Long Story...need Help Please

[cbknight]

Here's the cliff notes from the last few weeks. Not sure if all are related but up until this point I had zero problems with this truck. As info, it is a 2007 Z71 1500 Chevrolet. Also, check engine light has been on for about a year. I figured it was the gas cap issue since I believe I had a message about checking gas cap once before it came on. Never had the codes pulled to see if that was. But the rest of the story:

 

About two weeks ago. Went out to leave and battery seemed dead. Wouldnt start. Jumped right off. Battery meter showed charging just above 14.

 

A few days later, same thing but battery not as dead. Tried to start but would barely turn over. Turned ignition off, tried again and it started....barely. Battery meter showed charging just above 14.

 

No issued till a week later. Would have bought a battery but it was doing fine. No issues for a week or so. But went to start after hasn't been ran for about 36 hours and was completely dead. Dead enough the radio presets were gone and check engine light was reset. Jumped it off and ran fine till two days ago. (I was still confused as to why the battery was fine for several days or a week then would be dead or nearly dead). Check engine light comes back on within a day or so.

 

Two days ago I was driving to Dallas. Two hour trip up....no issues. Leaving Dallas on way back home, the alternator/battery gauge drops to about 11-12, down from 14+. It did this for about 20 miles then slowly climbed back to 14+. Ran fine. About an hour later, it does the same thing again. Still ran fine. Got to my home town and pulled into NAPA Auto . By this time the charging was back up to 14+. NAPA Checked alternator and said it was charging at about 14.7. Went to a mechanics shop because right after leaving NAPA, it did the same thing...dropped to about 12. He checked it and said it was still in acceptable range. Also load tested the battery. Said it was fine. I drove home, about 15 minutes, no issues.

 

Yesterday, when I went to start it, I noticed it turned over several times before starting (first time for this ever). But ran fine. Never dropped below 14 on charge. Parked it, went to work. 9 Hours later I tried to start it and it was even slower starting. Turned over fine, just took it about 2 seconds to start. Charging fine and ran fine until I got about half way home (8 of 15 mile trip) and it acted like it was going to die. It went all the way down to idle (about 1000 rpm) and "limped home", 4-20 mph depending if I was uphill or down. I didnt notice whether the screen showed "Reduced Power". I dont think I even looked. It could have, or it may not have. I just dont know. I didnt know it would till I started googling. Anyway, I killed it. Started up fine. Then I killed it to come inside.

 

All help is appreciated.

 

Thank You

 

UPDATE

Put on new battery. Changed oil (just in case it was bad oil filter or something). New air filter.

 

Started it up and drove it to town (15 miles). Ran fine. No issues. Half way home, acted like it was running out of gas. Suddenly and violently. Let off gas. Tried to give gas and spit and sputtered. Eased down on the gas again. Ran 50-60 the remainder of way home. No warning lights. Nothing. Killed it. Started it back up. Sputtered and barely ran. But did idle.....roughly. Any ideas?

[tesnoboy]

Here's the cliff notes from the last few weeks. Not sure if all are related but up until this point I had zero problems with this truck. As info, it is a 2007 Z71 1500 Chevrolet. Also, check engine light has been on for about a year. I figured it was the gas cap issue since I believe I had a message about checking gas cap once before it came on. Never had the codes pulled to see if that was. But the rest of the story:

 

About two weeks ago. Went out to leave and battery seemed dead. Wouldnt start. Jumped right off. Battery meter showed charging just above 14.

 

A few days later, same thing but battery not as dead. Tried to start but would barely turn over. Turned ignition off, tried again and it started....barely. Battery meter showed charging just above 14.

 

No issued till a week later. Would have bought a battery but it was doing fine. No issues for a week or so. But went to start after hasn't been ran for about 36 hours and was completely dead. Dead enough the radio presets were gone and check engine light was reset. Jumped it off and ran fine till two days ago. (I was still confused as to why the battery was fine for several days or a week then would be dead or nearly dead). Check engine light comes back on within a day or so.

 

Two days ago I was driving to Dallas. Two hour trip up....no issues. Leaving Dallas on way back home, the alternator/battery gauge drops to about 11-12, down from 14+. It did this for about 20 miles then slowly climbed back to 14+. Ran fine. About an hour later, it does the same thing again. Still ran fine. Got to my home town and pulled into NAPA Auto . By this time the charging was back up to 14+. NAPA Checked alternator and said it was charging at about 14.7. Went to a mechanics shop because right after leaving NAPA, it did the same thing...dropped to about 12. He checked it and said it was still in acceptable range. Also load tested the battery. Said it was fine. I drove home, about 15 minutes, no issues.

