Njmurvin

12K lbs Arctic Fox 5th wheel using Andersen Ultimate Hitch.

I have a similar shaking/bouncing feeling at idle (mostly in drive) ever since I had the last emissions recall (DPF temp) performed. I haven't taken it into the dealership yet to have it looked at. Others have reported the same issue and suggest that an "injector small quantity reset" procedure fixes it.

What I meant by killing them is force-closing them. Depending on the phone you have it's either a double click of the home button or, if you have a later phone with no home button, it's a up swipe from the bottom of the screen. Apple tells you that these apps don't use any resources or drain battery but my experience in the past with Waze tells me otherwise. As a result, I make it a habit to force-close Waze after I arrive at my destination whenever I use it.

Waze is famous for draining your phone battery and running it hot. I didn't think Waze, Google Maps and Apple Maps (my new favorite of the 3) would load and run on your phone unless you select them from the CarPlay screen or launch them on the phone while connected to CarPlay. If they're running in the background on your phone, try killing them before connecting to CarPlay.

It depends on how much camper towing, what sized camper, and what sized mountains. You'll never regret a diesel when towing a load over 10-12K in the mountains. Strictly for your boat, I'd go with gas.

You need to get to the Apple CarPlay home screen. From there you should have access to multiple navigation apps (Waze and Apple Maps for sure and I believe Google Maps as well). The available apps may depend on what you have installed on your iPhone. You might have to scroll through multiple home page screens to see them. It's been a while since I used it. Next time I'm in my truck, I'll launch ACP and get more specific steps if you need them. I used to prefer Waze but I have gravitated to Apple Maps. I like how it taps my wrist with alerts on my Apple Watch and it seems to give more detailed guidance (like what lane to get into before a turn to make sure you're in the right position for the next maneuver).

newdude, I won't dispute what you say. However, I have to agree with nards444 that the Warranty Manual is very confusing on this matter. On page 5 of my 2020 New Vehicle Limited Warranty manual, it specifically states under Diesel Components Coverage: Exclusions: Excluded from the powertrain component coverage are sensors, wiring, connectors, engine radiator, coolant hoses, coolant, and heater core. Coverage on the engine cooling system begins at the inlet to the water pump and ends with the thermostat housing and/or outlet that attaches to the return hose. Also excluded is the starter motor, entire pressurized fuel system (in-tank fuel pump, pressure lines, fuel rail(s), regulator, injectors, and return line) as well as the Engine/Powertrain Control Module and/or module programming. However, if you continue reading about the Federal and California Emissions warranties, later on page 24 it lists the components covered by these emissions warranties (below is a subset of the items which pertain to the fuel system). Fuel Management System AFM Exhaust Valves and Controller Diesel Fuel Injection Pump * Diesel Direct Fuel Injector and Rail * HD Duramax Fuel Pressure Regulator * HD Duramax Fuel Pipes * Fuel Injector Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuel Pressure Sensor Fuel Pump Power Module Fuel Rail Assembly Fuel Tank Fuel Pump Fuel Temperature Sensor High Pressure Fuel Pump (SIDI) If I am reading this correctly, the items listed above are covered under the Federal Emissions Warranty for 5yrs/50k miles. However, if you're in California or one of the several states that get the California Emissions Warranty, then the items above (like the Diesel Direct Fuel Injector and Rail) that are flagged with an "*" are covered for 7yrs/70k. Once again, GM could not have made this more confusing. For some of these parts, they go from "specifically excluded" to 5/50 or 7/70 depending on where you live.

My Z71 package came with all weather floor mats. No joke there. Love them. And who doesn't love those red badges?

Others reported a "shaking at idle" along with the reduced fuel economy. Mine has a slight shake that it didn't have before the update.

That's how my 2020 works. I also thought a single push of the button would unlock the tailgate. But maybe it's because I'm also carrying the key fob. I'll have to experiment with this.

FYI ... if you use T/H, turn the truck off and restart it within ~4 hours, it will automatically start up in T/H mode. However, the same is not true for the exhaust brake. You must restart it every time you restart the truck if you want it active.

I had it done on mine about a month or so ago.

I always get the annoying water that's puked out the air intake scoops onto the hood, grille and bumper after washing my truck (I always go around the block after washing so I can wipe it clean before putting away). But, I've never really checked under the hood. I guess I will now ...

Ha! I wish. Here in SoCal, BEFORE the war in Ukraine I would do that trick and it was usually slightly over $100. At over $6/gal, I'm afraid it'll be closer to 1/4 tank to play that game.

I'm doing nothing special now. But, when the truck was brand new, I did the 500 mile break-in by taking the freeway from Ventura County to Bakersfield to purchase my tow hitch. I did my best to keep the speed under 60 but that was nearly impossible for me (big rigs were passing me on inclines - embarrassing). So, I varied it between 55 and 65. Using only the lie-o-meter, I was averaging anywhere between 20 and 35mpg. As I recall, it's a moving average of the last 50 miles or so. Anyway, the point of this is that speed is the enemy of fuel economy on these trucks. Probably the best thing you can do to increase your mpg is to keep your speed down.

