Jump to content

Yesterday Was An Expensive Day

az'03Silverado

Recommended Posts

az'03Silverado Senior Enthusiast

az'03Silverado

Posted
Posted

I was driving to work yesterday on the freeway. The truck started bucking a little. Then it got worse. It's happened before when one of my plug wires got loose so I pulled over and checked them all. They were fine. I started it back up and went on. The bucking came back and got worse. So I pulled over again and it died when I put it in park. Now it wouldn't start again. So, I called for a tow and took it to the dealer. Turns out the fuel pump was crap. $965.00 later, it's running fine. I could have done it myself but I just didn't have the time. I hate days like that. :noway:

r1byker Enthusiast

r1byker

Posted
Posted

I feel your pain; mine went out on my '07 Suburban a couple years ago. It cost just about the same to replace. I was lucky because it didn't strand me; it just got to be hard starting, taking a couple cranks of the starter to get it going.

 

I wonder if there's a defect because I sure hear a lot of stories of the fuel pump going out on these things.

ColoradoSkiCountry Senior Enthusiast

ColoradoSkiCountry

Posted
Posted

The fuel pumps on the 99+ models are located in the fuel tank. They are cooled mainly by the fuel in the tank. If you run your gas tank below 1/4 often, or even just a few times, it could be enough to cause the fuel pump to overheat and fail. That is the most common cause for them going out.

r1byker Enthusiast

r1byker

Posted
Posted
The fuel pumps on the 99+ models are located in the fuel tank. They are cooled mainly by the fuel in the tank. If you run your gas tank below 1/4 often, or even just a few times, it could be enough to cause the fuel pump to overheat and fail. That is the most common cause for them going out.

 

That's helpful; mine started showing symptoms while I was blasting down I-5 to L. A. It was 105 degrees out and I had about 1/2 tank when I stopped for lunch. I came back out and that's when the hard starting began.

MarkD Senior Enthusiast

MarkD

Posted
Posted

It happened to a friend of mines wife in her 03 Denali XL. It stopped dead in an intersection while taking her three daughters to school. $630 repair bill.

c4cruiser Enthusiast

c4cruiser

Posted
Posted

Sometimes you can get the pump to run if take a few swats at the tank with a baseball bat or piece of 2x4. Even if the pump runs for a couple minutes it can get you to a safer place if you get stuck in traffic.

 

Moving the bed is the quick way and works if you are going to do a dIY replacement but most shops ( and especially the stealerships) will drop the tank once the truck is up on a lift.

jblakeney Senior Enthusiast

jblakeney

Posted
Posted
I was driving to work yesterday on the freeway. The truck started bucking a little. Then it got worse. It's happened before when one of my plug wires got loose so I pulled over and checked them all. They were fine. I started it back up and went on. The bucking came back and got worse. So I pulled over again and it died when I put it in park. Now it wouldn't start again. So, I called for a tow and took it to the dealer. Turns out the fuel pump was crap. $965.00 later, it's running fine. I could have done it myself but I just didn't have the time. I hate days like that. :noway:

 

Haha, sorry dude.... Been there wore the Tee Shirt and still have it tooooo.

 

If you run your truck below half tank much... Consider edgewise.... I am in the parts industry, electric fuel pump's that drop into the tank are designed to be cooled by the gas in the tank. When you allow the fuel in the tank to get low it lets the pump get hot. This causes resistance (aka heat) to build in the pump and slowly kills the pump (slowly was kinda loosely used faster than normal).

 

NOW with that said, try this on..... Just dropped the family off at the condo 400 miles from home had gone back to town for a minute. Stop at a red light truck died (1995 Chevy Blazer 4.3L TPI) FULL TANK I MEAN full tank (I am a gas packer all the way to the gas cap) I had just filled up. Pushed on over to the Chevy dealership that was right beside the light. It would not have been so bad if I had not put THAT PUMP in two weeks before......... The one the dealer put in died when we got home a week or so later..... Turned out that the pump was only getting 8-9 volts through the harness. NP, I just ran a heavy 10 gauge wire to the back put me a relay back their and used the OE harness wire as the trigger for the relay. NEVER had another minutes trouble with that Fuel Pump in that truck.. I had it changed 4 times and I changed it 7 myself (once on a 6 lane interstate to boot)....... NOBODY bothered to check the voltage...... I mean I HAD A zipper welded in on that truck before I got the problem fixed.

 

By the way the FP was not the only problem on that trip that year... 2 year old truck serp belt broke.... Everybody that was mad with me when I stopped at my store on the way down to get a couple things (serp belt, hoses, 3 gallons 50/50 antifreeze, hose clamps) was sure quite when I put that new belt I had got on the way down (nearest place was about 30 miles either direction)...... Stupid me thou did not think about tools...... I walked probably 1/4 mile into the woods till I found a good enough stick to pry the tensioner back so I could get the belt on..

