Jump to content

Aftermarket Warranty Companies


05GMCZ71

Recommended Posts

Posted

For those who purchased extended warranties, what company did you go with, and why? How much did you pay, and how long does it last? What does it cover?

 

There are some older posts regarding aftermarket warranties but I am interested in those who have recently purchased.

Posted

i've had some companys called me well actually blew up my phone daily...everytime i told them i drove some randomly obscure vehicle(amc gremlin, delorean, pinto and so on) until they quit calling...on a side note my bank where my truck is financed threw offers warranties and i've been tempted to see if it is as good as it sounds....

Posted

There is no substitute for a FACTORY backed policy (.)

 

They cost more and they cover more (.)

 

Anybody that says different hasn't been taught the lesson yet :rolleyes: .

Posted

GIECO has what they call Mechanical Break down coverage. The deductible is $250 but it only cost a few $$$ (like $10) every 6 months. I figure $250 is cheaper than a new engine or trans. I believe they offer it on all new policies and of course on new cars/trucks.

 

I had an extended warranty on my S-10 that I purchased thru the dealer and NEVER AGAIN. Nothing seemed to be covered.

Posted

those aftermarket warranties are a scam.... they will try and charge you about $2500 for one, and you will likely never you it. chevy...LIKE A ROCK!

Posted

I have a GMPP warranty on mine. Total will be 2600, I'm paying like 122 a month. It is an additonal 6 years and 100k miles of bumper to bumper with a 100 ded. You can build your package at www.gmppdirect.com

 

I only use GM for an extended warranty. Its just easier to drop it off and pick it up and know that its only 100.

 

I have used some others in the past and they SUCK. You have to call and they have to approve the fix and some will only pay there rate and there time tables so a few dealers have told me take it somewhere else.

 

I only put GM parts on my trucks, kinda anal about that, and I don't want a warranty company have me use a cheap off brand to save them money.

 

The GMPP even covers things like struts, alternators, brake lines, ball joints,etc. Its alot up front but a guy on here just had his BCM replaced for $1200 so its worth it to me.

 

Just my opinon.

Posted

I got the GMPP 7 Yr. / 70k Mi. Major Guard with $100 deductible when I bought my truck. I printed out the best offer I could find on the net, and told them that I'd like them to match that offer - they did. This is my first American vehicle and I was a bit concerned about long-term longevity - especially since I'm expecting to pull some horses, so the GMPP was going to be part of the deal...no matter what. I had an extended warranty on the Toyota RAV4 that my son wound up driving, that just saved us from a $2,100 bill - the entire steering rack had to be replaced at about 55k miles on the odo. Man, was I thankful I had an extended warranty when I asked the service guy what the bill would have been...

 

So yes, I did get the aftermarket warranty. Hopefully, I won't need to ever use it.

 

Marc

Posted
For those who purchased extended warranties, what company did you go with, and why? How much did you pay, and how long does it last? What does it cover?

 

There are some older posts regarding aftermarket warranties but I am interested in those who have recently purchased.

 

I had a GMPP Major Guard plan on my 2005 Sierra that was 6 years or 75,000 miles from the day I bought the extended warranty. I paid $1,350 and it had a $100 deductible per visit, not per item repaired. Same bumper to bumper coverage as it came with from the dealer. Never had any trouble getting things repaired. Very quick and easy for the dealer as well. No required proof as to what caused the issue, etc like some extended warranties. I bought it in 2008 before the 3yr/36K warranty expired. When I sold the truck in January 2011 to get my new Silverado, I got 50% of the original purchase price refunded based on the lesser of miles or period that remained on the warranty.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 504 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...