Jump to content

mud flaps

terry2004

Recommended Posts

Shaners Senior Enthusiast

Shaners

Posted
Posted
GM has nice ones that are a molded flap and I think they have the bowties on them.  They work on trucks without factory wheel flares.  Check out our vendor "PartsZoneOnline" in the left hand column of this page.  If you don't see them listed there, send them a quick email and they'll take care of you.
TexasZ71 Enthusiast

TexasZ71

Posted
Posted

I put on the GM molded ones with the bow tie on my Z71.  I don't have fender flares.  I've had them on for a year and have been great.  Here's what they look like.

sil_271.gif

Just remeber they come in pairs.  And are diffrent for the front and back.  You can do the frots with standard wrenches.  But I havd to but a large torx socket for the rear pair.  I think it was a #45.  I can't remenber now.  I hope this helps you.

Brian

elboberino Enthusiast

elboberino

Posted
Posted
Maybe it is just me, cause lately I have been pretty stupid, but what is the difference between the "Custom Molded w/o Fender Flares - Fleetside" and the Flat w/ Contour Fleetside ?  I am dumb. ???   HELP ME! ???
TexasZ71 Enthusiast

TexasZ71

Posted
Posted

Well from what I can tell is that my custom molded flaps attach inside the wheel well and wrap around the fender.  They also attach a the lower either bold or torx headbolt on the bottom side of the rocker/fender.  This type of flap covers about an inch or two of the side of the fender.

 

The Flat with contour mount only on the inside of the wheel well and only project slightly around the fender.  Maybe 1/2" or so.  They are more of a standard mub flap.  I think they were originally designed for trucks with fender flares but I'm not sure.  Basically a generic fit vs. the custom molded will only fit the exact truck model designed for.

 

Brian

99silveradoz71 Senior Enthusiast

99silveradoz71

Posted
Posted
Just be sure to check the fit and consider putting something between the flare and the body to protect any rubbing.   Thought about flaps on my 99 a few months back, but at this point the rear quarters are already "weathered" and I didn't want to risk rubbing the fenders up front or having to drill.
Markeaux Enthusiast

Markeaux

Posted
Posted

For over a year I resisted mounting some Husky (no bow tie) molded mud guards on my 01 Tahoe (no flares), but after getting some tar and rock chips behind the tires I decided to put them on.  Mine did not come with any kind of protective tape/foam so I got some single-sided black high density foam tape at Pep Boys - one guard came loose so I took it off and there was no rubbing/paint problems.  

 

I did not use the Husky supplied mounting screws except for one at the bottom of each front guard.  I got some GM fender flare plastic pushin fasteners (ridged so they push in easily but don't pull out) and 1 or 2 holes on each guard lined up perfectly with the stock fender flare mounting holes, there was another stock fender flare hole that did not line up so I just drilled the guard in that location (kinda tricky to exactly mark the hole on the guard, though).  So it all looks factory and has held up good, except for one rear guard came loose at the car wash when the guy was rubbing protectant on it - I think he pulled on it and one of the oem ridged fasteners pulled loose - so just used a spare one to fix it.

 

Mark

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...