 

Jbo

az'03Silverado Senior Enthusiast

az'03Silverado

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one that this has happened to. :noway: I usually fill the tank when it's about halfway between 1/4 and 1/2 which is about 6-7 gallons left in the tank. (I usually end up pumping 20 gallons in). The truck is about to hit 100,000 miles so I'm not disappointed with it or anything since this is the first pump change. I hated to pay the price at the dealer since I'm a mechanic (airplane) and am capable of changing it myself. I just didn't have the time. Plus, the new pump has a lifetime warranty good at any GM dealer so that makes me feel better about paying $400 in labor plus buying the part.

ken1mod Senior Enthusiast

ken1mod

Posted
Posted

Gentlemen,

 

I have heard this point about the pump being cooled by fuel in the tank. I believe this is incorrect. The pump is cooled by fuel being pumped THROUGH the pump. Keeping the tank full won't hurt but is not necessary. I always run the tank down to a gallon or two in all my vehicles. 160k on current fuel pump in Silvy.

 

Running out of fuel is bad, very bad.

 

Ken

rjirvine Enthusiast

rjirvine

Posted
Posted
I was driving to work yesterday on the freeway. The truck started bucking a little. Then it got worse. It's happened before when one of my plug wires got loose so I pulled over and checked them all. They were fine. I started it back up and went on. The bucking came back and got worse. So I pulled over again and it died when I put it in park. Now it wouldn't start again. So, I called for a tow and took it to the dealer. Turns out the fuel pump was crap. $965.00 later, it's running fine. I could have done it myself but I just didn't have the time. I hate days like that. :lol:

 

Haha, sorry dude.... Been there wore the Tee Shirt and still have it tooooo.

 

If you run your truck below half tank much... Consider edgewise.... I am in the parts industry, electric fuel pump's that drop into the tank are designed to be cooled by the gas in the tank. When you allow the fuel in the tank to get low it lets the pump get hot. This causes resistance (aka heat) to build in the pump and slowly kills the pump (slowly was kinda loosely used faster than normal).

 

NOW with that said, try this on..... Just dropped the family off at the condo 400 miles from home had gone back to town for a minute. Stop at a red light truck died (1995 Chevy Blazer 4.3L TPI) FULL TANK I MEAN full tank (I am a gas packer all the way to the gas cap) I had just filled up. Pushed on over to the Chevy dealership that was right beside the light. It would not have been so bad if I had not put THAT PUMP in two weeks before......... The one the dealer put in died when we got home a week or so later..... Turned out that the pump was only getting 8-9 volts through the harness. NP, I just ran a heavy 10 gauge wire to the back put me a relay back their and used the OE harness wire as the trigger for the relay. NEVER had another minutes trouble with that Fuel Pump in that truck.. I had it changed 4 times and I changed it 7 myself (once on a 6 lane interstate to boot)....... NOBODY bothered to check the voltage...... I mean I HAD A zipper welded in on that truck before I got the problem fixed.

 

By the way the FP was not the only problem on that trip that year... 2 year old truck serp belt broke.... Everybody that was mad with me when I stopped at my store on the way down to get a couple things (serp belt, hoses, 3 gallons 50/50 antifreeze, hose clamps) was sure quite when I put that new belt I had got on the way down (nearest place was about 30 miles either direction)...... Stupid me thou did not think about tools...... I walked probably 1/4 mile into the woods till I found a good enough stick to pry the tensioner back so I could get the belt on..

 

Jbo

 

 

 

I believe the hole in the handle for the jack and spare tire lowering is designed to release the belt tensioner, not sure if it still applies to your year model though.

rjirvine Enthusiast

rjirvine

Posted
Posted
I was driving to work yesterday on the freeway. The truck started bucking a little. Then it got worse. It's happened before when one of my plug wires got loose so I pulled over and checked them all. They were fine. I started it back up and went on. The bucking came back and got worse. So I pulled over again and it died when I put it in park. Now it wouldn't start again. So, I called for a tow and took it to the dealer. Turns out the fuel pump was crap. $965.00 later, it's running fine. I could have done it myself but I just didn't have the time. I hate days like that. :lol:

 

Haha, sorry dude.... Been there wore the Tee Shirt and still have it tooooo.

 

If you run your truck below half tank much... Consider edgewise.... I am in the parts industry, electric fuel pump's that drop into the tank are designed to be cooled by the gas in the tank. When you allow the fuel in the tank to get low it lets the pump get hot. This causes resistance (aka heat) to build in the pump and slowly kills the pump (slowly was kinda loosely used faster than normal).

