Jump to content

Automatic Rainsensing Wipers


Recommended Posts

Posted
I have no idea how to turn this function on. Does my truck have this?

 

I know GM deleted that option on the 2010 Escalades, maybe the '09 Denalis too?

 

Edit: Just googled it. Your truck should have the option.

 

To turn it on, make sure the arrow is pointing on the lower 3 levels. The top two will over-ride the system, but the bottom three are for the rain sensing system. The highest one is the most sensitive (one I use all the time), and the lowest one is not as much sensitive. Sometimes when it rains, the wipers won't work unless you toggle it back and forth.

 

Made this n00b picture. Should help you. :confused:

 

fsf.jpg

Posted

From pg 3-11 of my 09 sierra owners manual:

 

Rainsense™ II Wipers

For vehicles with Rainsense™ II windshield wipers, the

moisture sensor is located next to the inside rearview

mirror and is mounted on the windshield. When active,

these sensors are able to detect moisture on the

windshield and automatically turn on the wipers.

To turn on the Rainsense feature, the wipers must be

set to one of the five delay settings on the multifunction

lever. Each of the five settings adjusts the sensitivity

of the sensor.

Since different drivers have different setting preferences,

it is recommended that the mid-range setting (position 3)

be used initially. For more wipes, select the higher

settings; for fewer wipes, select the lower settings located

closer to the off position on the multifunction lever.

The sensor will automatically control the frequency of the

wipes from the off setting to the high speed setting

according to the weather conditions. The wipers can be

left in a rainsense mode even when it is not raining.

When Rainsense is active, the headlamps will turn on

automatically if the exterior lamp control is in the

AUTO position and the wipers are active.

Notice: Going through an automatic car wash with

the wipers on can damage them. Turn the wipers

off when going through an automatic car wash.

  • 6 months later...
Posted
From pg 3-11 of my 09 sierra owners manual:

 

Rainsense™ II Wipers

For vehicles with Rainsense™ II windshield wipers, the

moisture sensor is located next to the inside rearview

mirror and is mounted on the windshield. When active,

these sensors are able to detect moisture on the

windshield and automatically turn on the wipers.

To turn on the Rainsense feature, the wipers must be

set to one of the five delay settings on the multifunction

lever. Each of the five settings adjusts the sensitivity

of the sensor.

Since different drivers have different setting preferences,

it is recommended that the mid-range setting (position 3)

be used initially. For more wipes, select the higher

settings; for fewer wipes, select the lower settings located

closer to the off position on the multifunction lever.

The sensor will automatically control the frequency of the

wipes from the off setting to the high speed setting

according to the weather conditions. The wipers can be

left in a rainsense mode even when it is not raining.

When Rainsense is active, the headlamps will turn on

automatically if the exterior lamp control is in the

AUTO position and the wipers are active.

Notice: Going through an automatic car wash with

the wipers on can damage them. Turn the wipers

off when going through an automatic car wash.

 

OK so I just bought a 2010 Denali which I "assumed" came with the rain sense, since there is no sign of it on the vehicle can this be retrofitted? :dunno:

Posted

I dont need something to tell me when to turn my wipers on haha! Like its so damn hard to turn them on yourself! I never heard of such a thing! Thats to funny

Posted
OK so I just bought a 2010 Denali which I "assumed" came with the rain sense, since there is no sign of it on the vehicle can this be retrofitted? :fume:

 

 

I just bought a 2010 denali as well. Found out GM deleted that option. I have it on my 2008 Escalade and use it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...