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Mine regularly hits 220+ on long road trips. No towing, no heavy loads, but usually outside air temp of 85+. This summer saw 110 outside temps get fluid to 240. Around town, short trips, I see 170-185. Dealer swaped fluid for studder problem.

PIAA Silicon - last long, wipe good, sun and freeze resistant

This is the MSD size that fit my old 2014 5.3L engine: # 33829 I am running Taylor wires now on my Silverado which I like a lot. Better than MSD. part number is: # 79613 I personally don't like the factory wires or plugs. I find both fail way too soon. Replaced every set on over 5 GM trucks before the warrantee ran out usually. Always been happy with the results, and always found the factory sets in bad shape in as little as 40k miles. Would never buy them. I have heard that too low a resistance can lead to misfires, but have not had that issue with the Taylors.

Near Kettle Falls. What is a Lavender Festival? Does it require four wheel drive, or is it more like October Fest? It was 100+ at times in eastern WA, so Sequim, even at a Lavender party, sounds nice.

Given the BCM and how it can react to circuits in the truck being taped into and changing current/load, I'd recommend running a new circuit (wire) to the fuse panel. Auto part stores sell a "tap" that fits into an existing fuse slot and creates two seperate circuits. Use a multi meter to find one that is on when you want it to be (all the time, or with acc, or in run). Its easy to tuck the wire in the headliner and the A pillar.

This is what I have had so far on my 2018 LTZ with Fox Coilovers that level the truck: Wheels: Fuel Sledge 18x9 +1 (Thread Size: M14 x 1.5, 6x5.5(139.7) Bolt Pattern) Tires: Attempt (rub in reverse and full lock): 295/70r18 Nitto Ridge (34.3 x 11.6) First set (no rub): 275/70 (33.2 x 10.8) Nitto Ridge Second set: 295/65 (33.1x11.6) Goodyear DuraTrac (@43k)

Backroads are much more fun! truck handled a trip across Washington like a champ.

How many miles? I did my 2018 with 50k and I saw the same. Very dirty fluid out. Was surprised. Plan to change again at 60k just to see.

Maybe helpful. https://www.xda-developers.com/how-to-disable-bluetooth-automatic-playback-on-any-android-phone/

When it happens to me, if you disconnect the negative battery terminal and reconnect, it seems to fix it. At least for me. I am cleaning up and improving grounds when I get the free time.

Did it bounce a little better after that?

Think of the "wireless" in your truck like your wireless at home. You don't have to have (pay) an internet provider to make your wireless routers work. Its just a local network until you pay for service to connect you to the internet. So your truck has a wireless router in it. You can connect devices to it. They can talk to each other and to the truck's network (like entertainment). Then, if you want the truck to connect to the Internet, you pay OnStar to connect. Just like an ISP at home. Wireless CarPlay and Wireless Android Auto require a WiFi signal to work. Bluetooth is too limited, but still serves as the signal for phone.

I learned three things working on my 2018 Silverado LTZ with 53k miles: 1) when replacing the Tailgate Assist spring, you do it from inside the tail light, not the tailgate side. I took off my tailgate (not that hard, but risks scratches), and found a bushing to replace, but not the spring. Turns out if I had checked the web better, I would have seen that by removing the tail light, the Assist spring is mounted in there for easy replacement. New one works much better. 2) there was a clunk in my front end that for some reason my brain told me was the sway bar links (because it was on my Jeep, so...). It wasn't, but they were rusty and corroded. Here in the NW, we only have water on the roads, so I imagine in some necks of the woods, these get much worse, much faster. Easy replacement, so I'll call it preventative. 3) when it is hotter that normal, I need to watch out if I try to work on the truck in bare feet. Also applies to touching body panels.

I have a BMW too. Well...my wife does. Its white. It a pain in the ass to work on. They hide the battery and put the oil filter in a stupid place. Express down on all windows. Express up on driver.

Start with the easy/cheap stuff: check for vacuum leaks, check your plugs and wires, check your coils. If you had your plugs replaced, maybe a wire (or several) were damaged when removed. The factory wires get really fragile in old age. Try new ones. Replace your MAP sensor. They are not too expensive, and can certainly fail with age. If all else fails, many good mechanics will have lower diagnostic prices than the dealer, so double check. Hope that helps. Good luck.

