double USB charger in the bed, continuous 12V LED Cargo Box Lighting (UF2) Illuminated push button mod for bed lighting Next in line for an upgrade will be new tires. Falken Wildpeak LT275/70/R18.

Thanks! Sadly I brought home quite a few new scratches yesterday. “Colorado Pinstripes” Long story short: I love it! I can feel the weight back there. Good: the suspension rides nice. Bad: it isn’t as peppy as I liked with an empty bed. Years ago I would have never had a topper. I had no idea why someone would put one of these on their truck. I bought one for my old 2000 Silverado for $500 on Craigslist a few years ago. The difference was amazing! My gear was dry. I had instant shelter to sleep for weekend trips. I could fit my entire hunting camp (or all of the family’s gear too). I bought this truck last year and went with a basic tonneau for a year. It worked. Barely. I could just fit everything we needed for a week of camping, but the cooler had to go on a hitch-mounted carrier. I wouldn’t sleep in the bed under a tonneau. I love this truck! I can go anywhere and do anything I want to in it. I could live out of it for weeks if needed.

Made a day trip to the mountains to do some scouting. I set a new 50mi high mileage on the way home. Yes, downhill with a tailwind. Here’s the overall round trip. Up the mountain, 4 wheeling, and back down the mountain.