Jump to content

Leaking Transfer Case

Stranger ranger

By Stranger ranger
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

Stranger ranger Enthusiast

Stranger ranger

Posted
Posted

This probably could have been answered in the heavy duty section, but it might be a warranty issue. My 06 2500 hd is leaking transfer case fluid from the output shaft where the drive shaft goes in. Doesn't look like much but its there and its irritating to see it when the truck only has 36K miles. Would this be worth my time in bringing it in for warranty or can it just be a bad seal? If that's all it is, I will just do it myself, but if its more, then I need to bring it it. Looks like its only leaking when its moving and its not a significant amount, yet because i checked it and it wasnt low.

 

any input will be appreciated, thanks.

Westlotorn Enthusiast

Westlotorn

Posted
Posted

Changing a seal is pretty easy and faster than a trip to the dealer but you don't want to void a good warranty.

 

I checked and GM used 4 transfer cases in these trucks. New Process model 246, 261C and 262C or a Borg Warner 4482.

 

All of the New Process designs listed use a National Seal Part # 710496 The book says this is a booted design ( the seal has a rubber boot in addition to the seal

 

The BW design uses National part number 4503N. National has been building seals for years and has a good name for quaility products.

 

I have changed the 1/2 ton shaft seal but have not done a 3/4 ton in quite a while. If you do it, jack the back of the truck up high so the oil stays put while the seal is out, or it is a great time to change the oil and change the seal while the oil is out.

 

Good luck

Nytemare Senior Enthusiast

Nytemare

Posted
Posted
Changing a seal is pretty easy and faster than a trip to the dealer but you don't want to void a good warranty.

 

I checked and GM used 4 transfer cases in these trucks. New Process model 246, 261C and 262C or a Borg Warner 4482.

 

All of the New Process designs listed use a National Seal Part # 710496 The book says this is a booted design ( the seal has a rubber boot in addition to the seal

 

The BW design uses National part number 4503N. National has been building seals for years and has a good name for quaility products.

 

I have changed the 1/2 ton shaft seal but have not done a 3/4 ton in quite a while. If you do it, jack the back of the truck up high so the oil stays put while the seal is out, or it is a great time to change the oil and change the seal while the oil is out.

 

Good luck

Yeah, exactly...the part is pretty cheap too.

gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

you have no factory warranty ,what warranty do you have ?

 

the deductible is way more than doin it yourself if it's an extended warranty

Westlotorn Enthusiast

Westlotorn

Posted
Posted
is this common? i mean 36k miles and a bad seal. i know anything is possible but dang.

 

No, not common at all. I would check for a balance condition on the Driveshaft. If it has been damaged in some way, 4x4 over rocks maybe? When a driveshaft takes a hit it can cause vibration that can make the seal leak.

Maybe the Ujoints are just worn out causing vibration.

Usually if they don't leak when new they won't start leaking until something changes or they age and get hard. All seals of this type will age. Maybe someone else has a better take on this.

Stranger ranger Enthusiast

Stranger ranger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I do have a 12 month factory warranty, for the reason the truck was traded on. Previous owner complained and traded due to the nv4500 making noise, which they all do. I'm not one bit concerned with that, I'm more worried about why its leaking or the cause. From 0-100mph there is not one drive train vibration, that I can feel anyways. I dunno, I'm gonna let it go for a while longer and see if it gets worse, or maybe just change the seal and see if it goes bad again. If it does, she gotta come in.

Nytemare Senior Enthusiast

Nytemare

Posted
Posted
I do have a 12 month factory warranty, for the reason the truck was traded on. Previous owner complained and traded due to the nv4500 making noise, which they all do. I'm not one bit concerned with that, I'm more worried about why its leaking or the cause. From 0-100mph there is not one drive train vibration, that I can feel anyways. I dunno, I'm gonna let it go for a while longer and see if it gets worse, or maybe just change the seal and see if it goes bad again. If it does, she gotta come in.

Sometimes seals are bad...they get nicked when being put it, or they are just the 1 out of X number of seals that are crap...

Replace it...it takes like 20 min and about 25 bucks...don't just let it leak...you'll have much larger problems if you do.

  • 1 month later...
BrockwayMT Enthusiast

BrockwayMT

Posted
Posted

It happens. No big deal to change. It's been know to happen in trucks that are lightly loaded most of the time. The yoke stays out in an unloaded truck and you get some surface rust on the outer end of the yoke. You then put a load of topsoil in and it pushes the rust into the seal lip and you have a seal leak.

 

Slip yoke is an inherently flawed design. Lots of problems with rear output seals. Ford uses a fixed flange on the transfer case and they don't have that problem. We tried to sell GM on a fixed flange transfercase but that means a driveline that is $20 more so the vehicle platform groups refuse to allow it. Now Ford is going back to using some slip yokes because they want to save the $20. Everything to do with these trucks is about cost.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Electrical Problem - solved

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • Brendan C
      2026 6.6 L5P oil cooler leaking oil at 4,000 miles

      By Brendan C · Posted

      New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • Vu1can
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By Vu1can · Posted

      So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • CNH-320
      Electrical Problem - solved

      By CNH-320 · Posted

      Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • 2022LtTbZ71
      Service 4wd, ESC light, traction control light on, Service charging system (vehicle may stall)

      By 2022LtTbZ71 · Posted

      That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...