Jump to content

Adding Fog Lights And High-4 Option - Obs


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 98 K1500. I have found the forum for how to make all 4 headlights stay on when the high beams are on. I'm looking forward to doing it and adding fog lights when the weather warms up (in Wisconsin).

 

As shown in the forum above, I too will be installing a switch but my switch will be located in the overhead console. (When I bought the truck, the guy before me had cut holes and installed 4 rocker switches). I might put my relay somewhere else. I just don't like the idea of breaking through the paint (salt in Wisconsin is a mean little devil). What wire goes from where to the switch and from the switch to where?

 

I am also planning on adding after market fog lights (from a local Walwart) in the factory locations (I've never seen them on a truck, but I think they were only available on 2WD trucks.) Again, when I bought the truck, the holes in the lower valance were already cut. What I want to do is make it so that when I turn on my parking lights the fog lights turn on. I will also be running wiring up to my switches so that I can turn off the fog lights when I don't want them. Does this mean that the fog lights will have to draw power from the same circuit that the parking lights do? Keep in mind that my fog lights are 55 watts each.

 

I have never done any kind of wiring except for my sound system that I did myself. Any suggestions and simple wording will help tremendously. Please no suggestions to get rid of the extra switches.

 

Thanks and if anyone needs more info, let me know.

Posted

OK, I bought 2 40A relays and 2 30A max inline fuse holders.

I plan on putting in the same size fuse as the headlights are now and using a 15A for the fog lights.

 

My relays are from Optronics.

The back says:

30-terminal for lights or horns

86-terminal from switch

87-terminal from power source

85-terminal for relay round wire

 

This is making the instructions confusing from the post linked to above.

 

Can I put the switch on the grounding wire?

Does the fuse go on the power source side of the relay or the light side of the relay?

 

So, what the heck goes where?

Where do my switch and fuse go?

Posted

OK - Fuses on Battery side of Relay.

 

What wire do I run to the switches?

From where to the switch and from the switch to where.

 

Thanks for the response. I have yet to do any wiring on my truck besides speaker wire.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...