Jump to content

How Do You Install Chrome Top Mirror Caps


Recommended Posts

Posted

I just bought some of the putco chrome mirror cap replacements for my 09 GMC these donot stick on with tape and came with no instructions can someone help with this they said to use a screw driver and pry the top loose from the tabs but the plastic tends to look like crap so I jst thought I would ask if anyone has found a better way to do this.

 

Thanks

Posted

If these caps are like the factory caps, then yes, you will need to use a screwdriver to pry the cover off. From what I remember, there should be three tabs that hold the caps in place. I was impatient and broke these tabs when I removed my mirror caps. It really didn't bother me because I was never going to put the black caps back on again.

 

If you're never going to use the original caps again, then I would just pry them off and not worry about the tabs.

Posted

NO SCREWDRIVER! You will mark up things. Just go to the inside(towards window) area of the cap, and use your fingers (friction) to pull the top cap to the front of the vehicle. They will usually come right off. I have had a stubborn one or so, but just keep working it, it will come off. It also helps if you are in a heated garage to warm up the plastic.

 

C

Posted
NO SCREWDRIVER! You will mark up things. Just go to the inside(towards window) area of the cap, and use your fingers (friction) to pull the top cap to the front of the vehicle. They will usually come right off. I have had a stubborn one or so, but just keep working it, it will come off. It also helps if you are in a heated garage to warm up the plastic.

 

C

That is what I tried to do but I got two stubborn one I think you are correct about the warmer garage I am going to wait until it is not -9 outside and then try thanks for all the info.

Posted
NO SCREWDRIVER! You will mark up things. Just go to the inside(towards window) area of the cap, and use your fingers (friction) to pull the top cap to the front of the vehicle. They will usually come right off. I have had a stubborn one or so, but just keep working it, it will come off. It also helps if you are in a heated garage to warm up the plastic.

 

C

That is what I tried to do but I got two stubborn one I think you are correct about the warmer garage I am going to wait until it is not -9 outside and then try thanks for all the info.

 

 

At -9 I can assure you you will probably break something.

 

C

Posted

I recommend taking the entire rear housing off (top and bottom cap, it pops off pretty easily) and then removing top cap. This is how I did mine twice and I have not broken any tabs.

Posted
I recommend taking the entire rear housing off (top and bottom cap, it pops off pretty easily) and then removing top cap. This is how I did mine twice and I have not broken any tabs.

How does the bottom come off?

Posted
I recommend taking the entire rear housing off (top and bottom cap, it pops off pretty easily) and then removing top cap. This is how I did mine twice and I have not broken any tabs.

How does the bottom come off?

 

 

PM sent, but I will post it here in case others are wondering:

 

Warm it up first, so the plastic is not brittle. Then use some force, it will pop loose, then you can work your way around and pop the tabs loose and the entire thing will come off. The top cap has much tighter tabs and should be accessed from inside to release.

 

My experience:

 

I bought some Putco complete chrome covers that went over the OEM covers, it stuck on with double-sided tape. When I got them on, I realized there was a corner on the inside/bottom that interfered when they folded in, so I had to remove them to dremel the corner off. The tape was too strong, so while trying to free it, the entire housing popped loose. I then just dremeled the corner and put the housing back on. I did the same thing on both sides.

 

Then about a year later, I decided I did not like them anymore and wanted to go back to my stock painted ones. For fear of ruining the OEM painted top covers underneath, I bought some new ones. Well, I popped the rear housings off again and removed the chrome covers on the workbench, luckily, I was able to do so without ruining the painted ones. So, now I have a spare set of painted covers for when the original ones get beat up from road debris.

 

Each side has been off twice this way with no broken tabs. Once you see the tabs for the upper cap, you will see what I mean. Good luck, let me know how it goes.

Posted
I recommend taking the entire rear housing off (top and bottom cap, it pops off pretty easily) and then removing top cap. This is how I did mine twice and I have not broken any tabs.

How does the bottom come off?

 

 

PM sent, but I will post it here in case others are wondering:

 

Warm it up first, so the plastic is not brittle. Then use some force, it will pop loose, then you can work your way around and pop the tabs loose and the entire thing will come off. The top cap has much tighter tabs and should be accessed from inside to release.

