eckseleven

Tell me more about this LED. What did you do to set up the flashing? I don't recall mine having an LED though. This is my set up:

"Do the DEF delete"? Could you elaborate? I wasn't aware of that being possible.

I don't think it will hurt anything to force a regen, but if you aren't seeing the "continue driving" message often you don't have anything to worry about.

I have a Banks iDash that shows what gear I'm in. I was not referring to the gear selector being in 'L' like the person above said. I always just leave it in 'D'.

The thing with the DEF gauge is that you have to think about it like the "miles to empty" that we have with fuel. It is purely an estimate and that estimate will change based on usage. If your vehicle usage changes suddenly, it takes time for the gauge to reflect that. For me it hasn't been a concern so far. When I'm towing I'l just note what it predicts I have left and pack a jug accordingly. You start to get a feel for it after a while.

Couldn't find any other post about the recent update from Banks about LM2 Derringer support. Looks like they are back at development and committed to finishing it early Summer. Their last official update was way back in 2019 I believe. https://www.facebook.com/bankspower/videos/469411128163254/ Rumors suggest gains on max setting could be 60 HP / 110 LB/FT.

Never plugged mine in. Stretches of below 0F are common this time of year and I've never had an issue starting.

There are two types of regen - passive and active. Passive occurs all the time but works best when exhaust temperatures are high. Active regen is where fuel is used outside of the normal combustion process to burn off soot in the DPF. Active regens must finish within a certain number of start/stop cycles or you'll get a warning on the dash. Towing will work the engine enough where passive regen will do a good job and lengthen the time between active regens. I see 500 - 600 miles between active regens when towing. When not towing an active regen can happen in as short as just 150 miles. I use a Banks iDash to monitor this stuff.

I forgot to add that just putting it in D and hoping on the highway, the transmission tends to stay in 9th gear at 65-70 MPH for me with the trailer mentioned. The diesel has massive torque at low RPM. It isn't a gasser, you won't hurt it making it work at 1400 RPM.

In my opinion, don't over think things with the gear limits. I don't remember the weight of my travel trailer, something like 3500-3750. I will use tow/haul mode and just put it in drive. Even going down hill you shouldn't down shift it. The 3.0 Duramax is equipped with an exhaust brake that works automatically based on brake pedal application. Leave it in drive and just gently apply brakes when descending hills. The transmission will automatically downshift and the exhaust brake will engage and you can release the brake pedal. My biggest advice is keeping an eye on DEF. The gauge is a range estimate (much like "miles to empty" for fuel) so it will move drastically if vehicle usage changes. The 3.0 will use a lot more DEF when you work it hard, so it is good to be prepared. Once you get familiar with what your usage is like when towing, you'll know if you should bring a jug with you.

The Banks PedalMonster isn't a tuner, it is a throttle booster. I have one and like it. It removes the delay in the throttle so it feels more like a cable operated throttle. There are numerous levels you can set it to to dial it in to your liking. It does nothing for performance obviously. It is just for improving throttle response. The Banks Derringer is their piggyback tuner, but it hasn't been released yet. I've seen estimated gains directly from Banks indicating they expect to see 60+ HP and 110+ lb/ft increase at the maximum setting. I'll be first in line when they are available!

Like most intakes, it's probably more about the sound, unless there are tuning options for you. To me, the noise is worth it in most cases, especially when a turbo is involved.

It's still a lifted truck though. Lower only the rear and the front is still the factory "lift". Overall it is still higher than the other trims in the line up, but now level. Nothing wrong with that and a lot less effort and money to achieve that look vs. lifting the front. Not sure why more don't do this, especially when these trucks are pavement princesses in most cases. To each their own, like you said though.

What's the problem? Serious question.

Yeah I'm not sure about that part. Do you have high idle warm up enabled? I haven't payed attention to the color of the exhaust but it does smell kind of sweet during that phase.

Ok. I'll admit that I haven't stood outside mine and remote started it with it that cold, but I don't see why they would have designed the glow plugs to not operate when remote starting. Pretty sure I read somewhere they are used regardless. When I was inside mine and started it when it was about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, it very briefly gave the message about startup being delayed, maybe a second or two. If you get any more cold days, hop in a start it to see if it behaves any differently.

How low below freezing? It needs to be quite cold before they come on.

It will use glow plugs when remote starting if conditions require them.

Nice. Tempted to tackle this with my CarbonPro AT4 grill. Color matched looks better in my opinion.

Does it seem like you can remove/add that plug with the intake installed?

Awesome. Do you happen to know where in the harness to tap into?

Anyone know if one of those mirrortaps exists for getting power? Have one for my Vette with a blend mount and it was an easy, clean install.

There are quite a few videos in the "3.0 LM2 Duramax Owners" Facebook group. I wish that wasn't the more popular place to interact with people these days....

Excited to hear feedback and videos of the s&b. I'd like to get one but will wait until spring since I'm not installing it in the cold haha.

My 3.0 showed this message this morning at -5F. I figured it was related to the high idle setting I enabled in the settings.