Everything posted by Njmurvin
I have a 2020 Silverado 3500 CCSB 4x4 SRW and its payload rating is 3890 lbs. It's an LT trim with leather and factory towing pucks. The trucks you mention are probably heavier due to more features and options which would reduce the payload. Gas trucks have higher payloads due to their lighter drivetrains. With a 15K fifth wheel, you may want to consider a DRW.
Mine came with full weather proof Z71 floor mats. I don't know if those come with all Z71 packages but, for me, that's the best part. Not having driven a non-Rancho equipped truck, I don't know what the difference is. They seem to do an OK job with my fifth wheel.
If the trailer's "dry" pin weight is already over your rated pin weight capacity, then this may be too much trailer for your truck. Unlike your truck, my understanding is that a trailer's published ratings are not adjusted for optional equipment. So, it's likely that your pin weight is higher even before adding water, your cargo and other stuff to the trailer. My LT 3500 SRW max gooseneck pin weight is only 3180 lbs (3895 lbs payload). So, loaded, that trailer may be in dually territory. That said, I'd be curious to know how GM accounts for ~700 lbs difference between max payload and max pin weight. Come to think of it - a couple of people, an 85 lb labrador retriever and a Pullrite Superglide would come pretty close.
To be honest, the "other" truck I considered before purchasing my LT Duramax was a Ford equipped with the Godzilla gas engine and 10 speed trans. While it has more HP than my previous truck (04.5 Ram 3500), the torque was lower and it has to really rev to get to its max specs. My trailer (@12K lbs) is borderline for "needing" a diesel. What put me over the edge to get the Duramax was (1) lack of inventory of the Ford at the time and (2) the employee discount plus factory incentives I got on the Chevy. I put very few miles on my truck. So, the 100K warranty is pretty much worthless. I will get the 5 year benefit and any extra emissions equipment coverage provided to California owners.
It depends on how much you want a Duramax. If I had your towing requirements, I'd probably opt for the gasser. You trade off the cost of Chevy diesel package for more features/options in the GMC. That said, I have an LT Duramax with leather (not buckets, though) and like it very much. Either way, you seem to be getting a great price and won't lose whichever way you choose to go.
I'm assuming you have the standard bed length? Depending on the nose of your fifth wheel and the position of your kingpin (how forward it is relative to the front of the overhang), you may have some flexibility to try different configurations of your Andersen hitch to move your pin weight more forward in the truck bed. For example, to bring your pin weight forward, you can either install the hitch in reverse (bringing the ball closer to the cab) or install the kingpin adapter in reverse (moving the red receiver cup back toward the trailer) or both. This all depends on how much clearance you have between the truck cab and the trailer overhang. Obviously, you can't move it too far forward if it causes issues with cab clearance. I don't know how your Curt receiver was installed. But, the OEM gooseneck package places the gooseneck receiver slightly rear of the axle. The Andersen hitch's offsets add up to 9" to that and may be putting your pin weight too far back in the bed. FWIW, I have a standard bed with the OEM gooseneck/5th wheel pucks and the Andersen Ultimate Hitch installed as far back as possible. I don't experience the chucking you describe. But, my truck is a 3500 and my trailer is only 28'. So, that might explain the difference.
I have the leather package on my LT and I love it and I believe it automatically includes the seat storage cubbies in the back with the fold down cup holder arm rest (in case you don't get that with your other options). I happen to like the fold down center jump seat. I store my 5th wheel up against a driver side block wall. So, I have to slide over and exit through the passenger door occasionally. A center console would make that a real PITA. Also, there's an option (I forget what it's called) that gives you an AUTO option in addition to 4hi, 4lo and 2hi. It came on my truck and I think it only added around $200 to the price. Residing in So Calif, I haven't had the occasion to use it yet. But, it seems like it might come in handy if you're in mixed weather conditions.
My truck had 150 miles on it when I took delivery (was moved from another dealership). I had to drive about 300 miles r/t to a Camping World to get my Andersen hitch. Trying to keep the truck under 60mph on I5 was a real challenge. Another 50 miles or so driving around town before my first tow to Big Bear, CA. No problems at all pulling my 12K 5th wheel up the mountain. More importantly, the EB worked beautifully on the way down once I got the hang of using the brake to engage it.
This is snipped from the GM Employee Discount Rules and Guidelines ... and is consistent with what my brother ran into when trying to buy a truck off the lot from several dealerships. "Dealership participation is voluntary. To determine a specific dealership’s willingness to sell vehicles under the Program, the Participant or Sponsored Purchaser should contact the dealership directly. If a dealership is not willing to sell a vehicle through the Program, the Participant or Sponsored Purchaser may contact or visit another dealership."
