Dash Light Replacement

Beaux Duke · October 21, 2002

Almost all the bulbs have burned out on my 93 S-10 analog instrument panel. My Haynes manual doesn't cover the replacement procedure for my year/model. (Naturally) :angry:

Has anyone removed the instrument panel or does anyone have a factory manual for a 93 S-10?

I tried removing it Saturday but was intimidated by the complexity of the connections on the A/C control module.

Thanks,

Beaux

bowtie_pasta · October 22, 2002

Hmmm...so it isn't just a matter of removing the faceplate, thus allowing access to the bulbs/gauges?

Beaux Duke · October 22, 2002

I don't think it's that easy bowtie...

From my viewpoint it appears I have to remove the headlight switch (easy) on the left and the A/C control (difficult) on the right. Once these two items have been removed I have access to 4 nuts that appear to hold the gauge cluster to the dash. At that point I think I can get it out after detaching the speedometer cable.

Actually I'm hoping someone will tell me that I can get the cluster far enough out to replace the bulbs without disconnecting the A/C control. The A/C control has 2 round retaining rings pressed over 2 studs to hold the vacuum hoses and the cable control in place. I don't think I can remove them without damaging them.

I think that by using a deep socket and an extension I can access the 4 retaining nuts and free the cluster. I'm not sure I'd have enough room to access the bulbs because there's not much "free play" in the cable and vacuum lines so I'd like to know for sure before making the attempt.

Beaux

bowtie_pasta · October 23, 2002

I understand.

Your 93' must be quite a bit different than my 85'. Sorry I can't help ya further. Good luck!

Beaux Duke · November 4, 2002

OK, here's the scoop on instrument cluster removal for a 93 S-10. Mine was analog looking with needles, etc but it was computer controlled. If yours doesn't have needles then I can't guarantee these instructions will work for you.

Before you start make sure you have a telescoping retrieval magnet. $2 at AutoZone. Not necessarily for retreiving stuff you drop but for starting the retaining nuts during reassembly. My hand was too big to reach the stud easily. Also a deep 10 mm socket with 4 to 6 inch extension will be required for removal/installation of the nuts holding the cluster cover to the dash. I used multiple short extensions to get just the length I needed.

Remove the two screws from underneath the light switch and pull the switch out. Disconnect the wiring harness.

Remove the two screws underneath the A/C control unit and pull it out. Disconnect the wiring harnesses. Remove the two metal retaining rings holding the vacuum hoses on the control unit by using a small needle nose pliers and rocking the retaining ring back and forth while gently pushing it off the stud. Gently, I said! Remove the single retaining ring from the cable mounting stud then depress the retaining clip in the back side of the cable mounting slot to allow it's removal from the slot.

Remove 4 of the 6 screws holding the cover plate under the instrument cluster panel. Leave the 2 lower screws in place but loosen them.

Remove the four 10mm nuts holding the instrument cluster cover in place and gently pull it free. These are the nuts where the magnet will be handy during reassembly. Just stick the top of the nut to the magnet and use the magnet to get a couple of turns going.

Remove the four 10mm nuts that are revealed when the instrument cluster cover is removed. (Located on same stud).

At this point the instrument cluster is ready to be removed but it probably won't feel like it. There is no speedometer cable as it is computer controlled. Everything in the instrument cluster is on a printed circuit board and the cluster plugs into a fixed connector mounted behind it.

Pull the top of the cluster towards you. Depress and/or move the studs with your fingers so that the cluster moves easily. TAKE YOUR TIME and go slowly.

Once the top of the cluster is freed the bottom will easily pull out. The connecting socket is located on the bottom left and it may be a little difficult so work slowly but it will eventually release.

Installation is the reverse. Be sure to install the bottom of the cluster first. Also, hand tighten only! Everything is plastic and can easily break so don't try to get it real tight.

The bulbs are in sockets that twist into the back of the instrument cluster and they are expensive! $6.99 at O'Reilly's if they stock them. To save money you can reuse the old sockets if you want.

Carefully remove the old bulbs by rocking them back and forth in the socket until the wires break then pull them out and clean out any hanging or loose wire that might remain.

Take the new bulbs (168 or 194) and relocate the wires from the flat spot on the base of the bulbs to the skinny edge. This will allow the wires to contact the metal strips in the sockets. Push the bulbs into place. You should feel a click as it seats.

Using 2 jumper wires, touch the wires to the round metal tabs on each side of the socket to the positive and negative sides of at least a 6 volt battery to test whether or not the bulbs will light up. You can use a meter to test for continuity but I wanted to see'em light up.

Good Luck!