Jump to content

How To Wire To A Switched Fuse In My Fuse Box?

72Blazerod

Recommended Posts

72Blazerod Enthusiast

72Blazerod

Posted
Posted

Let's just start by saying I hate wiring. I usually get my buddy to wire up my stereos and accessories, but he's moving, so it's up to me. I have a cheap backup camera that I was to install in my 2006 GMC 2500 CrewCab Duramax. I can figure out how to splice the camera into the reverse light wireat the back of the truck, but I have to wire up power to the screen from a switched (only on when the ignition is on) fuse in my fuse panel (and the other wire to a ground). What do I need for this and what do I need to do so that I do it correctly and don't burn my truck down? Give it to me step by step, like wiring for dummies.

 

Thanks

tylerjenkins92@aol.com Senior Enthusiast

[email protected]

Posted
Posted

I would say use the ign. wire on your radio, but 06 use lan signals to turn on and off the radio. I'd use a prong on one of the SEO hookups in the convenience center under the left side of the dash by your left foot.

jdubya Enthusiast

jdubya

Posted
Posted

You said your buddy wired up stereos for you in the past. Do you have an aftermarket radio in your truck now? If so, this would be the easiest place to get the power and ground. If it is an aftermarket, you can connect the switched wire to the red wire in the aftermarket stereo harness and the ground to the black wire.

 

If this is not an option (if there is no aftermarket radio then there is not a 12v switched behind the radio) then you can go to your fuse box. Use your multimeter or test light to find a fuse that is 15+ amps that switches on and off with the truck's ignition. Pull the fuse and wrap the stripped end of your switched wire around one of the posts on the fuse and then stick the fuse back in the socket. You can get a piece of hardware called a "fuse tap" that you crimp onto the wire then hooks on the post if you want but I find that putting the wire directly on the fuse works best. Then crimp a ring terminal on to the ground and use a self tapping sheetmetal screw to fasten it to a clean piece of metal in the vehicle. You should test the metal to make sure that it is a good grounding point but I find that fastening to the body behind the drivers kick plate works well...

 

Don't worry about frying your truck just make sure that you tape any exposed wires that you strip them.... Good Luck.

rebelman06 Enthusiast

rebelman06

Posted
Posted

Like somebody said above, you can use the SEO plug (located next to the trailer brake controller plug) in the MBEC to get always hot (30 Amp), run/start (15A), or accessory/run (15A) +12V. I ordered the Delphi female pins along with a Delphi/Packard plastic connector for the MBEC for under $10 from the internet. If your interested in this idea, I can lookup the part numbers and website I ordered them from. It wont look half assed or rigged like tapping an already used fuse.

jdubya Enthusiast

jdubya

Posted
Posted
Like somebody said above, you can use the SEO plug (located next to the trailer brake controller plug) in the MBEC to get always hot (30 Amp), run/start (15A), or accessory/run (15A) +12V. I ordered the Delphi female pins along with a Delphi/Packard plastic connector for the MBEC for under $10 from the internet. If your interested in this idea, I can lookup the part numbers and website I ordered them from. It wont look half assed or rigged like tapping an already used fuse.

 

First off, if you read the guys post he says that he is not too familiar with or comfortable with wiring so something complex as you are suggesting will not work for him. While tapping a fuse is not the "Ideal" way to hook up an accessory, if it is done properly it will neither be nor look "half assed" or "rigged" and will be the easiest and safest way for a novice to hook up this device.

 

Thank you very much.....

rebelman06 Enthusiast

rebelman06

Posted
Posted

The method I described is no more complex than installing a fuse tap. In fact, you will need to make as many (or more) crimps with a fuse tap than by using the SEO plug. There is also a ground pin in the SEO connector, so both wires could be run to the same place, with no drilling into the body. The MBEC is also located about the same distance from the radio in the drivers side floorboard as the in-cab fuse box is. Why not route the wires there?

 

A fuse tap does look half assed and rigged. You suggested he wrap bare wire around the leg of a fuse. What do you suppose we call that? It sure as hell aint professional looking or the most reliable way. I think what I suggested is rather easy. If I wanted to make things somewhat complicated, I would suggest he go as far as soldering his connections, using heatshrink tubing, ect. I am guessing he is going to use scotch-loc connectors and buttsplices to connect everything, which is also a lazy way to wire things. I'm not a pro at soldering connections, but I've gotten pretty good with a little practice. If you want your install to look somewhat factory and be reliable and safe (as he did say he doesn't want to burn his truck down), I would suggest doing it my way. Call it what you want, but tapping a fuse like that is half assed to me.

 

"Thank you very much" :crazy:

  • 3 weeks later...
BigBodySS New Member

BigBodySS

Posted
Posted

Rebelman, I've stumbled onto this post while searching for an accessory wire setup for my aftermarket Pioneer AVH-P4200. Is the method you're suggesting safe to hook my accessory wire from the radio to the SEO plug?

 

I am a bit of a wiring idiot (don't even know how to sodder) but I imagine I can find this fuse easy enough. I purchased a couple add-a-circuit fuses from Autozone, can I use those in the SEO?

