Doing The Hi Beam Mode With Low Beams

Kodiak450 · January 9, 2010

Where is that thread on how to jump the fuses with a diode to allow your hi beams to come on with your low beams? I ordered a set of HID 6000k's for my hi beams and want both HID's (lows and high's) to work at the same time.

There was a thread about this 6-8 months ago, and someone posted a link to where a diagram was posted about the fuse box, and what fuses they used.

Thanks in advance.

ddbck · January 10, 2010

Might want to check your local laws first. I know here it is $250.00 fine for the 1st ticket, and they do enforce this law here as well as many other states.

Kodiak450 · January 10, 2010

I could care less about local laws, I am not planning on driving at night with highs on with on coming traffic, that is unless they refuse to turn off their high beams.

Back in the 90's I used to have 5 KC Daylighters @ 150 watt a bulb. I could transform dark feilds at night into daytime daylight. I would mostly use the lights for off roading and hunting, but also used them for hi beams on those dark country back roads.

Stranger ranger · January 11, 2010

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/sh...cuit&page=2

best free thing you can do IMO

steiny93 · January 11, 2010

yep, this mod rocks

I changed my highs to hid's first, was annoyed by the slow warm-up time so added this low/hi mod, absolutely happy now.

Added 2 pairs of hella's over the cab last week and spent the weekend on the ice fishing. With the hid's the hella's aren't really needed, kind of disappointed by that but having the rear facing ones is a huge win.

Kodiak450 · January 11, 2010

I eventially found the thread that explains the diode jump from 85 to 85, thanks. Gonna go to RS today and see if they have the $1.00 diode (1N4005) and fuse taps.

xwire · January 11, 2010

I eventially found the thread that explains the diode jump from 85 to 85, thanks. Gonna go to RS today and see if they have the $1.00 diode (1N4005) and fuse taps.

do you have that link? I am on my thrid relay having them wired up that way and would love to see how it's done with a diode instead

thanks

Kodiak450 · January 12, 2010

I got the diode today (the correct one) and then some fuse taps. After soildering fuse taps, the taps seemed to big to fit into the fuse holes, so I had an extra diode and placed one end in the 85 hi fuse socket, and the other in the 85 low socket hole. The diode barely reached the second socket. Well then put the fuses in and high's did not come on with lows, so I knew diode was in the correct way according to what was posted, so I flipped it around and tried it the other way and at that point could not get the diode to stretch into the other hole so gave up.

Firgured it would be easier just to use a regualr electrical wire, this way I know I'll have enough length and play in the wire to route it wround fuses. The high 85 on my truck is on left corner, and same with the low beam fuse, except on opposite side and surrounded by other fuses, so the only way to route diode wire to get to the other side is to have diode run under that fuse and then into the 85 hole. Not an easy task to do, when surrounded by fuses and freezing cold outside.

I got my high beams today (6000k) and had to mode the high beam light bracket holder to accomodate the bulbs. I have an after market LED Halo projection lens, so bulbs that I ordered are for OEM head lights. So with a few modes and bending the hole back to open it up a bit (so that the bulbs would fit) I was able to get them installed. I like the high beam 6000k, they are very bright. But I can see now why people complained about them taking time to warm up when switching to highs. I get a 2 second relay before lights are charged up. So I can see where this jump from 85 to 85 would come in handy. I'm just going to try it with a regular wire, the diode is not long enough and flexible like a wire is. Or unless having a diode is absolutely necessary? Then I can soilder a wire to each end so that I have the flex I need to route it around the other fuses.

Stranger ranger · January 12, 2010

ohhhh you were looking for the one in the engine compartment fuse box, my bad. Works the same.

steiny93 · January 12, 2010

fyi

when i added the diode i needed to solder on about 4 inches of 20 gauge wire onto each end of the diode, that wire is what i pushed under the relays to make the contact

if you want i can send over a pic

Kodiak450 · January 12, 2010

fyi
when i added the diode i needed to solder on about 4 inches of 20 gauge wire onto each end of the diode, that wire is what i pushed under the relays to make the contact

if you want i can send over a pic

Yea post a pic, thanks.. I was thinking of doing same exact thing! BTW, I hate soildering that tiny diode, maybe it's my gun, it's too big for the job. I gotta be careful I don't over heat the diode with it. If only soilder wouldn't cure as fast as it does.

Now what was the other way it was done from in cab fuse box? What are the fuses there you used?

Just to verify, the diode part with the little line around it, that part should be closer to the high beam fuse, right?

Kodiak450 · January 12, 2010

Wanted to add one thing I noticed. When I took out my fuses (the high and low fuse) I noticed the numbers were also on the bottom of the fuse. Like 85, 86, ect. However that fuse was not lined up with the 85 on the fuse board. I assume it doesn't make a difference, cause it was working all this time to begin with. Basically all fuses were installed so that the lettering on the fuses appeared to be upside down from my point of view, while standing next to my truck on the DS, looking on to the fuse box.

steiny93 · January 12, 2010

here is a link to the instructions I used, they have some great pic's http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179827, the first pic is exactly what mine looks like (the diode with the extra wires soldered onto it)

on the direction of the diode: [run the diode with the bottle cap pointing toward the highbeam fuse 85 pin]

regarding the position of the light relays, in my truck they were all installed backwards from the schematic; i didn't change them around I just removed the 2 i needed and reinserted with the leads from the diodes

I'm not following as to why you would have issues soldering to the diode, the ones I picked up had about 3 inches of wire on each end; I could have sodered them with a torch

Hard Enduro Racing · January 12, 2010

try this keeps high and low beams on at the same time

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcata...archField=30822

Kodiak450 · January 13, 2010

here is a link to the instructions I used, they have some great pic's http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179827, the first pic is exactly what mine looks like (the diode with the extra wires soldered onto it)

on the direction of the diode: [run the diode with the bottle cap pointing toward the highbeam fuse 85 pin]

regarding the position of the light relays, in my truck they were all installed backwards from the schematic; i didn't change them around I just removed the 2 i needed and reinserted with the leads from the diodes

I'm not following as to why you would have issues soldering to the diode, the ones I picked up had about 3 inches of wire on each end; I could have sodered them with a torch

I was soildering the diode to the fuse tape end. The diode wire is way too small to crimp it on, so I had to break apart the plastic on the female connector and soilder it on. The fuse taps winded up being to big anyways, and that was literally the only package of fuse taps they had left at the auto parts store. I should have no problem doing it to a wire, I got my soildering gun right here. I'll dig through my wires in my garage and find a wire tomorrow and soilder it.

Yea, I wouldn't spend $63 on that device, looks way over priced imo.