Stand By

This is more of an observation on the lack of winter performance. I don't really expect a fix. Unless an engineer sees this and improves future models. For those of you in the north, get a quality snow brush/ice scraper. Looks like the days of letting it warm up and powering the snow off the windshield, even light loads, are over. Those of you in the south that visit the north, get one and put it in the back in case you have to visit. It seems if there is the slightest resistance to the wipers, they shut down in place. There is no turning the speed setting up to push through like you use to be able to do. When they stop, you have to completely clear the windshield to get them going again. Leaving the wipers on the night before, so you can remote start in the morning to warm the truck up, only to find you still need to allow extra time before leaving for ice chipping and snow removal. The remote start program is counter productive as well, since it shuts itself down too soon for the vehicle to build adequate heat. Even if you are able to park in a garage overnight, you're still susceptible after getting out of work, or while shopping, etc. Not quite the issue you'd expect from a vehicle manufactured in the snowbelt. Wonder if I can bypass the computer with my upfitter switches. Just kidding. Maybe not.

I wonder why they can't figure it out. My 6.6 CC standard bed steering is great. Only 7000 into it, but I've towed heavy a few times. Crappy Michigan roads. And I haven't been gentle with it in the woods. It tracks just fine. If there is a lot of crown to the road, it will amplify it with these wide 20" tires. Often I find myself looking for or worrying about potential problems after reading about the issues here. Thankfully I've been spared to this point. Also glad I didnt have them replace the back window with a slider yet.

Sounds like you might've been shorted. The tech should've also shown you the fresh dipstick reading. Did you get an invoice to show how much oil they used? If this did occur, better make sure they lubed your chassis as well.

Very satisfied with the factory spray in. It is extremely nonskid, but sprays off easily. I've had some small boulders bouncing around in the back and only the non skid got scuffed up. There were no splits or chipping in the finish. Hoping it's uv safe as well. Glad to be away from a slide in liner. Also, I believe that applying it to a fresh paint job allows for a chemical bond which is more durable than a mechanical bond from sanding.

I have a 2500 with only the part time t case and have not experienced this in this truck. I would first look for a slip joint or a splined shaft in the driveline. Known noise issue on grand cherokee with the NP242 which has full time option. Some synthetic grease was the fix. Being gm didn't lube other chassis parts before leaving the factory, good chance something else got missed.

Used are selling high and quick down here, too. Bought mine end of April. July I got a letter wanting to buy it back and deal on a new one, which nobody was stocking yet.

That's interesting. I was gonna put one of these under the hood somewhere, to be nostalgic

Yeah, that's the way I'm leaning too. Thanks.

I haven't actually measured turning radius, but it's pretty good on these. I have a 2500 with heavy front springs. Ride is fine, don't believe a 3500 ride would be different. You don't get into the extra leaves until loaded. The 3500 does have a larger rear diff.

In addition to torsion bars, you're getting the heavier duty alternator with the plow prep.

Hopefully a few wrecked 2021s make it into circulation and the replacement price will get reasonable for a swap.

Maybe rinsing it off with dawn dish soap and water? Might break up the oil base produced, leaving the wax behind. No pressure washing, of course.

What kind of speedometer and/or odometer differences are you noticing?

Only quirk I've run into is for this time of the year. Been taking Gibby out to the woods looking for little birdies. We come back all worn out and she just stands there looking at me when I open the back door to let her in. She's waiting for me to pick her up and put her in, being so high up. Not like when we first leave the house, she pops up there like a spring. also nice being able to slide the gun case under the rear bench without obstruction.

By chance have you looked or done any comparison of the halogen housings against the led, for possibly swapping the internals from one to the other?

The only real extra you get is the option to lower windows with the remote. But it will lower them all the way and you can't make them go back up with the remote. So don't inadvertantly lower them on a rainy when you're trying to start it.

There's a pattern.

Thread needs a bump. Everybody got wet and dirty yesterday. Gibby's first kill is also her first double.

Having bought at the end of April, I just got a letter from the dealer asking to buy it back and they would give me a deal on a new one stating high demand for used. Of, course nothing mentioned about how long is have to wait.

I didn't need a diesel, just a 3/4 ton for pulling the boat which is a bit much for a half ton. Generally an hour each way, sometimes more. Initially I was concerned about the unloaded mileage, but I don't have much of a commute anyway. Was a little jealous of the 6.2 being slightly better, then realized if you add a couple thousand pounds to the half ton to even out their weight, they'd probably be at least the same mileage or the 6.6 slightly better.

I remember years a go when extended cabs became popular, there were some after market vendors that made power window kits for the rear window. I don't think sliders were available for awhile, just like the 3rd door option in 97, finally. Curious what kind of market there would be right now for a power rear window install to alleviate the leak headaches?

There was also a strike into last fall. Then when allowed to open from the covid lockdown, I believe there were supply issues from vendors catching up. Then, recently the American Axle fire, not certain if it affected 2500s directly, but being in Michigan along with the Flint plant for the 2500s, I'd suspect they were effected?

These are variable timing aren't they? The computer sets the timing and torque to your needs. I've run 87 for over 5000 miles without a hiccup. Including some heavier towing in hot weather. Dealer gave me the truck with a full tank and never advised to do anything special with it.

Thinking about a plow for mine as well. Do you have plow prep package? It uses heavier torsion bars. Might put the plow on first to see how much squat you get before you decide on which lift/level kit. Just thinking out loud, but if you go more aggressive like 2-3", the plow weight added to steep ball joint angles might be rough without aftermarket control arms. If you go around 1-2" any squatting from the plow weight might get you back down to original ball joint angles and your control arms might be fine? I'd like to see some pics after your plow is mounted, because I'll be shopping. Also, my truck came with the good years, though I'm also a Cooper fan. I don't plan on throwing these out until wore though, unless they suck this winter. I have Mastercraft ATs on my 05, which are made by Cooper. So are Micky Thompson's. Had Cooper Mudders on a lifted Grand Cherokee previously. Very similar tread to MT Mudders. Great tires, but I think the Mudders would wear fast under plow weight, though.

Thanks for the correction. I meant I had the 220 since mine came with the plow prep.