Jump to content

Tailgate Won't Open


Recommended Posts

Posted

On my 2003 Silverado, the tailgate won't open. Took off the handle and found that the linking rod came loose on the left side at the latch(part closest to the taillamp). I tried jamming screwdrivers to open, but couldn't. I just greased both sides and the handle 6 months before because the tailgate was having trouble staying closed. I can get the right side to open, but not the left.

 

I have a pen sized camera. I'lll try to fish a coat hanger and pull on plastic piece on the inside.

 

Any ideas other than cut and replace the stud?

Posted
On my 2003 Silverado, the tailgate won't open. Took off the handle and found that the linking rod came loose on the left side at the latch(part closest to the taillamp). I tried jamming screwdrivers to open, but couldn't. I just greased both sides and the handle 6 months before because the tailgate was having trouble staying closed. I can get the right side to open, but not the left.

 

I have a pen sized camera. I'lll try to fish a coat hanger and pull on plastic piece on the inside.

 

Any ideas other than cut and replace the stud?

 

I just used a couple zip ties to tie the rod back to the plastic. Worked for a couple years before I sold the truck.

Posted
On my 2003 Silverado, the tailgate won't open. Took off the handle and found that the linking rod came loose on the left side at the latch(part closest to the taillamp). I tried jamming screwdrivers to open, but couldn't. I just greased both sides and the handle 6 months before because the tailgate was having trouble staying closed. I can get the right side to open, but not the left.

 

I have a pen sized camera. I'lll try to fish a coat hanger and pull on plastic piece on the inside.

 

Any ideas other than cut and replace the stud?

 

I just used a couple zip ties to tie the rod back to the plastic. Worked for a couple years before I sold the truck.

 

The rod came loose at the latch, not the handle. There's no way to reach in and zip tie it.

 

I was able to unlatch it. I taped the pen camera to the loose rod, about 6" from the end. The plastic clip was removed from the rod end. I focused the camera on the rod end. Put the whole assembly inside the tailgate and was able to hook the rod in the hole where it's supposed to go. A slight tug and the tailgate opened. This is the second use of this camera. Well worth the $130.

 

If you didn't have the camera, I imagine with enough time you could fish the rod and hook it in the whole and get the tailgate open.

 

I'm going to replace all of the plastic clips. Some how it came loose.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
    • you might read through the info on gmupfitter.com for your truck, to find a good power source.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...