There's a post regarding this problem on another forum. I don't know if it's OK to put a link to another forum. In short, there are aluminum heater hoses behind the lower glovebox. They need to be tied with a wire-tie. Several people on that forum with this exact problem fixed it this way. I haven't done it. I plan to point this out to the dealer when I take it in for my free oil change service.
Andersen Ultimate Hitch connected to a gooseball in the OEM puck hole. 40lbs light and drives like a dream (no clunks like my Superglide used to do). Adds clearance from the cab as well depending on how you configure it.
All I care about is that it's way nicer than my 2004 Ram was. I love that it has a volume knob and knobs for the climate control. I saw one guy on YT that threw a fit over the location and operation of the Tow/Haul button. My old truck had it on the end of the shifter. I don't really mind the new location and love that it stays on persistently with restarts for a while so you don't have to keep turning it on after short stops.
Njmurvin replied to Mardo's topic in 6.6L Duramax Diesel & Allison Powertrain (L5P/MGM)Third this^^^^ My truck has the OEM pucks. It also came with the Curt hitch package. I just plug the goose ball in the hole in the bed and drop the 40lb hitch over it and cinch it down. Actually, I have a padded mat (made from a Home Depot rubber mat) that I put under the hitch to help protect the bed. It tows beautifully and there's plenty of clearance from the cab on tight turns.,
I also have the Andersen Ultimate Hitch. Do you have the OEM towing package with the pucks in your truck bed? You can measure your 5th wheel pinbox length and compare against measurements from the center of the gooseball position to your tailgate and side rails of your bed to determine if the AUH can be installed to get the full added 9" of cab clearance. The process is described in the installation manual for the hitch which you can download from their website. In my case, my pinbox (Airborne) clears both the tailgate and side rails allowing me to enjoy the full extra 9" of clearance to the cab that the Andersen offers. Due to the longer GM bed, the extra 2" setback by the factory and the 9" added by the Andersen setup, my trailer connected with the fixed hitch clears my cab by more than it did with the Pullrite Superglide on my Ram 3500 short bed. In addition, chances are that your trailer is new(er) and has the front corners carved out for added cab clearance. I would be very surprised if you will need a slider hitch.
Last weekend, my truck received an over the air update. If it told me what the purpose of the update was, I must have missed it. It took about 15 minutes to complete. Does anyone know what the update is supposed to fix?
I pull a 2011 Arctic Fox 27.5L fifth wheel using an Andersen Ultimate hitch connected to the OEM gooseneck puck (the GM gooseneck ball was ordered by the dealer with my truck). The trailer weighs about 12K lbs and the truck pulls it effortlessly. The Duramax paired with the 10 speed transmission is a towing dream. The exhaust brake takes a bit of getting used to (coming from an old school Cummins with a PacBrake) but does a nice job holding speed on downhill grades. If I had any complaints, it's mostly how tall this truck is. The axles on my fifth wheel are already flipped. The trailer rides just a touch "nose up" but it's acceptable. I haven't towed enough on flat to semi-flat ground yet to judge mpg. But, I wasn't impressed with the mpg I got pulling up into the local mountains (in the neighborhood of 9mpg).
I haven't used a charger on my Silverado yet. But I used it once on my Ram 3500 which also had dual batteries. I left the ignition on one night and drained the batteries pretty well. Next morning it wouldn't start (surprise!!). I connected the charger to the driver side battery only and in a few hours, the truck started right up. I would also try to find out where the parasitic drain is. I have left my truck in the garage for at least 2 weeks on multiple occasions and had no problem firing it up.
I don't know how the factory wireless carplay units work. But the carplay2air units use BOTH bluetooth and wireless. They use bluetooth at startup to send the credentials to the app on your phone to connect to the wifi running on carplay2air dongle. Once the wifi connection is made, carplay starts.
If I spent more time driving my truck it might be worth it to me. I have the carplay2air and it works most of the time - although frustrating when it doesn't. I really only need carplay for long trips to get Waze which also sucks the phone battery dry - so the cable connection takes care of that (I don't have wireless charging).
That's exactly what I expect. My 04.5 Dodge Ram 3500 would struggle a bit with that climb. It was bone stock with a 4 speed 48RE and 3.73 gears. My CTS2 monitor alarm for EGTs was set at 1400 degrees and even the stock truck had no problem exceeding that whenever I buried my foot in it on that long climb. So, I would have to back it off from time to time to keep the EGTs in line - for peace of mind. It made for a tense 15-20 minutes on the long Sherwin Grade. My hope is that I can set the cruise on my new truck to 60-65, sit back and let the extra hp, torque and that 10 speed do their work.
Mine actually came with the bracket still in a bag in the back seat. Yes, it is riveted. For that reason I made the dealer install it as I'm in an area where cops will go out of their way to ticket you for "no front plate".
I don't really care how well mine pulls a competition sled or how it pulls 30k up the Ike (TFL test). All I care about is how well it pulls my 12k lb 5th wheel up (and down) the long 6 percent grades that I climb going to the Eastern Sierras. I will be testing that in June. I have made a couple of trips with shorter 6 percent (and more) climbs and it performed beautifully (especially on the way down - once I figured out how to best use the e-brake).
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