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Pilot12

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Pilot12 Enthusiast

Pilot12

Posted
Posted

I just bought a 2009 Chevy 1500, 5.3 flexifuel, 4x4 W/T, Reg Cab, 6.5' Bed truck with 265/70 17" wheels to use in the mountains and woods for hunting, very rugged roads and trails. I immediately ordered tire chains for it then read the manual and found the little paragraph saying don't use chains. I called the dealer and the tire/ wheel guy said to go ahead and use them for emergencies. (I'm talking when I'm WAY back in there and the weather changes and I have to get out, or the four wheel drive fails or I have another problem, not fast or far) He suggested maybe I let them do a leveling kit on it.

 

I'd been considering the leveling kit already after reading all you guys wrote: 2" or less shouldn't cause handling problems or ball joint wear. I should get better body clearance as well as more room in the wheel well for chains. I know I'll be out of luck on the warranty if I get chain damage.

Last truck ('88 K1500) lasted 22 years w/ 87000 miles, about half of which were off road and it showed so it was doomed to the cash for clunkers program. Only used chains about 3 times, but I NEEDED them. I plan on USING and keeping this truck. I need it to be tough and reliable and as trouble free as possible.

 

My questions, after a couple hours reading here, are:

 

1. Which is the best/ toughest leveling kit? Dealer installs Daystar.

 

2. What's a good total price, installed w/ alignment? Dealer wants $500, gotta be high.

 

3. Anyone used chains on a similar pickup/ tire combo? How'd it work? I need heavy duty, cables won't cut it.

 

4. I plan on removing the front air dam before I rip it off on a log like I did my '88 1500. No problem there, other than maybe a little extra gas, right?

 

5. Any other suggestions/ problems with my plan?

 

6. The '88 four wheel drive actuator failed 4 or 5 times. What's the consensus on the new acuators? Do I need to carry a spare like I did in the old truck?

 

Good forum you all have here! Thanks for any input.

 

Kelly

 

mfennema Enthusiast

mfennema

Posted
Posted

My suggestions:

 

1. I have the Rough Country 2" kit which has the 3 separate spacers so you can pick the amount of level you want.

2. Cost was about 70 bucks plus 50 for the alignment and about 2 hours of my time. Easy as pie.

3. No help here

4. I removed mine with no difference in gas mileage.

5. I see no problems personally.

6. Haven't had a problem personally.

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

I preferred the Bilstein adjustable ride height shocks for my solution. Bilstein P/N BE5-E376-H0

http://www.bilsteinus.com/leveling/index.php

 

Toss the silly car tires they put on these trucks. First rock or root you roll over you'll be changing a flat. Load range E (10 ply rated) or D (8 ply rated) is what I put on my trucks. I am about to do this to my 08 1500.

 

By the way, I think the engineers that came up with electric shift transfer cases were morons. When the chips are down, you want that transfer case to shift into 4wd. I had it not work once when I was stuck in my 99.

brims Senior Enthusiast

brims

Posted
Posted

The new Rough Country kit is 1 piece and plastic.

 

Pretty much all of those strut extention kits are the same as far as durability that I can see.

 

$500 seems a little high to me. If you can, go somewhere that has lifetime alignments, save you some money in the long run unless of course you align it once and never again.

s_n_a_f_u Enthusiast

s_n_a_f_u

Posted
Posted

i paid 400 canadian for my lvl Kit revtek is the brand and the only one that the dealer would still give me all the warranty that's the only reason they installed it

i also put some cooper discovery stt's on and i'm very pleased havnt needed 4 wheel drive yet cause of the locker there 265's so as to not mess with fuel economy to much.

i'v taken mine fishing and ther are some nice holes around here that had i not had the tires and the lvl kit and the airdam removed i would be needing a new bumper lol.

the onlything i did not like was the revtek made my ride a bit rougher roughly matches my 95 now for comfort

Pilot12 Enthusiast

Pilot12

Posted
  • Author
Posted
By the way, I think the engineers that came up with electric shift transfer cases were morons. When the chips are down, you want that transfer case to shift into 4wd. I had it not work once when I was stuck in my 99.

 

 

Both trucks ('88 and '09) have on the floor transfer cases. But that handle, although manually shifting the transfer case, sends an electrical signal (just like the button)to the actuator to engage the front differential. The old style was sensitive to cold weather and had a tendency to fail and allow the front end to disengage at the worst possible time and place. The new ones are more reliable in the cold, but have a plastic housing on the outside near the low point of the front end, leaving me to wonder about how many get banged on rocks....If the actuator fails, you still can get 2 wheel low because of the manual transfer case.

