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'11 Silverado--totally Dead, Had To Be Jumped?

johnnyz71

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johnnyz71 Enthusiast

johnnyz71

Posted
Posted

I came out of work today and my truck was totally dead--no dome lights, wouldn't even make a struggling sound when starting. I know that no lights were on, my truck has a stock electronic system (no aftermarket stereo, etc) & nothing was plugged in (car charger, gps, etc). I had to have someone from work jump it and it started right up. Has anyone seen this on a new truck? I got it from the dealer brand new, it is 8 months old and has 7400 miles on it. What could it be? Just aggravated that my battery was totally dead and I can't figure out why.

Austin83 Enthusiast

Austin83

Posted
Posted
I came out of work today and my truck was totally dead--no dome lights, wouldn't even make a struggling sound when starting. I know that no lights were on, my truck has a stock electronic system (no aftermarket stereo, etc) & nothing was plugged in (car charger, gps, etc). I had to have someone from work jump it and it started right up. Has anyone seen this on a new truck? I got it from the dealer brand new, it is 8 months old and has 7400 miles on it. What could it be? Just aggravated that my battery was totally dead and I can't figure out why.

 

 

Check the date on the battery. If the battery is already shot then I'd talk to the dealership to see how much they will give you for it since it obviously did not last as long as it should. I have no idea if the dealership would even do anything, but that's what I would do.

redvett Senior Enthusiast

redvett

Posted
Posted

Covered under the 3 year 36000 mile bumper to bumper warranty. This may be an issue with a module PCM,BCM,TCM drawing current and pulling the battery down. Wait until i does it again and have it towed to the dealership.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

Hopefully it is just a bad battery. If not, if could get ugly, as there could be some hard to detect parasitic draw. Typically AC Delco batteries are excellent - mine was still good after 4 years in hot and humid Florida, even after sitting for weeks in my garage without running the truck. Who knows, maybe GM is now using a different battery source? Lower quality batteries?

 

I had a problem with my boat (302 EFI V8 Ford) where my battery would get discharged through a defective alternator (probably bad diodes inside). I had the alternator bench tested and was told it was charging fine. Still, I could not find any current draw, so I replaced the laternator, and problem solved - no more current draw and now the battery stay charged even after several months of sitting. Before it would totally run down in a day or two.

old-chevy-dude Senior Enthusiast

old-chevy-dude

Posted
Posted

ummm.. I think there is a conspiracy afoot.

 

 

my 2010 did the same thing today no start, no juice.. but I didn't need a jump, just disconnect and reconnect the batteries..

 

 

this morning I started it with the remote start, no problem, got in turned the key it died..

 

I thought, ok maybe I hit the last second of the 10 minute window and it died before the key cycle..

 

turned the key and it started, but the gauge cluster and radio were dead.. restarted it several times to no avail.

 

 

drove to work, called dealer to make an appointment, went to lunch everything worked, came out of the restaurant and it wouldn't start, completely dead.

 

 

went back in called AAA came back out, fired up no problem.. only now no XM radio, but everything else works.

 

 

 

pulled the battery cables on both batteries and waited about 5 min, hooked everything up and everything is back, only now my temp is stuck on 55° and Compass stuck on South.

jandersinc Enthusiast

jandersinc

Posted
Posted

There has to be a conspiracy. My 2010 Yukon was dead last week. Never had a problem with it, it sat for a week (normal for it to sit for a week or two at a time, never a problem) got in and nothing. No dome lights, nothing at all. Jumped it, drove it around for 30 minutes, turned it off, started it up no problem.

 

Nothing was plugged in, no lights on, nothing different from the norm.

 

Have driven it since and no problem at all.

700 sportsman Senior Enthusiast

700 sportsman

Posted
Posted

It is a known problem, but with no precise solution. There have been "solutions" consisting of a bad ground connection, arcing on the mega fuse on the firewall, bad cells in the battery (no current draw issues just flat out bad), or poor connection of the terminals on the leads (hot and ground) at the battery. This is what I would believe was the issue with my dad's truck which had the same issues as described. We inspected the mega fuse with no problems there, cleaned and soldered all all ground leads to the block and frame, reseated the main fuse block under the hood, and after the above were done in one shot it was fine for a couple months and then it acted up again and he jiggled the positive and negative leads at the battery and things were back to normal. After some further inspection the wires appeared to have a somewhat poor crimp in the terminal so we removed the factory terminals and soldered on some replacement terminals. That was about a year ago and knock on wood it has been fine ever since.

 

So just do some searching around and you'll see it is a somewhat widespread issue over several model years.

old-chevy-dude Senior Enthusiast

old-chevy-dude

Posted
Posted
It is a known problem, but with no precise solution. There have been "solutions" consisting of a bad ground connection, arcing on the mega fuse on the firewall, bad cells in the battery (no current draw issues just flat out bad), or poor connection of the terminals on the leads (hot and ground) at the battery. This is what I would believe was the issue with my dad's truck which had the same issues as described. We inspected the mega fuse with no problems there, cleaned and soldered all all ground leads to the block and frame, reseated the main fuse block under the hood, and after the above were done in one shot it was fine for a couple months and then it acted up again and he jiggled the positive and negative leads at the battery and things were back to normal. After some further inspection the wires appeared to have a somewhat poor crimp in the terminal so we removed the factory terminals and soldered on some replacement terminals. That was about a year ago and knock on wood it has been fine ever since.

 

So just do some searching around and you'll see it is a somewhat widespread issue over several model years.

 

 

i'd buy that except.

 

I have dual Yellow Top batteries, and upgraded all the factory wiring for my winch. so bad factory connections don't apply..

 

 

I think in the OPs case it might be true, in mine it appears to be a compooper problem...

Rockweiler Enthusiast

Rockweiler

Posted
Posted

I had a very similar problem a couple months ago with my 2010 Silverado.

 

The problem started off one morning with my truck being completely dead in my driveway; I couldn't figure out why either as I hadn't left anything on. I got a boost and drove to work with no issues whatsoever (between me letting it run in my driveway for a while to charge the battery and the actual drive to work, it had been running for 30-40 minutes). As soon as I parked the truck at work and pulled the key from the ignition, the truck died immediately. I went into the office to call my dealer and the woman I spoke to advised that I have it towed (under warranty) rather than boosting it again so as not to reset any codes that would have been thrown. I had no problem with that, but my truck was not in a position that a tow truck could not get to it so I went out to the parking lot to move it manually with a buddy from work into a place where a truck could get at it and when I opened the door the domelight came on. When I saw the light on I tried to start it and it fired up instantly.

 

I was dumbfounded.

 

I had it towed to the dealership and after keeping it overnight and not being able to recreate the problem I brought it home the next day with no solution. A couple weeks later the same thing happened again so I brought it back into the dealership and told them I didn't want it back until they had a cause and a solution. After a couple hours at the dealership and a complete electrical troubleshoot, I was told that they finally found out what was causing the problem.. apparently there was some type of rubber washer on of the terminals of the battery. This washer was causing the battery cables to temporarily lose connection, probably while driving (over bumps, starts and stops, etc), causing the battery drain. This explained the odd situation where the battery would be dead at one time and start the next since it was only temporarily losing connection (i.e. it comes off on one bump but could be bumped back on after the next).

 

In any event, this happened a couple of months ago and since they removed the rubber washer from the terminal I haven't had any problems whatsoever.

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