Everything posted by Njmurvin
My Z71 package came with all weather floor mats. No joke there. Love them. And who doesn't love those red badges?
FYI ... if you use T/H, turn the truck off and restart it within ~4 hours, it will automatically start up in T/H mode. However, the same is not true for the exhaust brake. You must restart it every time you restart the truck if you want it active.
I always get the annoying water that's puked out the air intake scoops onto the hood, grille and bumper after washing my truck (I always go around the block after washing so I can wipe it clean before putting away). But, I've never really checked under the hood. I guess I will now ...
I'm doing nothing special now. But, when the truck was brand new, I did the 500 mile break-in by taking the freeway from Ventura County to Bakersfield to purchase my tow hitch. I did my best to keep the speed under 60 but that was nearly impossible for me (big rigs were passing me on inclines - embarrassing). So, I varied it between 55 and 65. Using only the lie-o-meter, I was averaging anywhere between 20 and 35mpg. As I recall, it's a moving average of the last 50 miles or so. Anyway, the point of this is that speed is the enemy of fuel economy on these trucks. Probably the best thing you can do to increase your mpg is to keep your speed down.
I also have the factory pucks. I went with the Andersen Ultimate Hitch. 40lbs so it's easy to get in and out. It can give you an extra 9" of clearance (depending on how you're able to configure the hitch and adapter) from the cab if you're concerned about hitting on sharp turns. My trailer has a pretty flat front (unlike Michael621 above) and has plenty of clearance on even the sharpest turns. Although it's rated at 24k lbs and 4500lbs pin weight, I probably wouldn't have chosen it for a trailer that heavy. Mine is half that and it works great for me.
So much to unpack here .... If you wait long enough, new truck prices and incentives will eventually come back to "normal". But, your used truck will likely be worth less as well. 10k-12k trailer is probably the tipping point between gas and diesel. Can you tow this with a gasser? Yes. If you tow in mountains, it will make a difference in power and fuel consumption. Since you like Fords, you might want to check out their gasser (Godzilla) with 10 speed transmission. In my area (SoCal), we couldn't find a dealership that would honor employee discounts when my brother was searching for a new truck (summer of 2021). I've read similar posts from other parts of the country. Hopefully, that will change over time if things return to "normal". I don't believe that GM has officially announced when the interiors will be updated/redesigned.
I have a 2020 Silverado 3500 CCSB 4x4 SRW and its payload rating is 3890 lbs. It's an LT trim with leather and factory towing pucks. The trucks you mention are probably heavier due to more features and options which would reduce the payload. Gas trucks have higher payloads due to their lighter drivetrains. With a 15K fifth wheel, you may want to consider a DRW.
Mine came with full weather proof Z71 floor mats. I don't know if those come with all Z71 packages but, for me, that's the best part. Not having driven a non-Rancho equipped truck, I don't know what the difference is. They seem to do an OK job with my fifth wheel.
If the trailer's "dry" pin weight is already over your rated pin weight capacity, then this may be too much trailer for your truck. Unlike your truck, my understanding is that a trailer's published ratings are not adjusted for optional equipment. So, it's likely that your pin weight is higher even before adding water, your cargo and other stuff to the trailer. My LT 3500 SRW max gooseneck pin weight is only 3180 lbs (3895 lbs payload). So, loaded, that trailer may be in dually territory. That said, I'd be curious to know how GM accounts for ~700 lbs difference between max payload and max pin weight. Come to think of it - a couple of people, an 85 lb labrador retriever and a Pullrite Superglide would come pretty close.
To be honest, the "other" truck I considered before purchasing my LT Duramax was a Ford equipped with the Godzilla gas engine and 10 speed trans. While it has more HP than my previous truck (04.5 Ram 3500), the torque was lower and it has to really rev to get to its max specs. My trailer (@12K lbs) is borderline for "needing" a diesel. What put me over the edge to get the Duramax was (1) lack of inventory of the Ford at the time and (2) the employee discount plus factory incentives I got on the Chevy. I put very few miles on my truck. So, the 100K warranty is pretty much worthless. I will get the 5 year benefit and any extra emissions equipment coverage provided to California owners.
It depends on how much you want a Duramax. If I had your towing requirements, I'd probably opt for the gasser. You trade off the cost of Chevy diesel package for more features/options in the GMC. That said, I have an LT Duramax with leather (not buckets, though) and like it very much. Either way, you seem to be getting a great price and won't lose whichever way you choose to go.