 

My experience:

 

I bought some Putco complete chrome covers that went over the OEM covers, it stuck on with double-sided tape. When I got them on, I realized there was a corner on the inside/bottom that interfered when they folded in, so I had to remove them to dremel the corner off. The tape was too strong, so while trying to free it, the entire housing popped loose. I then just dremeled the corner and put the housing back on. I did the same thing on both sides.

 

Then about a year later, I decided I did not like them anymore and wanted to go back to my stock painted ones. For fear of ruining the OEM painted top covers underneath, I bought some new ones. Well, I popped the rear housings off again and removed the chrome covers on the workbench, luckily, I was able to do so without ruining the painted ones. So, now I have a spare set of painted covers for when the original ones get beat up from road debris.

 

Each side has been off twice this way with no broken tabs. Once you see the tabs for the upper cap, you will see what I mean. Good luck, let me know how it goes.

 

Did what Jeff said and took off top and bottom had them both off and back on in less than 30 minutes. Thanks Jeff!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hello Jeff, I also want to thank you for the tip. I removed mine top and bottom and installed the color coded ones in about 10 minutes. I found that if you fold the mirror back and grab it at the split (front to back) it comes right off no tools needed. The tabs on the cheap plastic top cover will break off very easily especially the inner tab nearest the cab. ooppss

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,717
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Tiffanyrose
    Newest Member
    Tiffanyrose
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 1 Anonymous, 1,025 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I tried tapping it.  This might sound like a dumb question, you should feel vibration or some type of noise when it turns on? Can someone please verify? Thank you all!
    • I feel better now for my own view point and actions or lack there of towards the dealership service theme reading your post and others. GM corporate is who offers the two free oil changes on the HD trucks and I bought my truck in Feb of 2025 and those oil change offers run out within 2 years I believe and I highly doubt I will be using either one of them. I had asked if I could officially give those free services to another customer ( a friend ) and they said no, its all a GM corporate thing based on the vehicle in question. What that service advisor did however was go into a little story about how such and such customer was denied engine warranty because he had done his own oil changes because then they are not documented ... you see where that goes and so an employee playing the game of scaring the customer into having the service work done there most certainly triggered my thought process. At a later date I did talk to the person who handles warranty claims at the dealership and she said to be sure to document the oil changes and keep receipts for the oil and filter ( coped the receipts from cases of Mobil oil and case of filters I bought from them ) and the vehicles VIN, the date of service, mileage etc and staple that together as a record I would give them if that was ever needed and I keep my own log book for services for each vehicle as well. Oh and about 8 months after I bought the truck the dealer starts calling me to offer a maintenance service since they haven't seen my vehicle show up on their system ... for the mere fee of 300.00 Canadian to change the oil and rotate the tires and a few other minor checks and I declined the offer, I get the call again a couple of months later for the same thing and she could tell I was not interested and she asked if they should take my name off the call list and I said yes, do that !.    By the way did you happen to keep your factory oil filter to open it up and see the surprises inside as I expect some will show up as per the odd little sliver of metal shaving and particles that the filter does trap along with bits of grey silicone sealer that come off of the inside edge of mating surfaces. I have cut open every filter so far on my truck although few miles but have changed the oil often and the second filter was vastly better with very little of anything, that first filter was the unsettling one as I expected it would be. 
    • I get why they do this…but man…not ideal. I only extract on inboard boat engines because the drains are buried and even then I hate it because it’s easy to leave a quart behind with that method.   They should market it as an “oil refresh” not oil change!
    • I only get oil changed where I can watch. Valvoline pulls through the dipstick into a see thru glass. When done they show me the dipstick. About the only way they can mess up is using the wrong oil. But that secret wouldn’t stay secret long. Honda uses TQ wrenches on everything. You can watch through a plate glass window. Discount tires does that with tires. Trust but verify. 
    • I would not argue that with you. It would be pointless to argue against the truth and you speak the truth.    My question and in fact the entire point of this thread is an exploration into the levers of wear which happens no matter how well we maintain our powertrains.    Some of these levers we exert a good deal of influence over which can and do result is lower wear, longer powertrain life. Some others we are sort of stuck with.    An engine is typically done when the ring to bore seal no longer is able to do the job effectively. Normally the first thing to go in a engine otherwise well maintained and adult driven is this seal.    Looking into the means, methods, products and attitudes that influence the rate of wear seems a worthwhile inquiry to me.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...