I also have the factory pucks. I went with the Andersen Ultimate Hitch. 40lbs so it's easy to get in and out. It can give you an extra 9" of clearance (depending on how you're able to configure the hitch and adapter) from the cab if you're concerned about hitting on sharp turns. My trailer has a pretty flat front (unlike Michael621 above) and has plenty of clearance on even the sharpest turns. Although it's rated at 24k lbs and 4500lbs pin weight, I probably wouldn't have chosen it for a trailer that heavy. Mine is half that and it works great for me.

If I'm reading the 2020 warranty correctly, DPF should be covered for 5yrs/50K according to the Federal Emissions Warranty. In California, that's extended to 7yrs/70K.

So much to unpack here .... If you wait long enough, new truck prices and incentives will eventually come back to "normal". But, your used truck will likely be worth less as well. 10k-12k trailer is probably the tipping point between gas and diesel. Can you tow this with a gasser? Yes. If you tow in mountains, it will make a difference in power and fuel consumption. Since you like Fords, you might want to check out their gasser (Godzilla) with 10 speed transmission. In my area (SoCal), we couldn't find a dealership that would honor employee discounts when my brother was searching for a new truck (summer of 2021). I've read similar posts from other parts of the country. Hopefully, that will change over time if things return to "normal". I don't believe that GM has officially announced when the interiors will be updated/redesigned.

I have a 2020 Silverado 3500 CCSB 4x4 SRW and its payload rating is 3890 lbs. It's an LT trim with leather and factory towing pucks. The trucks you mention are probably heavier due to more features and options which would reduce the payload. Gas trucks have higher payloads due to their lighter drivetrains. With a 15K fifth wheel, you may want to consider a DRW.

Mine came with full weather proof Z71 floor mats. I don't know if those come with all Z71 packages but, for me, that's the best part. Not having driven a non-Rancho equipped truck, I don't know what the difference is. They seem to do an OK job with my fifth wheel.

If the trailer's "dry" pin weight is already over your rated pin weight capacity, then this may be too much trailer for your truck. Unlike your truck, my understanding is that a trailer's published ratings are not adjusted for optional equipment. So, it's likely that your pin weight is higher even before adding water, your cargo and other stuff to the trailer. My LT 3500 SRW max gooseneck pin weight is only 3180 lbs (3895 lbs payload). So, loaded, that trailer may be in dually territory. That said, I'd be curious to know how GM accounts for ~700 lbs difference between max payload and max pin weight. Come to think of it - a couple of people, an 85 lb labrador retriever and a Pullrite Superglide would come pretty close.

To be honest, the "other" truck I considered before purchasing my LT Duramax was a Ford equipped with the Godzilla gas engine and 10 speed trans. While it has more HP than my previous truck (04.5 Ram 3500), the torque was lower and it has to really rev to get to its max specs. My trailer (@12K lbs) is borderline for "needing" a diesel. What put me over the edge to get the Duramax was (1) lack of inventory of the Ford at the time and (2) the employee discount plus factory incentives I got on the Chevy. I put very few miles on my truck. So, the 100K warranty is pretty much worthless. I will get the 5 year benefit and any extra emissions equipment coverage provided to California owners.

It depends on how much you want a Duramax. If I had your towing requirements, I'd probably opt for the gasser. You trade off the cost of Chevy diesel package for more features/options in the GMC. That said, I have an LT Duramax with leather (not buckets, though) and like it very much. Either way, you seem to be getting a great price and won't lose whichever way you choose to go.

I'm assuming you have the standard bed length? Depending on the nose of your fifth wheel and the position of your kingpin (how forward it is relative to the front of the overhang), you may have some flexibility to try different configurations of your Andersen hitch to move your pin weight more forward in the truck bed. For example, to bring your pin weight forward, you can either install the hitch in reverse (bringing the ball closer to the cab) or install the kingpin adapter in reverse (moving the red receiver cup back toward the trailer) or both. This all depends on how much clearance you have between the truck cab and the trailer overhang. Obviously, you can't move it too far forward if it causes issues with cab clearance. I don't know how your Curt receiver was installed. But, the OEM gooseneck package places the gooseneck receiver slightly rear of the axle. The Andersen hitch's offsets add up to 9" to that and may be putting your pin weight too far back in the bed. FWIW, I have a standard bed with the OEM gooseneck/5th wheel pucks and the Andersen Ultimate Hitch installed as far back as possible. I don't experience the chucking you describe. But, my truck is a 3500 and my trailer is only 28'. So, that might explain the difference.

I have the leather package on my LT and I love it and I believe it automatically includes the seat storage cubbies in the back with the fold down cup holder arm rest (in case you don't get that with your other options). I happen to like the fold down center jump seat. I store my 5th wheel up against a driver side block wall. So, I have to slide over and exit through the passenger door occasionally. A center console would make that a real PITA. Also, there's an option (I forget what it's called) that gives you an AUTO option in addition to 4hi, 4lo and 2hi. It came on my truck and I think it only added around $200 to the price. Residing in So Calif, I haven't had the occasion to use it yet. But, it seems like it might come in handy if you're in mixed weather conditions.