2007 Nbs Stereo Upgrade Bose With Nav Ltz Sub Question

[Dannytexas]

I know some topics have been beaten like a dead horse.

I have searched the forums and have come up with various configurations to my question.

Basically here is what I want.

 

I have a 2007 NBS Crew Cab LTZ with Nav and Bose. Like to everyone else the bass is weak.

What is the simpliest (not cheapest) way to add a single 10" sub, amp and tie it into my factory nav HU for increased bass?

I see subthump boxes are a great choice so I think I'm good there. What amp and single sub speaker combo will work really good and be the easist to install?

Do I need the AOEM-GM1416 to tie into the factory HU and bose amp? Do I have to hunt down a remote turn on wire with this GM1416 adapter or does it include that feature?

 

Also I am really picky about engine whine from stereo. I installed a loc-pic Ipod/XM adapter and a Parrot blue tooth but had bad engine whine through speakers. I think it was the bluetooth actually but it killed me so I removed them both.

 

Will this sub-amp combo with adapter add any whine noise?

Is bass controlled via HU and amp to get it where it blends into the factory door speakers? Does the bose amp and bose sub in the console still work when you add the other sub and amp?

I know these have all been answered in various post but compiling it together is confusing.

I just want clear direction as to what I will need to make a nice system based on the above.

i.e.

Amp install kit 4 gauge

Adapter AOEM-GM1416

Fosgate (or whatever) amp for single sub

subthump box single 10" downfire

Kicker (or whatever dual voice, single voice etc...what ohms etc???

 

Thank you in advance for helping me with this.

I have the outside of my truck just how I want it and just need to finalize the inside with a little better bass and sound.

Cheers

Danny

[08chev]

the cheapest way to tie into the factory system is to use a line out converter like a PAC audio SNI-35 and tap directly inbetween the factory sub and the amp. this way your factory woofer and aftermarket get the same signal. as far as engine noise, it usually isn't an issue with woofers because your low pass crossover filters high frequencies anyway, you just need to make sure you have a solid ground for your amp. as equipement goes you have 100's of sub/amp options, and everyone has a favorite. i've been selling JL Audio (along with others) for 6 years and have found there sound quality and durability second to none. you would be supprized what you can get out of a single 10w1v2 in the right enclosure. when it come to dual/single voice coil along with your impedance (ohms) the only thing that matters is that your subs match you amps capabilities. if you get a single 4ohm woofer (very common) get a bridgable 2 ch. amp. if you get a dual 4 ohm woofer you would wire it for 2ohm and get a mono block amp. most mono amps make peak power at 2 ohm, and 2 channel amps work best at 4ohm bridged... hope some of this helps...

[Dannytexas]

Excellent information, thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. Does the PAC SNI-35 do the same thing as the AOEM-1416 but with speaker level splicing between the bose sub and my new amp? It seems if the AOEM-1416 is plug and play and I don't have to splice any wires it would be the way to go albeit for a few more dollars then the SNI-35. Does it still attach between the bose factory woofer and new amp or does it go up behind the head unit (which there is not much room behind the nav unit? Plus the AOEM -1416 seems to have a remote turn on lead I can tie the new amp to easier then hunting down a switched power source.

I like your input on the JL Audio woofer, I'll go with that in a single configuration with a small amp to drive it. The box I want from subthump says it has .95 cf of airspace for a single. Would that be ideal for the speaker you mentioned 10W1v2?

Thansk Bro.

Danny

 

the cheapest way to tie into the factory system is to use a line out converter like a PAC audio SNI-35 and tap directly inbetween the factory sub and the amp. this way your factory woofer and aftermarket get the same signal. as far as engine noise, it usually isn't an issue with woofers because your low pass crossover filters high frequencies anyway, you just need to make sure you have a solid ground for your amp. as equipement goes you have 100's of sub/amp options, and everyone has a favorite. i've been selling JL Audio (along with others) for 6 years and have found there sound quality and durability second to none. you would be supprized what you can get out of a single 10w1v2 in the right enclosure. when it come to dual/single voice coil along with your impedance (ohms) the only thing that matters is that your subs match you amps capabilities. if you get a single 4ohm woofer (very common) get a bridgable 2 ch. amp. if you get a dual 4 ohm woofer you would wire it for 2ohm and get a mono block amp. most mono amps make peak power at 2 ohm, and 2 channel amps work best at 4ohm bridged... hope some of this helps...

[08chev]

that 1416 will be easier/quicker for you to install for the extra money. with the piece i mentioned you will have to find a switched power source. .95 cu ft is plenty big, but will work fine for that woofer, do you have an amp picked out???

[alaska511]

Yep, I did it as mentioned above. I added an Alpine 450 watt mono amp and an RE 10 inch sub under the passenger rear seat. I disabled the POS Bose sub in the center console.

[socaliguy81]

Yep, I did it as mentioned above. I added an Alpine 450 watt mono amp and an RE 10 inch sub under the passenger rear seat. I disabled the POS Bose sub in the center console.

 

 

Actually, the sub up front helps tremendously with tying the front speakers to the aftermarket subs. Unless you ahve the bass turned up in the EQ settings, the factory sub should work just fine and do wonders for the front stage sound Q. You don't have to take my word for it, but I am a 2-time IASCA winner in Sound Q if it means anything.