I'm assuming you have the standard bed length? Depending on the nose of your fifth wheel and the position of your kingpin (how forward it is relative to the front of the overhang), you may have some flexibility to try different configurations of your Andersen hitch to move your pin weight more forward in the truck bed. For example, to bring your pin weight forward, you can either install the hitch in reverse (bringing the ball closer to the cab) or install the kingpin adapter in reverse (moving the red receiver cup back toward the trailer) or both. This all depends on how much clearance you have between the truck cab and the trailer overhang. Obviously, you can't move it too far forward if it causes issues with cab clearance. I don't know how your Curt receiver was installed. But, the OEM gooseneck package places the gooseneck receiver slightly rear of the axle. The Andersen hitch's offsets add up to 9" to that and may be putting your pin weight too far back in the bed. FWIW, I have a standard bed with the OEM gooseneck/5th wheel pucks and the Andersen Ultimate Hitch installed as far back as possible. I don't experience the chucking you describe. But, my truck is a 3500 and my trailer is only 28'. So, that might explain the difference.
I have the leather package on my LT and I love it and I believe it automatically includes the seat storage cubbies in the back with the fold down cup holder arm rest (in case you don't get that with your other options). I happen to like the fold down center jump seat. I store my 5th wheel up against a driver side block wall. So, I have to slide over and exit through the passenger door occasionally. A center console would make that a real PITA. Also, there's an option (I forget what it's called) that gives you an AUTO option in addition to 4hi, 4lo and 2hi. It came on my truck and I think it only added around $200 to the price. Residing in So Calif, I haven't had the occasion to use it yet. But, it seems like it might come in handy if you're in mixed weather conditions.
My truck had 150 miles on it when I took delivery (was moved from another dealership). I had to drive about 300 miles r/t to a Camping World to get my Andersen hitch. Trying to keep the truck under 60mph on I5 was a real challenge. Another 50 miles or so driving around town before my first tow to Big Bear, CA. No problems at all pulling my 12K 5th wheel up the mountain. More importantly, the EB worked beautifully on the way down once I got the hang of using the brake to engage it.
This is snipped from the GM Employee Discount Rules and Guidelines ... and is consistent with what my brother ran into when trying to buy a truck off the lot from several dealerships. "Dealership participation is voluntary. To determine a specific dealership’s willingness to sell vehicles under the Program, the Participant or Sponsored Purchaser should contact the dealership directly. If a dealership is not willing to sell a vehicle through the Program, the Participant or Sponsored Purchaser may contact or visit another dealership."
My brother had his truck totaled in an accident about 6 weeks ago. We were trying to find him a new GM truck using the employee discount. He called several dealers in California and they pretty much laughed at him when he asked if they were honoring the employee discount. They told him they were getting as much as $10k over sticker for HD trucks. Now, this was for existing or incoming inventory - not a new order. That could be an entirely different story. Dealers have the discretion to accept employee discount deals or not. I didn't know until this experience whether that was across the board or if they could pick and choose depending on model. As stated, some models (like Corvette) are excluded entirely by GM. Just about a year ago, I had no trouble using the employee discount to purchase my truck right off the lot. He ended up finding a RAM 3500 at MSRP plus some dubious dealer-added equipment and felt lucky to get it.
I have noticed this as well with my truck. Stopping when rolling seems normal to me. But, sitting at a light, the truck feels like it wants to go. Maybe this isn't just an issue with the brakes. Could it be that the stall speed of the torque converter is set marginally low? That could explain some of this behavior.
I had the Extang Trifecta on my previous truck and loved it. It was so easy to remove that the few occasions I needed that extra 2ft I just removed the top entirely. If I had to do that frequently, it would definitely become an issue. I haven't purchased a topper for my new truck yet. But, in looking around I seem to recall seeing some that fold up at the cab. However, I think those have their own rail systems inside the truck rails. I've ruled those out because I need all the clearance I can get for my fifth wheel pinbox on hard turns.
I have the AUH with the OEM puck/gooseneck ball. As much as I like the AUH, I have also second-guessed my purchase thinking I might consider the goosebox if I had it to do over (mostly due to the clean bed when unhooked). However, the people I travel with have traditional 5th wheel hitches. In a pinch, if I need my trailer towed by a buddy's truck, I'd be screwed and have to find someone with a gooseneck ball. With the AUH, all I have to do is remove the king pin adapter (two bolts and loosen the set screws).
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