 

Yesterday, when I went to start it, I noticed it turned over several times before starting (first time for this ever). But ran fine. Never dropped below 14 on charge. Parked it, went to work. 9 Hours later I tried to start it and it was even slower starting. Turned over fine, just took it about 2 seconds to start. Charging fine and ran fine until I got about half way home (8 of 15 mile trip) and it acted like it was going to die. It went all the way down to idle (about 1000 rpm) and "limped home", 4-20 mph depending if I was uphill or down. I didnt notice whether the screen showed "Reduced Power". I dont think I even looked. It could have, or it may not have. I just dont know. I didnt know it would till I started googling. Anyway, I killed it. Started up fine. Then I killed it to come inside.

 

All help is appreciated.

 

Thank You

 

UPDATE

Put on new battery. Changed oil (just in case it was bad oil filter or something). New air filter.

 

Started it up and drove it to town (15 miles). Ran fine. No issues. Half way home, acted like it was running out of gas. Suddenly and violently. Let off gas. Tried to give gas and spit and sputtered. Eased down on the gas again. Ran 50-60 the remainder of way home. No warning lights. Nothing. Killed it. Started it back up. Sputtered and barely ran. But did idle.....roughly. Any ideas?

You need to have somebody with a Tech 2 or similar scanner try to get the codes and history to see what that original light was on for. You should NEVER leave a check engine light on for that long! Hopefully you haven't done any irreparable expensive damage.

[ujtruck]

you must pull your codes, if you don't have scanner - find someone who can do that for you

 

check following items , see if any good / bad

battery cables

spark plugs / wires - have you ever change them ?

fuel pressure

 

if you have scan-tool you can see misfire counts + O2 sensor status and more

[dewfpo]

The same..... get the codes pulled and check all battery cable connections including starter.

 

DEWFPO

[old-chevy-dude]

2007 Z71 1500 Chevrolet

 

 

voltage will vary from 12.6 to 14.6 this is by design:

 

Subject: Information On Voltmeter Gauge Fluctuation Due To Regulated Voltage Control System And Concerns About Camper/Trailer Battery Charging

 

 

Models: 2005-2009 Cadillac Escalade Models

 

2005-2009 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Silverado Classic, Suburban, Tahoe

 

2005-2009 GMC Sierra, Sierra Classic, Yukon Models

 

 

Voltmeter Fluctuation Condition:

Some customers may comment that the voltmeter is fluctuating between 12 and 14 volts on their full size pickup or utility vehicle. Starting with the 2005 model year, light duty full size pickups and utilities are equipped with a new Regulated Voltage Control (RVC) system. This system reduces the targeted output of the generator to 12.6-13.1 volts when in "Fuel Economy Mode" to improve fuel economy. The generator may exit "Fuel Economy Mode" if additional voltage is required. This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts as opposed to non-regulated systems that usually maintain a more consistent reading of 14 volts. This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and NO repairs should be attempted.

 

Camper/Trailer Battery Charging Concerns:

Some customers may comment that when towing or hauling a camper/trailer, the auxiliary battery for the camper/trailer will not stay charged. In most cases, this concern is blamed on the new RVC system. While the RVC system does reduce the generator's targeted output voltage to 12.6-13.1 volts when in "Fuel Economy Mode", this feature is bypassed if the tow/haul feature is enabled. With the tow/haul feature enabled, the RVC system will stay in "Charge Mode" and the targeted generator output voltage will be 13.9-15.5 volts, depending on the battery state of charge and the estimated battery temperature. To keep the generator in the "Charge Mode", use either of the following two methods.

 

• The first method is to use the tow/haul mode when towing or hauling a camper or trailer.

 

• The second method is to turn on the headlights, which will increase the generator's targeted output voltage to 13.9-14.5 volts.

[fraiolib]

most all autoparts stores pull codes for free.... y would u not...

[cbknight]

you must pull your codes, if you don't have scanner - find someone who can do that for you

 

check following items , see if any good / bad

battery cables

spark plugs / wires - have you ever change them ?

fuel pressure

 

if you have scan-tool you can see misfire counts + O2 sensor status and more

 

I tried to have the codes pulled but I had a fuse blown and had to figure out which one it was. I will get the codes pulled this morning if I can get it to town. I will check all the other before I leave and post. I have no idea how to check the fuel pressure. And just visually inspect the plugs and wires?

[cbknight]

The same..... get the codes pulled and check all battery cable connections including starter.

 

DEWFPO

 

Ok..fixing to go check connections now.

[cbknight]

OK...thanks. That rules that out. I guess I just didn't pay attention before as much as I should. Thanks.