 

If it were up to me, we'd still have an option for manual hubs.

AgDoctor Senior Enthusiast

AgDoctor

Posted
Posted

i had the revtek, and that damn thing rode like a tank, i ditched it for the rough country. i have the cooper discoverer stt but in a 275 load range C. the factory p metric tires are crap offroad. i didnt want the stiffness of the D or especially E ranges, however they are stronger. but i feel like a C range would suffice for most offroaders, as interco has and still does make bias ply swampers and people use them with no problems. as for the air dam, i left it in the first mud hole that i backed out of. my ball joints bit the dust at 50,000 miles, but i think that was the revtek lift. that lift caused my suspension to top out on hard jolts. that might have had something to do with the aluminum block engine. as for tire chains, it doesnt snow much in south GA, but i read 4wheel and offroad, and they dont run chains on their offroad rigs, so i would think that an aggressive set of tires like the pro comp exteme mud terrains would be a good choice.

2COR517 Enthusiast

2COR517

Posted
Posted

Plan sounds pretty good to me. The front axle actuators are very reliable to my knowledge. I have run chains on the back of my 97 when plowing. Never tried/needed the front, I have over a ton of sand on when plowing.

 

I would consider a switchable or true locker in the rear for what you are talking about doing.

Pilot12 Enthusiast

Pilot12

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I preferred the Bilstein adjustable ride height shocks for my solution. Bilstein P/N BE5-E376-H0

 

Toss the silly car tires they put on these trucks. First rock or root you roll over you'll be changing a flat. Load range E (10 ply rated) or D (8 ply rated) is what I put on my trucks. I am about to do this to my 08 1500.

 

How's the ride and handing compare to the original equipment? You didn't replace the rear shocks with Bilsteins, I take it?

 

I got Goodyear Wrangler ATs with mine....not my first choice, but good enough I don't want to spend another $900 on BF Goodriches right away. I'll see if I can get at least one season on these.

Pilot12 Enthusiast

Pilot12

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I would consider a switchable or true locker in the rear for what you are talking about doing.

 

The heavy duty lockable I got isn't considered a "true" locker? Is that because it's automatic?

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted
I preferred the Bilstein adjustable ride height shocks for my solution. Bilstein P/N BE5-E376-H0

 

Toss the silly car tires they put on these trucks. First rock or root you roll over you'll be changing a flat. Load range E (10 ply rated) or D (8 ply rated) is what I put on my trucks. I am about to do this to my 08 1500.

 

How's the ride and handing compare to the original equipment? You didn't replace the rear shocks with Bilsteins, I take it?

 

I got Goodyear Wrangler ATs with mine....not my first choice, but good enough I don't want to spend another $900 on BF Goodriches right away. I'll see if I can get at least one season on these.

 

 

Mine has the Wanger AT/S tires 265-70/17. I'm just going back and forth to work on them now. Come hunting season, they get replaced. They're stinkin "P" rated car tires, not even LT (light truck) tires and they are the optional tire for "off-road". :D:D

2COR517 Enthusiast

2COR517

Posted
Posted

I'll admit I'm a bit confused by the GM "lockers" Gov-Lock, G-80, Eaton, blah blah blah, I don't know. Sounds to me like you need a Detroit Locker, or ARB.

 

Curious why you didn't get a 3/4 ton? Really wanted the short bed?

Pilot12 Enthusiast

Pilot12

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Curious why you didn't get a 3/4 ton? Really wanted the short bed?

 

Yeah, wanted to stay with short wheel base and spend as little as possible. Also, my dad has a 3/4 ton ford and it rides like a tank, even with a 500# camper on it. I want a smoother ride over all those rocks.

2COR517 Enthusiast

2COR517

Posted
Posted
Curious why you didn't get a 3/4 ton? Really wanted the short bed?

 

Yeah, wanted to stay with short wheel base and spend as little as possible. Also, my dad has a 3/4 ton ford and it rides like a tank, even with a 500# camper on it. I want a smoother ride over all those rocks.

 

 

It's a "superduty" with 3000 lb springs on EACH SIDE. I can't imagine driving one of those stupid things.

Pilot12 Enthusiast

Pilot12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

Mine has the Wanger AT/S tires 265-70/17. I'm just going back and forth to work on them now. Come hunting season, they get replaced. They're stinkin "P" rated car tires, not even LT (light truck) tires and they are the optional tire for "off-road". /quote]

 

 

Sh!T! yer right! I didn't even notice that.....Everytime I turn around the deal I thought wasn't bad gets worse! I can't take those tires into the woods. Never crossed my mind they put "P" rated tires on a 4x4.

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