 

I'm not really sure how to identify the Accessory/Run (15A) +12V you referenced. Do you mean there are 3 seperate fuses underneath the SEO cap in the MBEC and one will be labeled accessory/run? I'm looking at my owners manual and the only descriptors for the SEO written in the owners manual are:

 

"SEO (D)

6-WAY

(A) BLK"

 

I'm sorry to be so ignorant, any help and direction would be extremely appreciated, pictures (which I'm having the hardest time finding online) would be great.

 

TIA!

 

BBSS

 

Like somebody said above, you can use the SEO plug (located next to the trailer brake controller plug) in the MBEC to get always hot (30 Amp), run/start (15A), or accessory/run (15A) +12V. I ordered the Delphi female pins along with a Delphi/Packard plastic connector for the MBEC for under $10 from the internet. If your interested in this idea, I can lookup the part numbers and website I ordered them from. It wont look half assed or rigged like tapping an already used fuse.
rebelman06 Enthusiast

rebelman06

Posted
Posted
Rebelman, I've stumbled onto this post while searching for an accessory wire setup for my aftermarket Pioneer AVH-P4200. Is the method you're suggesting safe to hook my accessory wire from the radio to the SEO plug?

 

I am a bit of a wiring idiot (don't even know how to sodder) but I imagine I can find this fuse easy enough. I purchased a couple add-a-circuit fuses from Autozone, can I use those in the SEO?

 

I'm not really sure how to identify the Accessory/Run (15A) +12V you referenced. Do you mean there are 3 seperate fuses underneath the SEO cap in the MBEC and one will be labeled accessory/run? I'm looking at my owners manual and the only descriptors for the SEO written in the owners manual are:

 

"SEO (D)

6-WAY

(A) BLK"

 

I'm sorry to be so ignorant, any help and direction would be extremely appreciated, pictures (which I'm having the hardest time finding online) would be great.

 

TIA!

 

BBSS

 

Like somebody said above, you can use the SEO plug (located next to the trailer brake controller plug) in the MBEC to get always hot (30 Amp), run/start (15A), or accessory/run (15A) +12V. I ordered the Delphi female pins along with a Delphi/Packard plastic connector for the MBEC for under $10 from the internet. If your interested in this idea, I can lookup the part numbers and website I ordered them from. It wont look half assed or rigged like tapping an already used fuse.

 

 

This thread I just put together should help: GTM800 Retained Accessory Power (99-2007 Classic)

Debo511 Enthusiast

Debo511

Posted
Posted
The method I described is no more complex than installing a fuse tap. In fact, you will need to make as many (or more) crimps with a fuse tap than by using the SEO plug. There is also a ground pin in the SEO connector, so both wires could be run to the same place, with no drilling into the body. The MBEC is also located about the same distance from the radio in the drivers side floorboard as the in-cab fuse box is. Why not route the wires there?

 

A fuse tap does look half assed and rigged. You suggested he wrap bare wire around the leg of a fuse. What do you suppose we call that? It sure as hell aint professional looking or the most reliable way. I think what I suggested is rather easy. If I wanted to make things somewhat complicated, I would suggest he go as far as soldering his connections, using heatshrink tubing, ect. I am guessing he is going to use scotch-loc connectors and buttsplices to connect everything, which is also a lazy way to wire things. I'm not a pro at soldering connections, but I've gotten pretty good with a little practice. If you want your install to look somewhat factory and be reliable and safe (as he did say he doesn't want to burn his truck down), I would suggest doing it my way. Call it what you want, but tapping a fuse like that is half assed to me.

 

"Thank you very much" :P

 

 

X2

jdubya Enthusiast

jdubya

Posted
Posted
The method I described is no more complex than installing a fuse tap. In fact, you will need to make as many (or more) crimps with a fuse tap than by using the SEO plug. There is also a ground pin in the SEO connector, so both wires could be run to the same place, with no drilling into the body. The MBEC is also located about the same distance from the radio in the drivers side floorboard as the in-cab fuse box is. Why not route the wires there?

 

A fuse tap does look half assed and rigged. You suggested he wrap bare wire around the leg of a fuse. What do you suppose we call that? It sure as hell aint professional looking or the most reliable way. I think what I suggested is rather easy. If I wanted to make things somewhat complicated, I would suggest he go as far as soldering his connections, using heatshrink tubing, ect. I am guessing he is going to use scotch-loc connectors and buttsplices to connect everything, which is also a lazy way to wire things. I'm not a pro at soldering connections, but I've gotten pretty good with a little practice. If you want your install to look somewhat factory and be reliable and safe (as he did say he doesn't want to burn his truck down), I would suggest doing it my way. Call it what you want, but tapping a fuse like that is half assed to me.

 

"Thank you very much" :lol:

:P

 

I would love to see how the OP made out with your suggestion.....

  • 2 weeks later...
cmh2001 Enthusiast

cmh2001

Posted
Posted

This SEO that you guys talk about, is there one in the GMT900? Can anyone get a picture of what it looks like so I can find it?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...