 

2007 Z71 1500 Chevrolet

 

 

voltage will vary from 12.6 to 14.6 this is by design:

 

Subject: Information On Voltmeter Gauge Fluctuation Due To Regulated Voltage Control System And Concerns About Camper/Trailer Battery Charging

 

 

Models: 2005-2009 Cadillac Escalade Models

 

2005-2009 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Silverado Classic, Suburban, Tahoe

 

2005-2009 GMC Sierra, Sierra Classic, Yukon Models

 

 

Voltmeter Fluctuation Condition:

Some customers may comment that the voltmeter is fluctuating between 12 and 14 volts on their full size pickup or utility vehicle. Starting with the 2005 model year, light duty full size pickups and utilities are equipped with a new Regulated Voltage Control (RVC) system. This system reduces the targeted output of the generator to 12.6-13.1 volts when in "Fuel Economy Mode" to improve fuel economy. The generator may exit "Fuel Economy Mode" if additional voltage is required. This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts as opposed to non-regulated systems that usually maintain a more consistent reading of 14 volts. This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and NO repairs should be attempted.

 

Camper/Trailer Battery Charging Concerns:

Some customers may comment that when towing or hauling a camper/trailer, the auxiliary battery for the camper/trailer will not stay charged. In most cases, this concern is blamed on the new RVC system. While the RVC system does reduce the generator's targeted output voltage to 12.6-13.1 volts when in "Fuel Economy Mode", this feature is bypassed if the tow/haul feature is enabled. With the tow/haul feature enabled, the RVC system will stay in "Charge Mode" and the targeted generator output voltage will be 13.9-15.5 volts, depending on the battery state of charge and the estimated battery temperature. To keep the generator in the "Charge Mode", use either of the following two methods.

 

• The first method is to use the tow/haul mode when towing or hauling a camper or trailer.

 

• The second method is to turn on the headlights, which will increase the generator's targeted output voltage to 13.9-14.5 volts.

 

 

[cbknight]

most all autoparts stores pull codes for free.... y would u not...

 

I tried, but I had a fuse blown. Couldnt find which fuse it was. But with the help of this forum I found that the fuse for the diagnostics port was the same as the aux cig lighter that had blown.

[cbknight]

Pulled the codes and they showed to be two 02 Sensor codes, one gas cap code, and two running lean codes. This morning it made it to town but barely and while I was at autoparts store getting the codes pulled, it died. Wouldnt start back up. Had a mechanic come by and test the fuel pressure and it was at 80psi. After towing, parts and labor.....looking at $700.

[nickvrebel]

$700 for what? That pressure is is good on the fuel line. I'm guessing you are getting new o2 sensors and perhaps he's going to sell you a fuel injection cleaning service at the same time?

[tesnoboy]

$700?! Wow! Sounds like you definitely need new O2 sensors. There are 4 of them. Is that what he charged so much for? You might even have a bad CAT or CATS. There are 2 of them. Left and right bank also. How many miles on this truck?

[cbknight]

$700?! Wow! Sounds like you definitely need new O2 sensors. There are 4 of them. Is that what he charged so much for? You might even have a bad CAT or CATS. There are 2 of them. Left and right bank also. How many miles on this truck?

 

400 for fuel pump. 200 for labor. 100 for towing.

 

Fuel pump is what he said it was. I had called the dealership and they said fuel pump also, the codes were P0171 174 494 and I cant remember the others. They are on a piece of paper in the truck.

 

He said the fuel pressure should be 275-300psi at each injector?????? Thats what he said. NO CLUE if that is right. He said the injectors wouldnt even open up till you have around 175psi.

 

103,000 miles

 

Also, On the fitting on the fuel line going to the injectors (I dont know what its called, but its the aluminum bar running across the heads to the injectors) I pressed the stem and it sprayed gas out for maybe 3 seconds. We pressed it while cranking the engine over and nothing would come out after that.

 

EDIT----The other code I couldnt remember was a random misfiring code

[tesnoboy]

$700?! Wow! Sounds like you definitely need new O2 sensors. There are 4 of them. Is that what he charged so much for? You might even have a bad CAT or CATS. There are 2 of them. Left and right bank also. How many miles on this truck?

 

400 for fuel pump. 200 for labor. 100 for towing.

 

Fuel pump is what he said it was. I had called the dealership and they said fuel pump also, the codes were P0171 174 494 and I cant remember the others. They are on a piece of paper in the truck.

 

He said the fuel pressure should be 275-300psi at each injector?????? Thats what he said. NO CLUE if that is right. He said the injectors would wont even open up till you have around 175psi.

 

103,000 miles

 

Also, On the fitting on the fuel line going to the injectors (I dont know what its called, but its the aluminum bar running across the heads to the injectors) I pressed the stem and it sprayed gas out for maybe 3 seconds. We pressed it while cranking the engine over and nothing would come out after that.

 

 

I see, well that explains a few things. The fuel pump caused all the other codes because of low pressure. That is the fuel rail you are talking about. Hopefully this solves all your problems. Good luck!