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About Stevenmorris.us

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  1. Yep, they have to prove the lift caused the failure. Anyways you see a lifted Chevy damn well on all dealer lots with lifts installed from Factory. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I agree, weight is not my friend. That’s why I am doing bigger turbo extra fuel, E85 etc to help all I can. Corner bolts help a lot and doing 625aprs will help, but it’s also how you ramp boost in etc. I learned a lot of the small things during my other builds so trying to pass that along on this one. Truthfully if it’s close or past 900hp I will be happy. I DD this a lot so I am not trying to break it all the time. Pretty much a strong 600-650hp DD and turn up when I want. Yea when people ask all those it’s more of old way of thinking. It is better for sure, but 1000hp now is very easy where in past it wasn’t. I mean hell I had a LSA twin turbo motor stock cubs break 1400hp. Lifted the heads a lot during the learning curve with that one but it worked out lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Same size valves, only going for 1k which isn’t to hard. No to o-Ringing head at this time but I might do it still. Yes low side and high side both being replaced. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Stock with MSL gasket and doing ARP head studs with corner bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Lol I won’t have much to do on them besides drop off and pick up. I am definitely going to be more budget friendly on this build, it really is t much to get them to 1k just do some good parts and boost. It is busy at work so this will be a slow build till first part of next year, I am get gathering all the parts to be ready for it right now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Yea definitely need the drive shaft. Not sure on I take yet might just keep stock, I would think it can still make the goals with stock one since going boosted. BTR is a great company, I have used them a lot on other builds. Only real reason for the TSP is there close to me and they have the drop in rods and pistons so that’s nice to save there vs machine shop. I do have a nitrous kit as well I guess if I want to go all out but don’t think it will use it. Meth is on the table as an item I might get. Trying to stay in budget but do the best bang for your buck if you will. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Already have drilled and slotted Rotors with ceramic pads, looking at doing a big brake kit but that is still up in air on brand etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I am about to be in the process of building mine so I am wondering how if you have a choice and budget to build these motors what would you go with? Budget is 15K for everything TRANS INCLUDED, goal is 900-1000hp. This is what I have so far 1. On3performance turbo kit 76mm BMF turbo 2. LT4 fuel pump 3. LT4 injectors 4. Low pressure injectors 5. Low pressure fuel pump 6. Flex fuel kit 7. TSP drop in rods and pistons 8. TSP stage 4 cam( maybe smaller) 9. TSP CNC L83 heads and 660 spring kit 10. TSP DOD delete with head studs and corner bolts, lifters, push rods. 11. Yank converter 1200hp rated or circle D 12. Timing chain not sure brand That’s about all I can think of so far besides of course the small miscellaneous stuff. Also this is going in a 2015 Silverado 1500 Crew cab 4x4 want a nice sleeper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I am if you might have it, I have had a few say they think they have the cross member, if you have the section you cut off as well that would help a lot to. Thank you again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Mine are the upper cast steel as well, spindles I might not need. Some drop kits come with them. What would you like for these shipped I know shipping is probably not going to be my friend on these. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Looking for the factory spindles, and the cross member brace that is removed and replaced when you lift your truck. Needing them to return my truck back to stock and I do not have mine. Oh also no matter the lift 4 or 6” I believe you have to cut off one or both of your side sections that the brace bolts too, I am needing that as well. I have called a few local shops but no luck yet. Here are some pictures to help understand what parts I am talking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I would suggest always having the lock up, non-Lock up has benefits but lock up is best way. If your having to install a converter you should buy a better one TCI/Circle D etc. Just food for thought when a converter is not locked they build more heat then locked ( if the locked converter is working good) I can’t speak from a my truck on no-lockup vs lock up but I can on a few race/street cars and it’s a HUGE difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Do you still have this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. What year range does this fit into? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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