My brother had his truck totaled in an accident about 6 weeks ago. We were trying to find him a new GM truck using the employee discount. He called several dealers in California and they pretty much laughed at him when he asked if they were honoring the employee discount. They told him they were getting as much as $10k over sticker for HD trucks. Now, this was for existing or incoming inventory - not a new order. That could be an entirely different story. Dealers have the discretion to accept employee discount deals or not. I didn't know until this experience whether that was across the board or if they could pick and choose depending on model. As stated, some models (like Corvette) are excluded entirely by GM. Just about a year ago, I had no trouble using the employee discount to purchase my truck right off the lot. He ended up finding a RAM 3500 at MSRP plus some dubious dealer-added equipment and felt lucky to get it.
I have noticed this as well with my truck. Stopping when rolling seems normal to me. But, sitting at a light, the truck feels like it wants to go. Maybe this isn't just an issue with the brakes. Could it be that the stall speed of the torque converter is set marginally low? That could explain some of this behavior.
I had the Extang Trifecta on my previous truck and loved it. It was so easy to remove that the few occasions I needed that extra 2ft I just removed the top entirely. If I had to do that frequently, it would definitely become an issue. I haven't purchased a topper for my new truck yet. But, in looking around I seem to recall seeing some that fold up at the cab. However, I think those have their own rail systems inside the truck rails. I've ruled those out because I need all the clearance I can get for my fifth wheel pinbox on hard turns.
I have the AUH with the OEM puck/gooseneck ball. As much as I like the AUH, I have also second-guessed my purchase thinking I might consider the goosebox if I had it to do over (mostly due to the clean bed when unhooked). However, the people I travel with have traditional 5th wheel hitches. In a pinch, if I need my trailer towed by a buddy's truck, I'd be screwed and have to find someone with a gooseneck ball. With the AUH, all I have to do is remove the king pin adapter (two bolts and loosen the set screws).
I have the bench seat (had it on my previous truck too). It's nice for the occasional 6th passenger. The fold down console is big enough for me. One huge benefit FOR ME is that I can fold the console up and slide across the seat easily to enter/exit the passenger door. "Why?", you ask. I park my 5th wheel up against a block wall on my left and there isn't enough room to open the driver side door. So, I slide across the seat to the passenger door during my parking process. Works like a charm! I probably would not have thought of this had I not just parked the 5th wheel this morning.
I have a loaded 2020 Dmax 3500 LT (conv 2, leather, Z71, 5th wheel/gooseneck towing) that I bought last summer. It has everything I wanted except adaptive cruise (which none of these trucks has) and front/rear parking assist. I found it locally sitting on a lot and grabbed it with my employee discount for $54K +T&L + steps (so I could climb into the thing). Its primary use is towing my 12k fifth wheel and it pulls that down the road the same as the $80k models do. Fortunately for me, I came out of a 2004.5 Dodge Ram 3500 Laramie that I bought new. This truck has everything the older Laramie had and more.
There's a post regarding this problem on another forum. I don't know if it's OK to put a link to another forum. In short, there are aluminum heater hoses behind the lower glovebox. They need to be tied with a wire-tie. Several people on that forum with this exact problem fixed it this way. I haven't done it. I plan to point this out to the dealer when I take it in for my free oil change service.
Andersen Ultimate Hitch connected to a gooseball in the OEM puck hole. 40lbs light and drives like a dream (no clunks like my Superglide used to do). Adds clearance from the cab as well depending on how you configure it.
All I care about is that it's way nicer than my 2004 Ram was. I love that it has a volume knob and knobs for the climate control. I saw one guy on YT that threw a fit over the location and operation of the Tow/Haul button. My old truck had it on the end of the shifter. I don't really mind the new location and love that it stays on persistently with restarts for a while so you don't have to keep turning it on after short stops.
Njmurvin replied to Mardo's topic in 6.6L Duramax Diesel & Allison Powertrain (L5P/MGM)Third this^^^^ My truck has the OEM pucks. It also came with the Curt hitch package. I just plug the goose ball in the hole in the bed and drop the 40lb hitch over it and cinch it down. Actually, I have a padded mat (made from a Home Depot rubber mat) that I put under the hitch to help protect the bed. It tows beautifully and there's plenty of clearance from the cab on tight turns.,
I also have the Andersen Ultimate Hitch. Do you have the OEM towing package with the pucks in your truck bed? You can measure your 5th wheel pinbox length and compare against measurements from the center of the gooseball position to your tailgate and side rails of your bed to determine if the AUH can be installed to get the full added 9" of cab clearance. The process is described in the installation manual for the hitch which you can download from their website. In my case, my pinbox (Airborne) clears both the tailgate and side rails allowing me to enjoy the full extra 9" of clearance to the cab that the Andersen offers. Due to the longer GM bed, the extra 2" setback by the factory and the 9" added by the Andersen setup, my trailer connected with the fixed hitch clears my cab by more than it did with the Pullrite Superglide on my Ram 3500 short bed. In addition, chances are that your trailer is new(er) and has the front corners carved out for added cab clearance. I would be very surprised if you will need a slider hitch.
Last weekend, my truck received an over the air update. If it told me what the purpose of the update was, I must have missed it. It took about 15 minutes to complete. Does anyone know what the update is supposed to fix?
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