 

NOW with that said, try this on..... Just dropped the family off at the condo 400 miles from home had gone back to town for a minute. Stop at a red light truck died (1995 Chevy Blazer 4.3L TPI) FULL TANK I MEAN full tank (I am a gas packer all the way to the gas cap) I had just filled up. Pushed on over to the Chevy dealership that was right beside the light. It would not have been so bad if I had not put THAT PUMP in two weeks before......... The one the dealer put in died when we got home a week or so later..... Turned out that the pump was only getting 8-9 volts through the harness. NP, I just ran a heavy 10 gauge wire to the back put me a relay back their and used the OE harness wire as the trigger for the relay. NEVER had another minutes trouble with that Fuel Pump in that truck.. I had it changed 4 times and I changed it 7 myself (once on a 6 lane interstate to boot)....... NOBODY bothered to check the voltage...... I mean I HAD A zipper welded in on that truck before I got the problem fixed.

 

By the way the FP was not the only problem on that trip that year... 2 year old truck serp belt broke.... Everybody that was mad with me when I stopped at my store on the way down to get a couple things (serp belt, hoses, 3 gallons 50/50 antifreeze, hose clamps) was sure quite when I put that new belt I had got on the way down (nearest place was about 30 miles either direction)...... Stupid me thou did not think about tools...... I walked probably 1/4 mile into the woods till I found a good enough stick to pry the tensioner back so I could get the belt on..

 

Jbo

 

 

 

I believe the hole in the handle for the jack and spare tire lowering is designed to release the belt tensioner, not sure if it still applies to your year model though.

daniel4191 Enthusiast

daniel4191

Posted
Posted

same thing happened here not too long ago. Didnt take it to dealership and now im glad seeing how much you had the hand out. I got out tow and pump replacement for only $650 at a local trusted mechanic.

svensk Senior Enthusiast

svensk

Posted
Posted
Gentlemen,

 

I have heard this point about the pump being cooled by fuel in the tank. I believe this is incorrect. The pump is cooled by fuel being pumped THROUGH the pump. Keeping the tank full won't hurt but is not necessary. I always run the tank down to a gallon or two in all my vehicles. 160k on current fuel pump in Silvy.

 

Running out of fuel is bad, very bad.

 

Ken

Yeah my pump died just before winter. It had a 170K miles on it. Never once ran it out of gas, but I would consistently run it down to 3-4 gallons left a tank.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,835
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ballencd
    Newest Member
    ballencd
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 595 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • mark249
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By mark249 · Posted

      Brought my 2015 Colorado into the dealership to check my touch screen issues, had that ghost touch thing happening. They said I needed a new touch screen and they could either order me one for $500. The lady at the service deck was nice enough to tell me I could order a touch screen online for less, she did stipulate that the touch screen had to be factory OEM, you can't pair an aftermarket screen to my radio seeing it was 2015, it had to be a GM factory OEM only. I found a few on Amazon and Ebay by the numbers on the back of the old screen, DJ080PA-01A GM# 22740886, Some said "OEM" in the description and others just said "Replacement". Would a replacement be the same as a OEM as long as it had the same numbers on the back of the screen? In some of the descriptions they also show different brand names but same numbers, is that an issue?  
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      I have both but typically use the 4 legged walker (wheels on front, ski's on back).   The four wheeler is starting to be used on "longer" outdoor walks.  The 4 legged walker is particularly helpful in practicing good walking posture.  Both of my knees are at different stages of recovery and I'm trying to not develop poor habits.  I can actually manage with a cane but it's very difficult not to favor one leg over the other.  My PT recommends I continue with my 4 legged walker for a while.  Yesterday was four weeks since my last knee replacement and I'm excited about my progress to date.  It has been a hell of a rough journey so far but it is exciting to witness  systematic and continuous improvement.  I went for years watching the decline of my "mobility".  It seems that everyday now I am alerting my wife to something I can do now that I couldn't a day or two ago!  I encourage anyone facing the prospect of knee replacement to share any concerns with others who have had the surgery.  It isn't an instant fix but rather is a considerable amount of short term pain for long term gain.  Recovery time and pain levels vary for individuals post surgery but the end results are typically very positive and I've never encountered anyone regretting having had the surgery. 
    • diyer2
      AFM Disabler Question

      By diyer2 · Posted

      The lifter issue can be dealt with by shorter oil changes and quality oil IMO.
    • diyer2
      Winter Returned

      By diyer2 · Posted

      Got heavy rain, hail and light rain yesterday. 
    • Core-Lokt
      Wiring Help, Please

      By Core-Lokt · Posted

      I'm putting in an A-pillar pod/gauges, and I'm asking if anybody can identify a (preferably) fuse for a switched power and illumination circuit on the driver's side interior fuse panel. Offhand, everything I checked with a test light was constant-hot, and I'd much rather uses a piggyback fuse. I can certainly find a wire, but I'd rather not half-tap.   Thanks in advance for any help.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...