Njmurvin

12K lbs Arctic Fox 5th wheel using Andersen Ultimate Hitch.

I have a similar shaking/bouncing feeling at idle (mostly in drive) ever since I had the last emissions recall (DPF temp) performed. I haven't taken it into the dealership yet to have it looked at. Others have reported the same issue and suggest that an "injector small quantity reset" procedure fixes it.

What I meant by killing them is force-closing them. Depending on the phone you have it's either a double click of the home button or, if you have a later phone with no home button, it's a up swipe from the bottom of the screen. Apple tells you that these apps don't use any resources or drain battery but my experience in the past with Waze tells me otherwise. As a result, I make it a habit to force-close Waze after I arrive at my destination whenever I use it.

Waze is famous for draining your phone battery and running it hot. I didn't think Waze, Google Maps and Apple Maps (my new favorite of the 3) would load and run on your phone unless you select them from the CarPlay screen or launch them on the phone while connected to CarPlay. If they're running in the background on your phone, try killing them before connecting to CarPlay.

It depends on how much camper towing, what sized camper, and what sized mountains. You'll never regret a diesel when towing a load over 10-12K in the mountains. Strictly for your boat, I'd go with gas.

You need to get to the Apple CarPlay home screen. From there you should have access to multiple navigation apps (Waze and Apple Maps for sure and I believe Google Maps as well). The available apps may depend on what you have installed on your iPhone. You might have to scroll through multiple home page screens to see them. It's been a while since I used it. Next time I'm in my truck, I'll launch ACP and get more specific steps if you need them. I used to prefer Waze but I have gravitated to Apple Maps. I like how it taps my wrist with alerts on my Apple Watch and it seems to give more detailed guidance (like what lane to get into before a turn to make sure you're in the right position for the next maneuver).

newdude, I won't dispute what you say. However, I have to agree with nards444 that the Warranty Manual is very confusing on this matter. On page 5 of my 2020 New Vehicle Limited Warranty manual, it specifically states under Diesel Components Coverage: Exclusions: Excluded from the powertrain component coverage are sensors, wiring, connectors, engine radiator, coolant hoses, coolant, and heater core. Coverage on the engine cooling system begins at the inlet to the water pump and ends with the thermostat housing and/or outlet that attaches to the return hose. Also excluded is the starter motor, entire pressurized fuel system (in-tank fuel pump, pressure lines, fuel rail(s), regulator, injectors, and return line) as well as the Engine/Powertrain Control Module and/or module programming. However, if you continue reading about the Federal and California Emissions warranties, later on page 24 it lists the components covered by these emissions warranties (below is a subset of the items which pertain to the fuel system). Fuel Management System AFM Exhaust Valves and Controller Diesel Fuel Injection Pump * Diesel Direct Fuel Injector and Rail * HD Duramax Fuel Pressure Regulator * HD Duramax Fuel Pipes * Fuel Injector Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuel Pressure Sensor Fuel Pump Power Module Fuel Rail Assembly Fuel Tank Fuel Pump Fuel Temperature Sensor High Pressure Fuel Pump (SIDI) If I am reading this correctly, the items listed above are covered under the Federal Emissions Warranty for 5yrs/50k miles. However, if you're in California or one of the several states that get the California Emissions Warranty, then the items above (like the Diesel Direct Fuel Injector and Rail) that are flagged with an "*" are covered for 7yrs/70k. Once again, GM could not have made this more confusing. For some of these parts, they go from "specifically excluded" to 5/50 or 7/70 depending on where you live.

My Z71 package came with all weather floor mats. No joke there. Love them. And who doesn't love those red badges?

Others reported a "shaking at idle" along with the reduced fuel economy. Mine has a slight shake that it didn't have before the update.

That's how my 2020 works. I also thought a single push of the button would unlock the tailgate. But maybe it's because I'm also carrying the key fob. I'll have to experiment with this.

FYI ... if you use T/H, turn the truck off and restart it within ~4 hours, it will automatically start up in T/H mode. However, the same is not true for the exhaust brake. You must restart it every time you restart the truck if you want it active.

I had it done on mine about a month or so ago.

I always get the annoying water that's puked out the air intake scoops onto the hood, grille and bumper after washing my truck (I always go around the block after washing so I can wipe it clean before putting away). But, I've never really checked under the hood. I guess I will now ...

Ha! I wish. Here in SoCal, BEFORE the war in Ukraine I would do that trick and it was usually slightly over $100. At over $6/gal, I'm afraid it'll be closer to 1/4 tank to play that game.

I'm doing nothing special now. But, when the truck was brand new, I did the 500 mile break-in by taking the freeway from Ventura County to Bakersfield to purchase my tow hitch. I did my best to keep the speed under 60 but that was nearly impossible for me (big rigs were passing me on inclines - embarrassing). So, I varied it between 55 and 65. Using only the lie-o-meter, I was averaging anywhere between 20 and 35mpg. As I recall, it's a moving average of the last 50 miles or so. Anyway, the point of this is that speed is the enemy of fuel economy on these trucks. Probably the best thing you can do to increase your mpg is to keep your speed down.