Jump to content

2010 3500 D/max, Good Deal?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Long time reader, first time poster.

 

I found a dealer that has 3 2010 Chevy 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax SRW long boxes.

Just the plain jane work truck, tilt, air, cruise, power locks and a CD.

 

They did get built with the locking diff, trans and eng coolers, BUT no hitch, wiring,

or integrated brake controller. I figured the hitch/wiring/controller would be almost standard on a 3500 D/max, guess not.

 

I estimate 300 for a hitch, 50 for wiring, and 125 for a brake controller.

 

The big question, $36,990, should I get it? IIRC when I had a dealer price one out a year ago, it was around $44,000 for a similar truck.

 

I'll have to live with vinyl seats, rubber floor mats, crank windows, and no XM.

 

What do you think????

Thanks in advance.

Rick

Posted

Hold out for an '11

 

Just to big of a difference in my book. Plus... Do you really want a "basic" truck for almost $37,000 :(

Posted

You guys are forgetting that a 2010 Duramax does not have any DEF (diesel exhuast fluid) to deal with A big plus if you ask me, that elminiates a lot of emissions equipment and associated costs if/when something malfunctions. There is nothing wrong with the 2010 and earlier frame suspension etc, it has served well on the HD trucks dating back to 2001. The c channel frame on pre 2011 trucks is extremely robust, more so than any ford or dodge c channel frame. I know manufacterers bost about torsional rigidiy this and that with the new boxed design. But my question to them would be why the the largest and most heavy duty trucks on the road still use the good ole' c channel?

 

A 2010 will be a VERY capable truck, and probably more truck than you'll ever need, and you will not have to deal with the emissions equipment and refilling of the DEF tank every 3-5000 miles or so (which depends on how hard the truck is being used).

Posted

I say it depends on what it will be used for. Short around town trips, or highway use? If it's around town i say go for the 2010, although that's to much to pay for it. If it's all highway then get an 2011 because the diesel will perform that much better and the DEF wont to that great in city driving IMO. But in the end it's what you want, good luck!

Posted

Seems like a bit too much for a base model truck. I am with the others that suggest you look at the 2011. There are some great deals out there with great 0% financing that can save you a bundle if you are financing a big chunk. I looked at the used market and determined buying new was a better deal. At least get some quotes.

Posted
Long time reader, first time poster.

 

I found a dealer that has 3 2010 Chevy 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax SRW long boxes.

Just the plain jane work truck, tilt, air, cruise, power locks and a CD.

 

They did get built with the locking diff, trans and eng coolers, BUT no hitch, wiring,

or integrated brake controller. I figured the hitch/wiring/controller would be almost standard on a 3500 D/max, guess not.

 

I estimate 300 for a hitch, 50 for wiring, and 125 for a brake controller.

 

The big question, $36,990, should I get it? IIRC when I had a dealer price one out a year ago, it was around $44,000 for a similar truck.

 

I'll have to live with vinyl seats, rubber floor mats, crank windows, and no XM.

 

What do you think????

Thanks in advance.

Rick

Posted

iv had a few trucks with the rubber floor and really like them they don't look horable and so easy to clean you can have people getting in and out of your truck with muddy boots 15 mins latter with a broom wash cloth and a can of tire shine. the vinal seats suck though if you get it try to find some different seats from a junk yard.

Posted

Thanks for your opinions.

 

I was wanting a 2010 to stay away from the DPF. When pricing a 2011 they are around 46K for a work truck and 52K for LT.

 

As far as pulling the 10 should handle my 13K trailer.

 

Dealership has 5 of these trucks that the military ordered. They are low-balling a price on my 2010 1500 for a trade, which is no surprise. Might try to trade my older 1 ton instead. But then I would have a 2010 1500 and a 3500. Not good on the pocket book.

 

I'll see how things work out over the next few days.

Thanks again.

Rick

Posted

Back in 2008 I had a chance to get a brand new 2007 Classic Duramax crew cab long bed 2 WD work truck for $ 23k!!!!!!!(including my $2,500 GM card rebate) It had A/C, CD player, nice cloth seats (same as LT1 version), rear defroster, cruise control, and tow package. It was being sold way under invoice because it was purchased by this dealer from a bankrupt dealership. I regret not buying it as an everyday driver, as prices like that will never be here again! :(

 

And then there was a brand new left over 2008 crew cab Duramax 4X4 LT1 for $ 31K (again with my $ 2,500 GM card rebate). This was proably the best price on a nicely equipped Duramax truck I have ever seen.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 399 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...