davidr83

Simply for looks. Factory puts a rake on the trucks to counter the rear squat while towing/hauling heavy items.

Just tried the LEGENDS code, didn't work on the GMC accessories website. Also tried it on gmpartsdirect and no go

EBC, maybe the truck yellow stuff pads.

Pot holes! I hit one not to long ago and threw my alignment off just enough that I had have it re-aligned as well. Happened about 10000 miles. First for me since my previous trucks took potholes like a champ and only needed to be re-aligned after suspension mods.

Check this out, it's a neat little tool that will help you out and let's you play with different offsets. It doesn't let you input wheel widths but does let you change tire sizes and compare 2 different combos and shows how they are different https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

I had plenty of people mistake mine for actual performance brakes. They weren't some Joe shmo either, they had modded performance vehicles of there own. I would always laugh and tell them they were just covers when asked about them. I did have power stop slotted rotors and upgraded pads tho. The covers were red with "Denali" on them. And no they didn't keep the brakes from cooling down enough to matter, they are made from thin, sturdy metal and only cover the outer part of the caliper and a small amount on top, not the entire caliper. I wasn't running hot laps on an auto cross track, strictly a daily driver. Are they a bit tacky? Some will argue they are (obviously ^), but that's all personal preference. This time around, I'll probably paint the stockers if even that cuz the covers are kinda pricey for what they are.

I had some on my last truck and they held up well. I had them on for about 2 years with no issues

There's quite a few members on here with spacers on their stock wheel setups

I believe ready lift makes a set just for this purpose on the rear of trucks with lifts. Slip on style spacers, if I remember right they were 1/2" thickness and I think I remember seeing something about replacing wheel studs with longer ones. I didn't dig too hard on that since I wasn't needing to go out that far from the hub. But I think gorilla makes some stock style lugs that have extended threads that you could use with a slip on spacer depending on how thick of a spacer you use. On the Bora spacers, they can make just about anything you need if you call them. Typically the spacer will have the same size lip as the factory hub to keep the stock wheel setup hub centric and not lug centric. If you're going an inch out with spacers, you will need to replace the stock wheel studs with longer ones if they make them that long or using spacers with stud/lugs of their own and having to cut down the stock ones so the wheel sits flush against the spacer in the same manner as stock setup. Depending on stock wheels, you can use 1.5" if they have pockets on the back side of the wheel, or if not 1.75" spacers if you don't want to cut the stock wheel studs down at all. Hopefully this makes sense and helps you out, it's still early and my brain is still trying to get going lol

Here you can see the lug that's extended towards the hub that goes into the wheel

As requested. You can see the extended thread lugs take up what's lost from using the spacer. The extended thread goes into the lug wheel pocket so you don't loose any thread engagement.

This is incorrect. I personally have some 10mm spacers from BORA and they have the lip for the wheel to sit on. Also you can buy extended thread lugs that will allow you to use the stock wheel studs.

I got mine Feb 27th and I'm at 10700 already. Best thing I like, the fuel mileage, the least thing, The lack of power on the top end or the ability to do any mods. That's a little unfair tho as I came from a procharged, headers back exhaust, fully tuned 6.2 with about 10psi of boost.

Looks like that second pic is similar. The sharkfin antenna cable looks like it's the one on.the left so very likely

The connectors are on the passenger side under the dash. If you lay on the floor and look up behind the glove box, you will be able to see. You simply unplug the stock connectors, plug the harness into the radio module and then plug the stock connectors into the harness. They also have a video on YouTube pointing out the location. I don't have Bose and I ended up getting the aqua combo connectors. I added the extra length cuz I wasnt sure where my setup was going initially and I had plenty of wire left over. But I don't think the 4ft length would have made it unless I used the lc2i or something similar and mounted that up front and then ran RCA cable to the rear. The RCA cables go from the lc2i to the amp. The extended amp turn on wire will be dependent of the amp location distance from the lc2i. My amp turns on when it senses signal from the regular speaker wires from the harness. I skipped the lc2i as my amp has a speaker line in connection built in. If you skip the harness, you will need to find the speaker wires and tap into them to get signal for a line converter. I technically didn't need their harness since my amp has speaker level inputs but I wanted the ease of the harness and not having to tap into any factory wires. It will be easy peasy to remove too.

Just checked my email, that was mid June when they replied and said they "anticipate around early fall for release", if things haven't change since then.

S&b was in the process of developing one when I reached out to them about 2 months ago. Banks is developing the derringer (posted on their website) but was told they paused due to covid. (Unconfirmed if they actually did stop though)

You need to install some shims. Something like 2* or more depending on the angles. Belltech sells them for about $25. They install between the spring pack and the axle. I finally installed my drop shackles last night and went straight to 2* shims at the same time and had no weird vibrations at any speeds all the way up to the speed limiter or while slowing down.

What's the wheel width and offset?

98 mph here too with a 3.0L/2wd elevation

I wonder if using the HD trucks part that stillen got the idea from is a cheaper option or if it would even fit. Nevermind, the opening is on the opposite side. Smh one of those days I guess

S&B is working on an intake, nothing for bolt on exhaust either so going custom is the only way but I would wait on that. I did a 4" filter back system and it hardly made a difference sound wise. Not worth the time/money in my opinion

If you don't Wana mess with wrapping the fog light housing, the ones on the elevation trucks are solid black. But it may be more cost effective to wrap yours. Edit..nevermind.. after looking at your pics and comparing to my truck, looks like you have some extra trim around the housing that I don't have.

Keep an eye out for the side wall on those atturos. I ran that same size for a while on some stock 22x9" wheels on my previous truck and had issues with the sidewalls on 2 different sets. The tread life is great on those tires and once balanced they drove fine just the side walls started splitting after about a year of use and I tried air pressures from 32-38psi. Truck was a 2013 AWD Denali with a level lift in front. I did have the alignment checked after the level too. But also I never rotated the tires since tread wear was pretty dang even across all 4