7.5x11_Truck_Capacities.pdf (cedar-grove.com)

Done right, I believe a brake flush is a brake flush. Meaning, you replace the fluid in the reservoir with new fluid, you push or pull that new fluid through the lines, ABS manifold, and calipers; until all you see is new fluid (in color or clarity) coming out the bleeder. I suppose a shortcut a shop might take would be to just replace the fluid in the reservoir with new and call it quits. Like rav3 points out, this is good for maintenance, but can't replace flushing the whole system. Unlike most fluids in the truck, the brake fluid doesn't really circulate. The stuff in the reservoir stays there, the stuff in the caliper stays there. For me, this might now be a yearly task.

Decided to flush my brake system fluid. I have 51,000 miles on the truck, and have owned it for 3 years. Fluid in the reservoir looked fine and was between min and max mark. I was surprised at how dirty the fluid coming out of the calipers and lines was compared to the reservoir was. I can't say I feel a braking difference after, but I will definitely change the fluid more often next time. What came out from right rear: What fluid from the reservoir looked like:

I like BlackBear Performance. I also have used a local dyno shop. Not sure what the status of the 2020's are for tuning.

$150 part, that relies on grease for wear protection. Fairly simple bolt on job. 2-3hrs in the driveway. I guess for me its less a question of how many miles I can squeeze out of them, and more a question of how often should they be replaced as part of preventative maintenance. I've never had one fail before 50k (lucky me maybe, but probably strong odds). But I'll never drive them past 100k because it just seems like taking a risk you don't really need to at that cost. And I bet new bearings get better gas mileage. If you keep having hubs fail before 100k, I'd be looking for the cause other than bad luck.

I got the 2021 update. No big UI changes that I can tell. It now finds the new Chick-fil-a in my neighborhood. And a Subway in Detroit according to the install directions I like the built in Nav because on long road trips, I am not organized enough, or have enough foresight, to remember to download the right set of maps for when I am not in cell range (often enough). I also like it for the quick direction, when I don't want to get my phone out of my pocket and plug into the USB. Maybe with wireless Android Auto, I will be 100% phone maps, but for now, I use both.

I have to have my oil changed every 10k (min) at the Chevy dealer, because they gave me a lifetime powertrain warranty that stipulates that. The dealer offers/uses Amsoil. So maybe GM doesn't approve, or Amsoil doesn't license; but to me, the only things that matter are: 1) I like Amsoil based on research; and 2) my lifetime warranty provider approves it. GM warrantee runs out quick, and before it matters 95% of the time. Good business calculation on their part, but I also think they build high mileage capable trucks. Stick to the oil, spec, or marketing you prefer. That way, the blame won't have to travel far if needed

The three factory cats, plus the factory iron manifold I think are VERY effective and reducing the V8 sound. Muffler/flapper/resonator delete is loud for sure, but I agree with JoBlarc7 that headers with race cats, or no cats, really changes the V8 tone. I run with long tube headers and two racing cats, plus a Magnaflow and factory resonator, but removed the flapper. The magnaflow really changed tune when I swapped to headers. It is really "raspy/growly" at cold start, settles into a low growl idle (louder than stock, but not attention grabbing), but gets loud on hard throttle. Still not a deep and rumbly as my son's 1970 Camaro, but a good improvement. Tempted to try a Borla/Flowmaster muffler as well to see if I can get a deeper growl, but still contain the volume at idle and light throttle. My only issue with headers is I feel like they make it sound "tinnier". Maybe that the stainless vs the older steel tubes? Or maybe that's just the newer engines?

JimmyT - do you know what is making that white stipe on your belt? Also seems like it is "jumping" on the crankshaft pully. If you remove the belt you can hand check the pullies to see if any wobble, or are loose. You can also replace the belt tensioner for not too much cost. They are hit and miss how long they last. Some go quick, some are lifetime. To try an narrow it down, people usually use a stethoscope (like doctors have). They sell at most parts stores. it generally helps figure out which part of the pully system is the source of the sound. 2021SierraX31 - my "grandfather clock" tick came from my throttle body (6.2L 2018). Replaced and the sound is gone.

The strut looks like it is mounted too far out. Either that, or that is the wrong control arm. Here is a picture of full droop (arm touching droop stops) of my factory arms with 2" level Fox coilovers. There is lots of space between arm and coils. I am not sure how adding 1-1.5" more spacer would create the contact you are seeing.